Tailoring

History of Tailoring: Reconstructing the human body in fabric Greek & Roman ages people draped fabric over their bodies Middle ages: clothing was a means to conceal the body –Loose robe was shortened and tightened & eventually cut pieced and sewn together to contour to human form –Birth of tailoring Renaissance: clothing a means to accent the body Tailoring grew among the aristocrats of Europe and peaked during Louis XIV ( )

History of Tailoring Cont… In the 18 th century English moved away from French style (highly decorated) to a more practical style –Somber & serious style –Distinctions between royalty and commoners disappeared by 19 th century –Modern Tailoring born in the Industrial revolution that emphasized practicality, functionality, and fit Today there is still a need for unique and individually designed clothing

Definition of Tailoring A process by which the garment design lines are defined and the garment is given a permanent shape and structure of its own. Design lines such as collars and lapels are defined by sharp edges and all the lines within the garment should be smoothly curved or perfectly straight.

Types of Tailoring Traditional- hand sewing Contemporary- techniques that incorporate new materials like fusibles or replacement of hand stitching with machine stitching. Custom Tailoring- making a garment for a specific individual

Types of Tailored Garments Hard Tailored Garment: –Stiff fabric –Very crisp –Formed details –Built in shaping Soft Tailored Garments: –Soft fabrics –Subtle shaping –Not as rigid –Details are crisp –More feminine

Tailoring Concepts 1.Compatibility Design with wearer Money with time Garment with ability 2.Fitting: all patterns need adjusting to your size 3.Stabilizing: keeping fabric from stretching and changing shape. 1.Underlining- sewn as one with fabric 2.Interfacing-stabilizes 3.Cotton tape- stabilizes seams 4.Interlining- for warmth. Fabric is placed between lining and outside like batting. 5.Lining- allows garments to be put on easier 4.Shaping patterns into 3-D: shaping is cutting fabric putting two pieces together and steaming & pressing them.

Tailoring Concepts Cont… 5.Reducing Bulk Trimming: cutting a seam at the same width- trimming both seam allowances together Beveling edges: cutting the seam allowances inside faced edges by angling the shears; this rounds the seam edges Clipping: the process of slitting seam allowances up to the seam on curves. Better than notches because notches weaken the seam. Grading: cutting the seam allowances at different widths to reduce bulk Pressing & steaming: putting pressure and steam on fabric with an iron to form a sharp edge or flat seam Pounding: used for shaping wool Under stitching: a row of stitching placed close to the edge of any facing; done before grading and beveling Top stitching: stitching on the right side of the fabric in rows of decorative stitching

Garment Life Expectancy Swimsuits 2 years Wool Blazer 4 years Underwear 1 year Cotton Suits 2 years Uniforms 1 year Dresses 5 years High fashion evening wear 3 years or less

Price vs. Perceived Quality Price greater than perceived quality (overpriced) Price less than perceived quality (under priced) Coat worn 50 times $4 per wear $200(price) Dress worn 3 times $50 per wear $150 (price) Jeans worn 300 times $.17 per wear $50 (price) =