Facial and body cosmetic massage Dr. Sintija Strautiņa- Strēle, Linda Zeltiņa CIDESCO International Riga School of Cosmetics November 24,2011

Massage Massein (from Greek language) – to press with a hand, to knead. Massage is a measured mechanical effect to a patient’s/client’s body with a therapeutic, cosmetic and relaxing impact.

History Massage is one of the most ancient ways of treatment. Already for ages in various cultures it has been used for strengthening of human physical and mental health. The origins of the most ancient massage can be tracked in China in year 2698 b.c., there were medical schools and schools of gymnastics, where doctors gained the necessary knowledge of massage The basics of contemporary massage were established by Peter Ling ( 1776-1839).

Massage is performed with: hands feet apparatus water special brushes cold stones etc.

Massage is having effect : Physiologically. Massage is having effect to a human body as a mechanic irritant. Psychologically. Major part of the clients perceive massage as a pleasant touch giving a sensual feeling of comfort and relaxation helping to appraise one’s body.

Physiological effect of massage Humoral- mechanically and directly affecting the tissues a formation of histamine, acetilholine and other biologically active substances is favoured Neuro-reflective- mechanical irritation is perceived by the receptor apparatus in skin, muscles, tendons, cords and internal organs transforming the mechanical energy in a buck fever energy. Flow of impulses from afferent nerves reach the cerebral cortices and thereby induces reflector response reactions of the skin, muscles and internal organs. Mechanical- tissues are compressed and moved thereby inducing an acceleration of intercellular fluid, lymph flow and blood circulation.

Completion of Client’s body analysis and assessment sheet Name, surname Date of birth Address, phone number Medicine taken Contraindication: Acute skin diseases High or low blood-pressure Varicose veins Recent operation Pregnancy Heart diseases Epilepsy Diabetes Haematomas Skin bruises

Completion of Client’s body analysis and assessment sheet Occupation Assessment of muscle tonus Posture assessment Skin condition Cellulites Fat deposits Stretch marks Weight, length, body mass index Selection of massage zone- massage performed at a particular area of the body or a massage for the whole body Recommendation for body treatment at home and at the beauty saloon

Constitutional types of the body Ectomorph Mesomorph Endomorph

Celullite Aesthetic, cosmetic defect that visually looks as an “orange peel”- a dimpled appearance of the skin.

Localised areas of cellulite Hips Buttocks Thighs Upper arms Abdomen

Stages of cellulite 1st stage Lymphostasis in subcutaneous adipose tissues. Skin is even, smooth without any changes in color. It takes longer time to heal hematomas and skin bruises. For diagnosing it is recommended to use thermographic films.

Stages of cellulite 2nd stage Chronic lymph stasis, venous stasis. Alterations of skin relief. Dimples are more apparent at muscle tension. When touching, a lower skin temperature is observed.

Stages of cellulite 3rd stage Chronic lymph stasis, venous stasis, a deteriorated microcirculation. Local to a diffuse fibrosis in the subcutaneous fat layer - micronodules, which can be palpated. Skin is dimpled and looks like an “orange peel”. Skin is cold by touch. When pressing on separate thickening areas, one has painful sensations.

Stages of cellulite 4th stage Cellulite is apparant also at relaxed muscles. Micronodules are integrated in macronodules. Due to the microcirculatory disorders, the skin in the areas affected by cellulite is cold with a bluish tone. When pressing, one has painful feelings. Macronodules are also called as cellulite stones.

Posture deviations Scoliosis Lordosis Kyphosis

Indications Preventive measures for all healthy humans! Skin and muscle trophic disturbances Celullite Abatement of oedema Hypertensic, painful muscles Local fat deposits, obesity

Contraindications: Bad overall health condition-heart, kidneys and liver failure, fever, acute respiratory diseases, tonsillitis, sickness, vomiting, Malignant diseases Acute skin diseases Dermal mycosis, furunculosis, nettle-rash, angioneurotic oedema, Lymphadenitis Joint inflammation Thrombophlebitis, thrombosis Blood diseases Chronic osteomyelitis Acute pain Hematoma, acute injuries Acute ulcer stages Uterine hemorrhage Acute gynecological adnexitis Psychic disorders Pregnancy

Topographical anatomy of the back Bones Muscles Blood-vessels, lymph nodes Nerves

Topographical anatomy of the arm Bones Muscles Blood vessels, lymph nodes Nerves

Topographical anatomy of the pelvis and leg Bones Muscles Blood vessels, lymph nodes Nerves

Topographical anatomy of the abdomen Muscles Blood vessels, lymph nodes Nerves Internal organs

Topographical anatomy of the chest Bones Muscles Blood vessels, lymph nodes Nerves Internal organs

Effects of massage To nervous system ( coordinates an integrated activity of all vital functions of the human body): Reduces activity of sympathetic nervous system Reduces fatigue, stress and increases the mental work abilities Improves the transmission of nerve impulse processes. Heart-blood vessel systems: Blood flows from the internal organs to skin and muscles Expand peripheral blood vessels Improve blood supply to tissues and accelerate capillary blood circulation Affect the tissue trophicity processes Facilitate and accelerate venous blood circulation Facilitate heart work and improve blood supply to cardiac muscle Reduce blood pressure and decelerate heart rate

Effects of massage Lymphatic system: Speed of the lymph flow in largest lymphatic vessels is four mm/sec. Through the thoracic duct ( ductus thoracicus) all the lymph flows through only six times in twenty-four-hours Massage empties cells from the end-products of metabolism, reduces lymph stasis and oedema. Muscle system: Affects the blood and lymph flow in muscles Enhances elimination of lactic acid Restores muscle capacity two to four times (the number of active capillaries increases in muscles). In1mm² of the cross- section of muscles there are opened and functioning 1400 of capillaries Increases or reduces muscle tone Most effective are kneading techniques ( petrissage)

Effects of massage Joint and ligament system: Increases elasticity and agility of ligaments Influences blood and lymph flow in bones and joints. Most effectively works with friction. Skin: Purifies the skin from dead horny cells Improves blood supply to tissues, increases skin temperature Affects the venous and lymph flow, decreases oedemas Improves skin and subcutaneous tissue trophicity Enhances the activity of sweat and sebaceous glands

Effects of massage Respiratory system- Reduces the frequency of breathing, Increases the oxygen intake and the carbon dioxide elimination, Improves the blood and lymph flow in respiratory organs and muscles Enhances expectoration Digestive system- Improves small intestine peristalsis, Stimulates blood and lymph flow, thereby improving the absorption of nutrients. Increases secretion of bile Internal organs are most effectively affected by vibration techniques of massage.

Effects of massage Urogenital system- Endocrine system- Increases the elaboration of urine, mineral salts, urea and uric acid. Endocrine system- Improves blood, lymph circulation, activates functional activity of internal secretion glands. Improves self-comfort.

Requirements to cosmetician at performance of massage : Clothes: in a white color, with short sleeves, comfortable, neat, well ironed Hands: manicured, without nail varnish, short nails Hair: clean, not falling onto eyes and face during the procedure Make-up: a light day make-up Footwear: light, comfortable, neat, on a low heal or without, not making noise Bijouterie: no bijouterie( also no wedding ring), an exception can be small earrings) Perfume: no perfume

Hand training

Necessary materials and conditions for performance of massage: Couch Chair Towels of various sizes Towels for compresses/ gloves Movable table Small pallets of various sizes Skin disinfection liquid Skin cleansing lotions (body peeling) Massage creams and oils Body masks, creams and lotions Disposable panties Auxiliary materials- napkins, spatulas, etc.. Clock Temperature at premises may not be lower than 20-22°C. Premises shall be painted in warm tones, filled with pleasant aroma and enjoyable music

Preparation of the client for a massage Client’s analysis and assessment sheet shall be filled in Clothes shall be taken off ( disposable panties) Bijouterie shall be taken off Selection of massage pose For performance of the back massage , hair band shall be used Placement of the massage bolsters, depending of the chosen pose

Placement of massage bolsters When lying on back Massage bolster is placed under the neck curve ( not obligatory) Placed under the knees – straighten out back/neck /waist, hips and knee joint are placed in a physiological position When lying on belly Massage bolster is placed under the feet joints. When massaging the back, the bolster may be placed under the belly. Neck and head massage is performed on a special chair

Preparation of the client for a massage Cleansing of the skin Application of the massage oil or cream

Massage oils and lotions Massage cream Massage oil Talc powder Massage gel

Posture of cosmetician

5 basic techniques/methods of massage Stroking ( effleurage) Friction Kneading( petrissage) Percussion ( tapotement) Vibration

Massage techniques Techniques of classical massage are performed in a prescribed sequence and manner, that are related to the intensity of action and the depth. Stroking- friction- kneading- percussion- vibration

Stroking( effleurage) Hand of the masseur is gliding over the skin without shirring it This is the initial technique of the massage, also performed in between the other techniques and at the end of massage. The emphasis is put on the middle part of the stroking. Stroking Comprehensive Flat Sublimis Deep Simultaneous Alternately Continuous Interrupted

Rules: When performing stroking, palms of the hands should fit tight to the client’s skin There should be no space between the palm and the skin Hands should be relaxed Stroking shall be performed gently, smoothly and slowly in a direction of lymph flow-to the nearest lymph node areas

Effect of the stroking: To get introduced to the client’s body Exfoliation of epidermis Improves blood provision to the skin Improves venous and lymph flow, reduces oedema Relaxes skeleton muscles

Friction A massage technique pushing aside the skin Performed by fingers and palms

Effect of friction : Increases supply of blood and lymph to the massage area- a warming effect Loosening cicatrices Anesthetic Prepares the skin for the other massage techniques Improves the agility of joints

Kneading ( petrissage) Effect on muscles Muscle shall be taken in hands, pressed on, lifted upwards and put in the initial position Longitudinal kneading- longitudinally cross the muscle fibres Cross-kneading – cross over the muscle fibres

Effect of the kneading: Induces muscle hyperemia Enhances elimination of metabolic end-products from muscles- restores muscle performance (reduces acidosis) Improves muscle performance(muscular endurance, strength, elasticity)

Percussion (Tapotement) - Very intense effect, increases blood pressure, improves blood circulation, lymph flow, improves muscle tone Performed with palms of the hands, finger tips Rules: Shall not be applied if muscles are overworked, exhausted and crampy Arm wrists shall be relaxed Shall not be performed on neck, heart area, kidney area, abdomen, spinal cord, joints

Vibration a relaxing effect (reducing muscle tension)

Vibration Vibration possesses a particular reflectory and relaxing efffect Heart rate is slowed down Reflectory effect to internal organs- normalizes the secretory and motor functions of internal organs

Sequence of overall massage Back Backs of the legs Front of the legs Abdomen Chest Arms

Length of massage depends on the scheme of techniques and areas of treatment -20-60-90 minutes. Course of treatment-1-2-3 times a week, treatment course up to 10 visits.

Topographical anatomy of face Bones Muscles Blood vessels, lymph nodes Nerves

Facial skin types Dry Oily Combined Normal

Cosmetic facial classical massage Massage areas: face; neck; decollete area. Massage length: 20 min

Indications: Improvement of micorcirculation; Enhancement of venous flow; Improvement of facial muscles tone; Toning up and correction of facial oval; Smoothing of small, sublime wrinkles; Relaxation of client; Secondary – nutritioning of facial skin, moisturising; Recommended as prophylactic for clients aged 25-30.

Preparation of facial, neck and décolleté area skin : Cleansing of facial, neck and decollete area skin; Application of a hot compress ; Peeling; Application of vaposone steamer prior to massage.

Preconditions to be observed prior and during the massage : Creation of comfortable and pleasant environment during the massage treatment (premises, decorations, pleasant music, lighting, air temperature); Avoidance of discussions with the client during the procedure; Selection of correct and suitable massage oil or cream; Precise observance of Langer’s lines and fixation places; Intensity of massage movements dependence on the skin type and condition

Contraindications: Purulent efflorescence; Dermatitis, eczemas, psoriasis (only with a permission of a physician ); Enlarged lymph nodes; Herpes; Acute respiratory diseases; Recent visit to the dentist; Cerebral commotion(up to 6 months); Dizziness; Dynamic blood circulation disturbances Neo growths on face(oncology); Infectious eye diseases; Allergic reactions to the massage oil or cream.

Basic principles to be observed during a massage Massage shall be performed slowly; Langer’s lines shall be observed; Hands shall not be taken off the face, neck or décolleté area during the massage; Massage movements shall not be applied in the area of thyroid gland; Joining movements that are performed against the Langer’s lines shall be worked in a gentle manner without moving the skin aside; Fixation places are performed in a precise manner; Hand movements are gentle and plastic, fitting close to the face; Time anticipated for the massage shall be observed – 20 minutes ( together with the décolleté area); The applied massage oil or cream shall be enough during all the treatment procedure.

Short summary Massage is among the most ancient medical therapies. For prophylactic purposes, massage is recommended to any healthy individual Massage has an effect on all organ systems of a human body. Classic massage has five basic stroke techniques (four according to alternative classifications). The strokes should be applied in a definite sequence dictated by the intensity and depth of their effect. The duration of a massage depends on the selected combination of techniques, the number of treatment areas and may be 20-60-90 minutes. Recommendable 1-2-3 times per week, up to 10 times in the massage therapy cycle. Classical facial cosmetic massage is applied to the face, neck and decolette area and lasts 20 minutes. The facial massage cycle consists of 15-20 treatments 1-2 times per week; the cycle to be repeated after 2 months. 

Thank you for your attention!