1. The Ultimate Question… on Paper 2!!
Hair Care Products
The Ultimate Question… on Paper 2!!
Bernice Ridley
SCS Summer School 2017

2. Hair Care Products What do you know? What should you know?
Where is the information?
Question Examples
Group Work

3. Non-aerosol Hair Spray
Hair Care Products
What do you know?
What are the types of hair care products you need to know about?
Conditioner
Permanent Hair Dye
Hair Mousse
Perm
Shampoo
Temporary Hair Dye
Blow Dry Lotion
UV Protectant
Heat Protectant
Hair Gel
Hair Serum
Non-aerosol Hair Spray
Straightener
Aerosol Hairspray
Relaxer
Others?

4. Hair Care Products What do you know?
Can we put these hair care products into different categories?
Perm
Hair Serum
Permanent Hair Dye
Straightener
Temporary Hair Dye
Relaxer
Hair Gel
Heat Protectant
Conditioner
Shampoo
Hair Mousse
Non-aerosol Hair Spray
UV Protectant
Blow Dry Lotion
Aerosol Hairspray
Products that Cleanse
Products that Protect
Products that Temporarily Change the Hair
Products that “Permanently” Change the Hair
But some hair care products can fit in more than one category

5. Hair Care Products What should you know?
As a cosmetic scientist you should understand:
The purpose of a cosmetic product (function of product)
The types of ingredients that go in the product and why (function of ingredients)
The approximate levels of ingredients in a formulation (“frame formulation”)
How the product works on the hair
How you test how well it works
How safe is the product
What regulations apply for this product

6. Hair Care Products Where is the information?
Module 2 Unit 15 – Hair Products
Module 1 Unit 12 – Hair Structure
Module 1 Unit 8 – Surfactants
Module 1 Unit 10 – Emulsions
Module 1 Unit 7 – Oils, Fats and Waxes
Module 1 Unit 9 – Gums, Thickeners and Resins
Module 3 Unit 21 – Product Stability
Module 3 Unit 22 – Aerosols
Module 4 Unit 24 – Cosmetic Regulation
Module 4 Unit 25 – Product Evaluation
Module 4 Unit 27 – Product Safety
Module 4 Unit 29 – Claim Support
Module 4 Unit 31 – Product Development
+ Reference texts

7. Hair Care Products Question Examples Paper II Q8 2011
a) What are the primary functions of a shampoo and what factors affect the choice of ingredients that are used? (5 marks)
b) Outline a typical shampoo formulation for normal hair and describe the function of each of the ingredients. How would the formulation change if this was a product aimed for use on babies? (15 marks)
c) How would you assess the efficacy of the products? (5 marks)

8. Hair Care Products Mark Scheme Paper II Q8 2011
Function is to clean the hair and scalp. Factors include reference to cleaning at low temperatures, little skin and eye irritancy, safe ingredients, stable foam, easily rinseable foam, correct pH to minimise damage to hair, correct viscosity for stabilisation, storage and use, compatibility with other actives such as cationic polymers or silicones, milder products for recent use (1 mark per point, should include some reference to irritancy and foaming)

9. Hair Care Products Shampoo for Normal Hair Ingredient/ Function %
Notes
Water (solvent)
To 100
Primary surfactant (SLES, SLS…..)
5 – 15% active
Total active surfactant content 8 – 20%
Secondary surfactant (CAB…)
2 – 6% active
Foam booster (non-ionics, PEG Castor Oil, amine oxides etc.)
0.5 – 5.0% active
Preservative
0.1 – 1%
Humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol etc.)
1 – 5%
Citric acid
to pH 6 – 6.5
Chelating agent
~0.02%
Fragrance
0.1 – 0.5%
Conditioning Agent (PQ-10, Cat Guar, PQ7, protein derivatives, silicones)
0.5 – 2%
Botanical ingredients
Viscosity regulator (typically salt, also anionic/ non-ionic rheology modifiers)
0.5 – 5%
Pearling agent
Colours qs

10. Hair Care Products Mark Scheme
(1 mark per ingredient, function and typical levels up to maximum 10. Lose marks for no surfactants/ active levels too low/ high)
Baby shampoo uses surfactants to minimise eye, scalp and skin irritation, often based on non- ionics and amphoterics, active level may be lower, fragrance/ colour levels may be lower, pH will be more neutral to minimise eye irritation Formulation can be included or differences described (5 marks)
c) Reference to lather testing/ foam stability testing, ease of rinsing, ease of combing, sensorial testing on hair (feel, shine, manageability, body), stability of formulation, safety testing, testing can be on swatches, half head or consumer trials where appropriate (1 mark per test, 1 mark for more details up to max 5 marks)

11. Hair Care Products Question Examples Paper II Q8 2012
Answer all parts:-
Describe a frame formulation for a crème conditioner and describe the function of each of the ingredients (10 marks)
How would you evaluate the effect of conditioning agents on the hair? (10marks)

12. Hair Care Products Mark Scheme Paper II Q8 2012
Definition of requirements from a conditioner, including, soft, easy to manage, temporary repair of hair damage, improvements in gloss, volume…
Differences between rinse-off and leave-on; references to greasy, limp feel caused by oils, silicones and highly substantive quats, need to improve drying time for hair coated by leave-on products by e.g. including alcohol, Frame formulations should show some consideration of differences between the conditioner types, . Marks will be given for type of ingredient, example and function within the formulation. Same formulation would work for both if explained well, also consideration that consumer may use both product types.
Reference to particular claims that can be made for conditioners (substantivity, sensorial, volume, hair breakage etc.) and ways this can be tested, from hair swatches through to panel studies and home use trials

13. Hair Care Products Question Examples Paper II Q8 2013
Answer all parts:-
What are the key attributes of a formulation designed to chemically straighten hair? (5 marks)
What is the difference between a standard and a “no-lye” relaxer? (3 marks)
Provide a suitable frame formulation for a hair relaxer to be used in tropical climates (10 marks)
How would you evaluate the effect the hair relaxer? (4marks)
What warnings should be on the packaging for this product? (3 marks)

14. Hair Care Products Mark Scheme Paper II Q8 2013
a) Effective hair straightening effect, without using dangerous levels of chemicals
- Contain sufficient oils/ emollients to help protect the scalp against irritation
- Be stable at 45°C (especially for use in hot countries)
- Be easy to apply and use without running into the eyes
- Not cause excessive damage to the hair, scalp or hands
Be correctly labelled for the required use (salon or home use)
b) A standard or “lye” relaxer contains sodium or potassium hydroxide; “no lye” relaxers are based on lithium hydroxide guanidine hydroxide, (in practice calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate premixed just before use)

15. Hair Care Products Standard / Lye Relaxer Ingredients % Function
No Lye Relaxer
Sodium/ Potassium Hydroxide
~ 2%
Active Ingredient
Part A - Fatty alcohols/waxes/ petrolatum
10 – 50%
Conditioners/ protectants/ thickeners
Fatty alcohols/waxes/ petrolatum
Other Oils/ emollients
5 – 10%
Conditioners/ Shine
Emulsifiers
1 – 5%
Stabilise product
Calcium Hydroxide
~2%
Active Ingredient precursor
Water
to 100
Solvent
Conditioning Polymers
Conditioner
Fragrance/ preservative/ colour qs
Part B Water
To 100
Guanidine Carbonate
~25%
Active ingredient precursor
Gum (Xanthan)
0.1 – 0.5
Thickener

16. Hair Care Products Mark Scheme
d) Reference to safety tests, efficacy tests on intended hair type, stability tests at 45°C and 20°C above normal storage temperatures, using trained hairdressers to test and evaluate for scalp damage
e) Can include:
Avoid contact with eyes/ Can cause blindness/ If relaxer gets into eyes, immediately rinse out thoroughly and obtain medical assistance/ Contains alkali/
Keep out of reach of children/ Use only as directed/ if accidentally swallowed, obtain medical assistance immediately/ if relaxer causes skin or scaly irritation, rinse immediately and obtain medical assistance / Wear gloves when applying relaxer cream/ do not use if scalp is irritated or injured/ do not use on bleached or chemically treated hair

17. Hair Care Products Group Work
In your groups write out revision notes for one of the categories of hair care products chosen at random from the bag of stars that include
Function of the Product
Frame Formulation of the Product
How you would test the Product
Discuss in your Group (30 mins) and present to the others (5 mins)

18. Hair Care Products
Thank you for your attention and good luck with your exams (and the last essay!)
Any questions?