Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course web site.

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Properties of Ocean Waves An ocean wave is an undulation of the sea surface. Wave crest Wave trough Wave height Wave length Wave period Progressive waves move across the sea surface. Standing waves oscillate about a fixed point.

What Causes Waves? Wind Submarine disturbance Gravitational attraction of sun and moon

Wind Generation of Waves Wind velocity Wind duration Fetch (distance over which wind blows) Simply put, wave size increases as all these factors increase.

Progressive Waves Wind-generated waves are progressive waves because they travel across the sea surface.

Progressive Wave Types Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation Swell - more regular waves beyond area of generation Surf - waves that have reached the coast, grow in height, and break

Wave Motions Forward movement of the wave form. Orbital motion of water particles beneath the wave. It is wave energy, NOT water molecules, that moves across the sea surface.

Flow of Energy,not Mass (Figure 7-2)

Wave Motion with Depth (Figure 7-3a)

Motion Animation

Deep Water Waves (Figure 7-4a) Waves do NOT interact with the seafloor. Orbits of the water molecules are circular.

Shallow Water Waves (Figure 7-4b) Waves DO interact with the seafloor. Orbits of the water molecules become elliptical.

Life History of Ocean Waves (Figure 7-7a)

Life History of Ocean Waves Waves originate in the fetch area. This area is characterized by a “confused” sea state with extensive wave interference. This interference may be Constructive Destructive

Rogue Waves? (Figure 7-6b) Constructive wave interference - wave buildup

Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) Destructive wave interference - wave cancellation

Progressive Wave Types Sea - irregular waves in the area of generation Swell - more regular waves beyond area of generation Surf - waves that have reached the coast, grow in height, and break

Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a)

Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave’s properties. This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers).

Wave Refraction (Figure 7-8a) Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. It is due to Drag along the bottom. Differential speed along the crest.

Shallow-water Wave Transformations Interaction with the sea bottom. Bottom friction alters both the Wave form Wavelength shortens (decreases) Height increases Celerity (speed of wave form) decreases

Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b)

Progressive Wave Types Sea Swell Surf

Surf’s Up! Spilling Plunging, or Surging depending on the slope of the bottom (Figure 7-9)

Condition Black Video

Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves (Figure 7-3b)