The Ultimate Question… on Paper 2!! Hair Care Products The Ultimate Question… on Paper 2!! Bernice Ridley SCS Summer School 2017

Hair Care Products What do you know? What should you know? Where is the information? Question Examples Group Work

Non-aerosol Hair Spray Hair Care Products What do you know? What are the types of hair care products you need to know about? Conditioner Permanent Hair Dye Hair Mousse Perm Shampoo Temporary Hair Dye Blow Dry Lotion UV Protectant Heat Protectant Hair Gel Hair Serum Non-aerosol Hair Spray Straightener Aerosol Hairspray Relaxer Others?

Hair Care Products What do you know? Can we put these hair care products into different categories? Perm Hair Serum Permanent Hair Dye Straightener Temporary Hair Dye Relaxer Hair Gel Heat Protectant Conditioner Shampoo Hair Mousse Non-aerosol Hair Spray UV Protectant Blow Dry Lotion Aerosol Hairspray Products that Cleanse Products that Protect Products that Temporarily Change the Hair Products that “Permanently” Change the Hair But some hair care products can fit in more than one category

Hair Care Products What should you know? As a cosmetic scientist you should understand: The purpose of a cosmetic product (function of product) The types of ingredients that go in the product and why (function of ingredients) The approximate levels of ingredients in a formulation (“frame formulation”) How the product works on the hair How you test how well it works How safe is the product What regulations apply for this product

Hair Care Products Where is the information? Module 2 Unit 15 – Hair Products Module 1 Unit 12 – Hair Structure Module 1 Unit 8 – Surfactants Module 1 Unit 10 – Emulsions Module 1 Unit 7 – Oils, Fats and Waxes Module 1 Unit 9 – Gums, Thickeners and Resins Module 3 Unit 21 – Product Stability Module 3 Unit 22 – Aerosols Module 4 Unit 24 – Cosmetic Regulation Module 4 Unit 25 – Product Evaluation Module 4 Unit 27 – Product Safety Module 4 Unit 29 – Claim Support Module 4 Unit 31 – Product Development + Reference texts

Hair Care Products Question Examples Paper II Q8 2011 a) What are the primary functions of a shampoo and what factors affect the choice of ingredients that are used? (5 marks) b) Outline a typical shampoo formulation for normal hair and describe the function of each of the ingredients. How would the formulation change if this was a product aimed for use on babies? (15 marks) c) How would you assess the efficacy of the products? (5 marks)

Hair Care Products Mark Scheme Paper II Q8 2011 Function is to clean the hair and scalp. Factors include reference to cleaning at low temperatures, little skin and eye irritancy, safe ingredients, stable foam, easily rinseable foam, correct pH to minimise damage to hair, correct viscosity for stabilisation, storage and use, compatibility with other actives such as cationic polymers or silicones, milder products for recent use (1 mark per point, should include some reference to irritancy and foaming)

Hair Care Products Shampoo for Normal Hair Ingredient/ Function % Notes Water (solvent) To 100 Primary surfactant (SLES, SLS…..) 5 – 15% active Total active surfactant content 8 – 20% Secondary surfactant (CAB…) 2 – 6% active Foam booster (non-ionics, PEG Castor Oil, amine oxides etc.) 0.5 – 5.0% active Preservative 0.1 – 1% Humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol etc.) 1 – 5% Citric acid to pH 6 – 6.5 Chelating agent ~0.02% Fragrance 0.1 – 0.5% Conditioning Agent (PQ-10, Cat Guar, PQ7, protein derivatives, silicones) 0.5 – 2% Botanical ingredients Viscosity regulator (typically salt, also anionic/ non-ionic rheology modifiers) 0.5 – 5% Pearling agent Colours qs

Hair Care Products Mark Scheme (1 mark per ingredient, function and typical levels up to maximum 10. Lose marks for no surfactants/ active levels too low/ high) Baby shampoo uses surfactants to minimise eye, scalp and skin irritation, often based on non- ionics and amphoterics, active level may be lower, fragrance/ colour levels may be lower, pH will be more neutral to minimise eye irritation Formulation can be included or differences described (5 marks) c) Reference to lather testing/ foam stability testing, ease of rinsing, ease of combing, sensorial testing on hair (feel, shine, manageability, body), stability of formulation, safety testing, testing can be on swatches, half head or consumer trials where appropriate (1 mark per test, 1 mark for more details up to max 5 marks)

Hair Care Products Question Examples Paper II Q8 2012 Answer all parts:- Describe a frame formulation for a crème conditioner and describe the function of each of the ingredients (10 marks) How would you evaluate the effect of conditioning agents on the hair? (10marks)

Hair Care Products Mark Scheme Paper II Q8 2012 Definition of requirements from a conditioner, including, soft, easy to manage, temporary repair of hair damage, improvements in gloss, volume… Differences between rinse-off and leave-on; references to greasy, limp feel caused by oils, silicones and highly substantive quats, need to improve drying time for hair coated by leave-on products by e.g. including alcohol, Frame formulations should show some consideration of differences between the conditioner types, . Marks will be given for type of ingredient, example and function within the formulation. Same formulation would work for both if explained well, also consideration that consumer may use both product types. Reference to particular claims that can be made for conditioners (substantivity, sensorial, volume, hair breakage etc.) and ways this can be tested, from hair swatches through to panel studies and home use trials

Hair Care Products Question Examples Paper II Q8 2013 Answer all parts:- What are the key attributes of a formulation designed to chemically straighten hair? (5 marks) What is the difference between a standard and a “no-lye” relaxer? (3 marks) Provide a suitable frame formulation for a hair relaxer to be used in tropical climates (10 marks) How would you evaluate the effect the hair relaxer? (4marks) What warnings should be on the packaging for this product? (3 marks)

Hair Care Products Mark Scheme Paper II Q8 2013 a) Effective hair straightening effect, without using dangerous levels of chemicals - Contain sufficient oils/ emollients to help protect the scalp against irritation - Be stable at 45°C (especially for use in hot countries) - Be easy to apply and use without running into the eyes - Not cause excessive damage to the hair, scalp or hands Be correctly labelled for the required use (salon or home use) b) A standard or “lye” relaxer contains sodium or potassium hydroxide; “no lye” relaxers are based on lithium hydroxide guanidine hydroxide, (in practice calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate premixed just before use)

Hair Care Products Standard / Lye Relaxer Ingredients % Function No Lye Relaxer Sodium/ Potassium Hydroxide ~ 2% Active Ingredient Part A - Fatty alcohols/waxes/ petrolatum 10 – 50% Conditioners/ protectants/ thickeners Fatty alcohols/waxes/ petrolatum Other Oils/ emollients 5 – 10% Conditioners/ Shine Emulsifiers 1 – 5% Stabilise product Calcium Hydroxide ~2% Active Ingredient precursor Water to 100 Solvent Conditioning Polymers Conditioner Fragrance/ preservative/ colour qs Part B Water To 100 Guanidine Carbonate ~25% Active ingredient precursor Gum (Xanthan) 0.1 – 0.5 Thickener

Hair Care Products Mark Scheme d) Reference to safety tests, efficacy tests on intended hair type, stability tests at 45°C and 20°C above normal storage temperatures, using trained hairdressers to test and evaluate for scalp damage e) Can include: Avoid contact with eyes/ Can cause blindness/ If relaxer gets into eyes, immediately rinse out thoroughly and obtain medical assistance/ Contains alkali/ Keep out of reach of children/ Use only as directed/ if accidentally swallowed, obtain medical assistance immediately/ if relaxer causes skin or scaly irritation, rinse immediately and obtain medical assistance / Wear gloves when applying relaxer cream/ do not use if scalp is irritated or injured/ do not use on bleached or chemically treated hair

Hair Care Products Group Work In your groups write out revision notes for one of the categories of hair care products chosen at random from the bag of stars that include Function of the Product Frame Formulation of the Product How you would test the Product Discuss in your Group (30 mins) and present to the others (5 mins)

Hair Care Products Thank you for your attention and good luck with your exams (and the last essay!) Any questions?