Use of advanced tools for multilocalized design INESCOP Footwear Technological Institute Use of advanced tools for multilocalized design and manufacturing in the footwear industry Dr. Enrique Montiel Industry of Design-Based Products: Creating Value through Customization

What is INESCOP? Independent service organisation. Founded in 1971. INESCOP is a non profit-making organisation created in 1971. It is a service organisation developing scientific and technical activities addressing the needs of the footwear industries that cannot normally be solved individually by the companies due to their small size. Their staff of 147 professionals (13 PhD) includes experts in chemistry, physics, computer science, electronics, ICT, design and robotics. Independent service organisation. Founded in 1971. Non-profit making institution. More than 500 associated companies.

Technology Centre INESCOP works as a Technology Centre that supports footwear industries to develop scientific and technical activities that cannot be undertaken by themselves. INESCOP owns 20 patents on different systems, most of them transferred to the industry for exploitation. INESCOP has participated in over 90 EU projects since 1986.

INESCOP’s services Testing services, quality control. Technology development. Applied research. Industrial and fashion design. Environment. Training. Information. …because we are an industry driven Research Center -> Research to innovate

Network of laboratories: 6 technical units and 1 affiliated centre Close to the factories Network of laboratories: 6 technical units and 1 affiliated centre

246 Billion Euros The world footwear sector Value of the world footwear market: 246 Billion Euros 1 1All data obtained from World Footwear Yearbook 2011

20 Billion Pairs The world footwear sector In 2010 for the first time ever World footwear production exceeded: 20 Billion Pairs

The world footwear sector Manufacture is heavily concentrated in Asia: they produce 87% of all the pairs of shoes produced worldwide European Countries produce only 4% of world footwear pairs

The European footwear sector 20% of world shoe consumption destination of 45% of world imports Europe: And the problem is not only producing less shoes for selling and exporting, there is also a problem with the increase of European imports of outside-EU shoes Europe exports only 11% of world total footwear

23% 9 European countries The European footwear sector are in the top15 world footwear exporters Spain Italy Portugal 23% Share of all footwear exported in the world

The Spanish footwear sector The Valencian Region is the hub of the Spanish footwear industry, although it is also present in areas such as Castilla La Mancha and La Rioja. Shoe images of Shoe Street Art exhibition

Footwear average value The Spanish footwear sector In 2011, Spain exported to China footwear with an average value of 46.43€ Footwear average value Shoe images of Shoe Street Art exhibition Exported 40.2€ Imported 5.9€

The Spanish footwear sector The Spanish industry has been able to increase its exports to the most important European markets, but lost some share in USA. Increase exports to European markets, with the EXCPETION of Great Brtiain

The Spanish footwear sector Imports grew rapidly, both from China and from European markets such as Italy and France.

The Spanish footwear sector Footwear exports concentrate in leather shoes, while imports concentrate in cheap rubber & plastic ones.

Short life cycle + low price The product problem Life-cycle 10 y. 0.5 y. Price 80€ 12,000€ Short life cycle + low price ( + extremely short series: customisation)

Typical design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle The time-to-market problem Typical design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle …but there are other cycles

One season/year design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle The time-to-market problem One season/year design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle e.g. Kelme (sports footwear)

Continuous design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle The time-to-market problem Continuous design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle e.g. Tempe (Zara)

The communication problem Lasts Prototypes Soles Headquarters Design Prototypes Lasts Heels Soles Manufacturing Distribution Manufacturing Heels

at the manufacturing stage Possible solutions Flexibility Speed Accuracy Integration: Marketing support: at the design stage at the manufacturing stage -flexibility, speed and accuracy: cad/cam, with knowledge based applications and integration of files and tools -seamless communication between design team, prototyping team, production team, using integrated model of design and production tools. -new media: RA y RV seamless communication of teams new means

Proven experience We are developers of CAD/CAM software solutions, under an integrated scope: all software are interconnectable, and even they’re connected to our hardware solutios

Case 1: Kelme Problem: to develop a high performance FUTSAL shoe, in collaboration with Michelin, reducing the development/manufacturing time.

Case 1: Kelme Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, All shoe images in this presentation are Virtual Models

Case 1: Kelme Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials

Case 1: Kelme Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials and new sole design in a digital model,

Case 1: Kelme Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials and new sole design in a digital model, using an integrated knowledge-based CAD/CAM solution.

Case 2: Sacha London Problem: to add value to the point-of-sale, and to increase mass media impact of the brand.

Case 2: Sacha London Solution: to offer the chance to customise

Case 2: Sacha London Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection,

Case 2: Sacha London Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet

Case 2: Sacha London Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet and an web-based online customisation system (iShoe),

Case 2: Sacha London Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet and web-based online customisation system (iShoe), and offering the possibility to test the model in an Virtual Mirror (iMirror).

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) …some data: Problem: complex and multifactorial operational environment, with multiple conditional factors. Data corresponding to April 2012 …some data: INDITEX has 5,618 shops, opening at least 1 new shop/day. TEMPE designs, manufactures and distributes footwear for all INDITEX brands. 2 2 April 2012 published data, INDITEX group

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Footwear accounts for 10% of INDITEX’s total sales. Footwear is INDITEX’s most profitable product.

60 million shoes/year (1 billion €). Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) 60 million shoes/year (1 billion €).

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) TEMPE’s Design Center employs 110 designers, working on the two-season collections and the out-of-season designs.

Footwear is worldwide manufactured in 200 factories. Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Footwear is worldwide manufactured in 200 factories.

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Footwear design and production has 2 main seasons, but they also maintain a continuous design/manufacturing cycle for the whole year (to cope with emerging trends & oversales).

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Every year 25,000 prototypes are designed and manufactured… …only 8,000 of them are selected for final production.

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Solution: To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase.

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Solution: To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase. To exchange information using compatible data files between design and production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear.

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex) Solution: To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase. To exchange information using compatible data files between design and production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear. To create hyper-realistic virtual prototypes.

Case 4: CallagHan Problem: to add value to their shoes to differentiate them from their competitors.

Case 4: CallagHan Solution: to design and develop a casual shoe with an integrated electronic device that records physical activity Result from the FP6 EU Project No. 507378 “CEC-made-shoe. Custom, environment and comfort made shoe”

Case 4: CallagHan Solution: to design and develop a casual shoe with an integrated electronic device that records physical activity and is connected to a web-based personal trainer.

Case 5: Duna Problem: to allow the integration of customised footwear manufacture in an industrial line of serial production.

The technology innovation in DUNA Case 5: Duna The technology innovation in DUNA New Products Lines New communication systems Specific solutions to integrate different technologies in the production processes All products must be developed according to the European laws for medical devices Small production lot till the single pair or shoe with specific technical solution against production industrial machines generally studied for simply workout and lots with high volume. The large range of technical info on the products to be transferred to end-users, customers and medical world require appropriate communication systems. DUNA is official partner of “SSHOES - Special Shoes Movement” European Project Grant agreement no.: NMP-2008-SME-2-R.229261 Special R&D Programs

Case 5: Duna Solution: by means of the research project SSHOES3 (Special Shoes Movement), to develop a completely digital process to manufacture a customised diabetic shoe: Biomechanical analysis (MiniLab). Foot scanning (3D scanner). Activity pattern analysis. Knowledge-based CAD/CAM design. Testing devices. Robotic cell production. 3 NMP2-SE-2009-229261, Seventh Framework Programme.

Future trends: Seamless integration of functional analysis/biomechanics, material science and comfort issues in CAD/CAM software. Low-cost robotic cells for short series production as well as massive introduction of robotics. Better simulation tools, both for product and processes: VR, AR. Better use of ICT tools: interoperability, embedding Knowledge in products.

You are invited…

POLIGONO INDUSTRIAL CAMPO ALTO E-mail: emontiel@inescop.es Footwear Technological Institute POLIGONO INDUSTRIAL CAMPO ALTO C/ Alemania, 102 03600 ELDA ·ALICANTE· SPAIN Tel. +34 965 39 52 13 - Fax +34 965 38 10 45 E-mail: emontiel@inescop.es http://www.inescop.es