Transformation of Shallow-Water Waves Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30,

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Transformation of Shallow-Water Waves Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

The transformation of waves across the sea is a complex problem, including the processes of refraction, shoaling, breaking, energy dissipation by bottom friction, and reflection. As waves pass from deep water onto shallow water, the waves become highly nonlinear. Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Wave energy is dissipated due to breaking, but energy is also transferred to both higher and lower frequencies in the wave spectrum, and the spectral shape becomes flat. Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Wave motion: Speed Approximations For h 20h)  Shallow-water waves If x is small, then tanh x ~ x tanh (2  h/L) = (2  h/L) (within 3%) Or: C= L/T = (gh) 1/2  L = 3.13 (h) 1/2.T The water depth is the only variable affecting the wave speed! or m/s Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 A B Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Wave progression toward shore Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. It is due to –Drag along the bottom. –Differential speed along the crest. Wave Refractio n Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Wave Diffraction- Propagation of a wave around an obstacle Wave Reflection- a progressive wave striking a vertical barrier and being reflected in the direction from where they came Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Transformation of Shallow-water Waves As waves enter shallow water –Wavelength shortens –Height increases –Speed decreases Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Annual National Symposium on Computational Science and Engineering (ANSCSE11) Held at Phuket, Thailand, March 28-30, 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Jamboree – II, The JCOMM/IODE Combined Modeling and Data Management Training Workshop Held at Oostende, Belgium, 9 – 14 October 2006 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007

Jamboree – II, The JCOMM/IODE Combined Modeling and Data Management Training Workshop Held at Oostende, Belgium, 9 – 14 October 2006 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Help at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007 Joint Regional Conference on Disaster Relief and Management – International Cooperation & Role of ICT Held at Alexandria, Egypt during the period from 14 to 17 April 2007