Waves and Coastal Interactions Stan Piotrowski. What is a wave?

Slides:

Advertisements

Similar presentations

Coastal Processes.

Advertisements

Waves Anatomy of wave – Wave- transmission of energy through matter – Longitudinal wave- matter oscillates in same direction of energy transmission –

How Waves Form When you watch the surfer's wave crash onto the beach, you are seeing the last step in the process of the wave's development. The process.

Chapter 21 Section 2.

Wave Action Chap 11, Sec 2. Essential Questions (Chap 11, Sec 2) 1. How does a wave form? 2. How do waves change near the shore? 3. How do waves affect.

Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course web site. Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course.

Ocean Waves Text Book Page #

Coastal Processes and Landforms Erosional and depositional landforms of coastal areas are the result of the action of ocean waves. Erosional LandformsDepositional.

The Dynamic Ocean Chapter 16.

Waves Oceanography Notes. Anatomy of a Wave Wave height :vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough Amplitude: equal to one-half the wave.

Lecture 5 Waves and Currents. Formation of Waves.

Oceans Ocean Topography Physical Structure of the Ocean.

Waves. Wave Terminology H = Height A = Amplitude = 1/2H L = λ = Wave Length ( distance 2 consecutive crests) T = Wave Period (Time between 2 consecutive.

Coastlines. Beaches and Coasts The coastal zone and beaches along the continental margin are among the most dynamic geologic setting on earth Human settlements.

Chapter 8 Waves and Water Dynamics

Ocean Waves wave a periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid, or gas as energy is transmitted through a medium two basic parts—a crest and a trough.

Waves and Tides. Anatomy of a wave Wave- the transmission of energy through matter When energy moves through matter as a wave, the matter moves back and.

Wind Waves…. Presented by: Saira Hashmi Nov 18 th, 2005 EPS 131 Introduction to Physical Oceanography.

Chapter 21 Section 2 Handout

Waves n Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water Waves.

Waves Chapter 14 Section 3 By Caroline Hollar, Hannah Greenwald, Annie Klopp, and Shannon Consolo.

Anatomy of a Wave A wave is the motion of a form that carries energy from one place to another The form is what moves, the material that the wave moves.

Lecture Outlines Physical Geology, 14/e Copyright © The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. Permission required for reproduction or display. Plummer, Carlson &

THE OCEANS 71% of the Earth’s surface is covered by oceans and seas water in the oceans formed by outgassing of volcanoes.

Movements of the Oceans

N Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves n Deep Water Waves n Shallow Water Waves n Other Water Waves.

Tides, Waves, & Currents Manifestation of the Moon’s and Sun’s force of the gravity acting on the Earth hydrosphere Shallow water waves affecting the World’s.

Waves and things. Homework Due Tuesday Read Pages Answer in complete sentences What causes the Coriolis effect? How does the Coriolis effect wind.

The Story Of Waves Waves Caused by: Wind Wind Earthquakes Earthquakes Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun. Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun.

Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves

2005 Tropical Storms Storm tracks generally fall into three categories: 1) Atlantic U-turns 2) Gulf coast strikers 3) East coast skirters

 Ocean Waves Nov. 22, 2013 CGF3M.  Along the shores of oceans and lakes, waves break against the land, tearing it down in some places and building it.

Unit 3: Waves and tides.

Unit 3 – Oceanography Section 3: Currents, Waves, and Tides

Chapter 21- 2,3 OCEAN WAVES. Wave  Disturbance of energy transmitted through a medium  Medium- solid- liquid-gas  Crest-highest point in a wave  Trough-lowest.

Beaches. Beach Profile A beach environment consists of several zones.

Topic 5 Waves and Wave Depths If the wind blows hard enough (speed) and long enough (duration) over a long enough area (fetch), waves become fully developed.

Waves. Pre-Survey Draw your best wave. How do waves form? How can they be good? Bad?

WAVES. Wave – propagation of energy through a medium. Speed is determined by the properties of the medium. Gravity waves – sufficiently large waves where.

Waves and Water Dynamics

Waves. What is a wave?  a transmission of energy through matter.

WAVES. WAVES ARE WAVES, BUT WE WILL TALK ABOUT THEM AS TWO TYPES 1.Waves away from shore. a.These waves aren’t interacting with the bottom. b.What you.

Coastal Water Movement  Most waves are created by wind.  The size & energy of a wave is influenced by:  How long the wind has been blowing  The strength.

Unit 7 Waves & Beaches.

Unit 7 Waves and Beaches Topic 1 Watching Waves.

WAVES UNDULATIONS OF THE WATER CAUSED BY WINDS BLOWING ACROSS THE SURFACE OF THE SEA. They consist of orbital movements of water molecules which diminishes.

Section 13 – 1 Wave Action.

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Unit 7 Topic 5 Waves and Wave Depths

Waves and the Shore.

Chapter 14 Section 3 Waves Bellringer

Unit 7 Waves & Beaches.

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Ocean Waves – Size Small waves called ripples.

Waves, Tides, and Currents

Waves in the Sea An ocean wave is a rhythmic rise and fall of the water’s surface. Most commonly produced by wind. Also by undersea earthquakes and the.

Wave Dynamics And Wind Waves

The Movement of Ocean Water

Parts of a Wave Defined:

Unit 7 Waves & Beaches.

WAVES The motion of the ocean

Ocean Motions Chapter 13.

Presentation transcript:

Waves and Coastal Interactions Stan Piotrowski

What is a wave?

Types of Waves Type of wave produced is dependent on the type of swell, wind direction, slope of sea bed, and bathymetric features (canyons, ridges) Groundswell- far off coast Wind swell- formed from local winds (choppy) Offshore/Onshore winds Deep water waves- h/λ > 1/4 Shallow water waves- 1/20 > h/λ

Winds Generate waves – wind speed, duration, and fetch Onshore – blow over wave crests, causing them to break in a rough froth Offshore – push the face of the wave up, generally steepen waves

Why do waves break? Shoaling- amplitude increases, wavelength remains constant Deep water waves- break when wave steepness exceeds 0.17– H > 0.17λ Shallow water waves- individual waves break when their wave height H is larger than 0.8 times the water depth (h)– H > 0.8h

Types of Breaking Waves Spilling Plunging Surging Iribarren Number (surf familiarity parameter) Breaker Depth Index

Spilling Breakers ξ < 0.5 Gently sloping coasts where waves break slowly and over a long distance Relatively gentle waves

Plunging Breakers 0.5 < ξ < 3.3 Steeper coastlines Form on reefs or sandbars Wave face becomes vertical, then drops onto the trough, releasing most of its energy at once Tube/Closeout

Teahupoo No “back” of the wave Parts of the reef are only 20 inches deep Depths plummet to 1,000 feet 1/3 mile offshore

Surging Breakers ξ < 0.5 Rapid drop offs – no shoaling zone

Longshore Currents Currents running parallel to the shoreline Occur most often when waves approach shoreline at an angle Larger waves – faster currents Strongest currents generated on gently sloping beaches

Rip Currents Strong seaward flowing channel Typically flow at 1-2 ft/s, and can be as fast as 8 ft/s Wave set-up Generally only temporary, but can persist for long periods of time due to man-made structures

Wave Power Single buoy can generate enough electricity to power 40 homes in NJ Future wave power station in Oregon, comprised of 10 buoys, will generate 1.5 megawatts – enough electricity to power about 1,000 homes

Sources