Engine Overhaul Chevy 350

Remove Engine Place engine securely on an engine stand

Remove Accessories Remember to take photos- bag and label the parts and fasteners

Remove Intake and Valve train Components Label the pushrods – this is to identify if you find a bent one later to look at the other parts for that cylinder.

Remover Cylinder Heads The Engine’s Identification Number is Found Here Remove the head bolts in reverse sequence--- Check for damage especially between cylinders

Remove Lifters Rotate the engine – it will pop the lifters up for easy of removal

Ridge Ream Each Cylinder A ridge develops over time and must be removed to allow the piston to be removed

Remove all Ridges Two wrenches opposite of each other give you good control

Remove Oil Pan and Inspect Mark the main and rod caps for reinstallation Use number and Letter sets 1 3 2 4 This is a four-bolt main – Pay attention to the oil pickup screen, look for debris

Remove Gaskets and Scrape Away Crud Wiggle out the oil dipstick tube, it will be damaged if you don’t.

Remove Balancer and Front Cover Loosen the Main Bolts In Reverse Sequence Remove Timing Gears and Chain Toss Them Remove the Harmonic balancer with the proper tool or you will damage it.

Remove Pistons and Main Caps Tap the pistons out with a plastic hammer– tap the mains from front to back to loosen

Remove Crank and Camshaft Knock out the Freeze plugs Clean out water Jacket holes

Remove Camshaft Bearings You need a specific tool for this– clean out all bolt holes with a tap

Clean the Internal Area Especially the oil galleries

Clean Out Lifter Area A long rod tipper with a rag soaked in cleaner works well for areas you can’t get your hand

Inspect Cylinder heads Check everywhere, the heads are very prone to cracks and damage.

Cracks- You Don’t Want To See This

Clean the Heads A power brush works well and inspect head for cracks again, cover and plug the ports and valves if you don’t rebuild the heads. (why wouldn’t you?)

Spring Tool and Valve Tool You will need to measure spring Tension and height

Cylinder Head Disassembly Use a “C” valve tool to remove valves—Keep everything in order

Inspect Valve, Springs, and Rotator

Inspect For Cracks Check Here

Valve Grinding This resurfaces the valve angle

Cut & Check Valve Seat Use Prussian Blue to check the contact between valve and seat

Valve Angles Seat 45 degrees 15 degrees 60 degrees

Clean and Inspect Pistons At times you can reuse pistons, replacing them will improve the rebuild

Clean and Inspect the Entire Engine

Preparation for Painting

Acquire a Rebuild Kit This kit is a Mater rebuild kit complete with the crank rods and pistons. You can get a rebuild kits without these items or smaller camshaft and valve train kits

Paint Heads Cover valve area and block ports

Paint Block Cover internal parts, you don’t need to paint where the oil will be, use high heat paint

Measure, Measure, Measure Measuring throughout the rebuild process will insure you buy the necessary items

Install Camshaft Take care with the cam and it’s bearings when installing. Over lube this as you install.

Install Lifters Lube the lifters heavily

Measure Ring Gap This gap needs to be precise, file the gap to specs

Install and Bolt Main Caps Make sure you line up the oils hole for the bearings You will want to confirm the inside diameter is correct and round

Bolt and Torque Crank Over lube Everything Use Assembly Grease Install Freeze Plugs Use specifications and sequence for this and anything else in engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fit the Ring Protect the rod Use wood in the vise

Lube the Rod Bearings Oil the rings Use engine oil Use assembly grease

Prep Pistons for Installation Align the ring gaps---in thirds

Install Pistons Use a ring Compressing tool Use a plastic hammer handle Install pistons one at a time and torque to specs

Installing Timing Chain Mark the aligning Points with white out And align them for proper gear timing

Clean and Prep the Cylinder Heads Some people send the heads out to be reworked, or buy replacement heads

Bolt and Torque the Heads Use Specs and Sequence Make sure you keep the gaskets aligned

Install Rockers and Pushrods Use plenty of lube, this is the last area that gets oil on startup

Adjust Rockers Arms Adjust the slack out, turn the rod in your fingers and turn adjuster until the rod stops spinning Don’t over do this.

Prepare the Front Cover Check the timing marks again just to make sure. Use a little extra sealer in the corners.

Install Front Cover Lube seal as you place the cover over the crank Use specs

Install Harmonic Balancer Use specs

Prep For Intake Manifold Use a good sealer here to help the intake seal. Take care to keep gasket aligned

Place the Gaskets Use a little extra sealer in the corners Use a good sealer here to help the intake seal. Take care to keep gasket aligned

Install intake and Distributor You can wait for the distributor until later, if so covet the openings in the intake!!!!

Install Oil Pump and Filter You need To adjust The screen. How? Install the oil dipstick

Wires Now or Later

Wire Looms are Important You may wait until exhaust is installed

Install Oil Pan Install a fuel pump also Use a good sealant here Don’t turn engine Over if carb is installed

Install Accessories Carburetor Valve covers Water pump Exhaust manifolds

Engine Storage Bag and oil the engine if you plan to store the engine. Store engine in a place that is dry. You can place it on a wood skid to recover you stand.

Engine Break In Lots of conflicting info out there. Mr. B way. Spin the oil pump shaft with drill and get oil pressure in engine-replace distributor Start engine, spot time the distributor and check for leaks and make adjustments If no problems, run engine at idle for two minutes, the change rpms, two minutes each rpm range. Don’t exceed four thousand rpms for the first five hundred miles. Change oil at 500 miles. Them at 2000

Misc. Make sure you clean and inspect everything through the rebuild process, this will prevent you from rebuilding a cracked block for instance. Follow the book, specs, procedures, tests, info, measurements and sequences are all critical for success. Organization is key. Replace all parts if you can. Sorry to say, it is cheaper to get a “crate” engine now days- saves time, money and worry. They even have a warrantee that you can’t provide.