Wave Dynamics And Wind Waves 2/16/2019
Surfing The Big Ones Running the Curl 2/16/2019
Wave Dynamics And Wind Waves Waves transmit energy across the ocean’s surface. 2/16/2019
Look For the Following Key Ideas * Waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the ocean’s surface. * Waves are classified by the source; Wind, Gravity , Tsunamis( earthquake or volcano) , Tides ( moon) * The behavior of a wave depends on the relation between the wave’s size and the depth of water through which it is moving. Deep water= ½ wavelength Shallow water=1/20 wavelength ( Faster) ( Slower) * Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can interfere with one another, and reflect from solid objects. At a steepness of 1/7 wave height to wave length a wave is unstable 2/16/2019
Beach Waves Sandy Beach Waves 2/16/2019
Ocean Waves What are the parts of an ocean wave? 2/16/2019
Classifying Waves 2/16/2019
Deep Water Waves, Shallow Water Waves Note the importance of the relationship between wavelength and depth in determining wave type. 2/16/2019
Surfing is all about waves Not Virginia Beach 2/16/2019
What factors affect wind wave development? Wind strength - wind must be moving faster than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue Wind duration - winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves Fetch - the uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without changing direction Gravity ( + Wind) ~~~ Surf ~~~~ Swells ~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2/16/2019
2/16/2019
Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development 2/16/2019
Interference And Rogue Waves When waves meet up, they interfere with one another. Wave interference can be: Destructive interference – two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave Constructive interference – additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves Rogue waves - these freak waves occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum 2/16/2019
Wind Waves Approaching Shore What happens when wind waves break against the shore? 2/16/2019
Wind Waves Approaching Shore What different ways can waves break against the shore? Wave dynamics depends upon the degree of Slope of the bottom. BREAKERS Spilling waves occur on gradually sloping ocean bottoms. The crest of a spilling wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore. East coast Plunging waves break violently against the shore, leaving an air-filled tube, or channel, between the crest and foot of the wave. Plunging waves are formed when waves approach a shore over a more sharply sloped bottom. Surfer’s delight! California and Hawaii Surging waves barely break after scraping a steep sloped bottom. Collapsing waves encounter the steepest slope and loose energy so that they break back on themselves. Atolls / some islands 2/16/2019
Wave Refraction, Diffraction, and Reflection What can affect the way that waves travel? Wave refraction - the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water. Wave diffraction - propagation of a wave around an obstacle Wave reflection - occurs when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter. Reflected waves can cause interference with oncoming waves, creating standing waves. Standing waves are found in inlets and bays They remain in a fixed position 2/16/2019
Internal Waves Waves that occur at the boundaries of water layers with different densities are called internal waves. 2/16/2019
Waves on Rocky Shore 2/16/2019
Waves Come in all sizes 2/16/2019
Tsunami Generation Propagated from Fault 2/16/2019
Tsunami Generated Wave 2/16/2019
Summary Ocean waves are visual proof of the transmission of energy across the surface of the ocean. 2/16/2019
The End Phyllis Butler 2/16/2019