Mezzanine Build Plans

Overview of Design: Beam A (Ledger Board) Beam B Beam C Beam D

Overview of Design: Step #1 - Cut and Install Ledger Board Step #2 to #6 - Cut Columns and attach Sill Plates Step #7 and #8 - Anchor columns to foundation and brace to cinder block wall Step #9 to #11 - Cut and Install Beams B, C, and D Steps #12 to #15 - Install Joist Hangers Steps #16 to #18 - Cut and Install Joists Steps #19 to #21 - Install Handrail posts Step #22 - Install Stairs Step #23 - Sheath top of mezzanine with plywood Step #24 and #25 - Install Handrails, Toeboards, and Chains

Lumber/Hardware/BOM

Construction Equipment Needed Hammer Circular Saw Cordless Drill Impact Drill Power Chords Nail Gun Saw Horse PPE (gloves, glasses, etc.) Measuring Tape Pencil/Marker Straight Edge Level Right Angle Ladder/Step Ladder Clamps Ramset Single Shot Tool

Step #1 - Install Ledger Board Begin by cutting two 2x12 to match the length of the back wall (approximately 13’ 4”) Clamp the two 2x12 boards together and connect them with a row of four 16d Nails. Each row should be space 16 inches. Refer to the figure below: On one side of the measure and cut a section that is approximately 2”-3” wide starting 4”-5” from one end. This is to accommodate the electrical conduit running down the rear wall. Refer to the figure below: Double Ply 16” Continue spacing until end of ledger 4-5” This side of the beam will be touching the cinder block wall 2-3”

Step #1 - Install Ledger Board Position the double ply ledger board so the bottom face of the board is located at a height of 68” from the ground, and the conduit is encased appropriately. Nail/Toenail the double ply board into the wall using Ramset Single Shot Tool to hold the board in position while drilling holes to place the anchors. Use an impact drill to cut holes through the ledger board and into the cinder block wall for the heavy duty screw anchors. Follow the steps below and reference the diagrams on the next page: Anchor Type: LOK-BOLT AS Sleeve Anchor Anchors should be spaced every 16” Anchors should be alternate positions between the top and bottom of the beam. Anchors should be placed a minimum of 2” from the top or bottom of the board. Drill a hole using a drill bit with a 1/2” diameter drill a hole through the ledger beam into the cinder block. The hole should drill a minimum of 2” into the cinderblock wall. After position has been drilled, be sure to thoroughly clear the existing hole of any residual material. Position the washer on the anchor and thread on the nut. Using a hammer drive the anchor through the ledger board into the anchor hole until the nut and washer are secure against the surface. The anchor must enter the cinderblock wall a minimum of 1.5” Tighten the anchor by turning the nut 3 to 5 times past finger tight

Step #1 - Install Ledger Board Spacing Requirements for Anchors: Double Ply 16” Continue spacing until end of ledger Anchor Installation Process: Drill Hole Clean Hole Hammer Anchor Tighten Anchor

Step #2 - Installation of Columns for Beam B With the ledger board in place, begin adjusting the columns that will support the second beam. Note: Each column will rest on a 2x4 pressure treated sill plate. On the top of each column will be two 2x4’s of dimensioned lumber acting as a top plate. Additionally, the LVLs used for Beam B are 11 ⅞” as opposed to the 2x12’s used for the back ledger board. Therefore, for the beams to be level, the columns will be cut to approximately 62 ⅞” (This number is used to provide a sense check during dimensioning the steps that follow). Determine the necessary column length. This can be done a number of ways, and will be left up to the contractor’s expertise. One possible idea is outlined below: Run a piece of 2x4 from the top of the ledger board and mark the distance that is approximately 6 feet from the ledger board (this is the approximate placement of the columns relative to the ledger board). Place a level along the top of the 2x4 and adjust the free end of the 2x4 until the board is in a level position. Measure the distance to the floor at the 6 foot mark, subtracting off Beam B’s size and the thickness of the top and bottom sill plates, to find the needed column length.

Step #2 - Installation of Columns for Beam B Measure and cut the solid Parallam lumber to the required column length. Properly cut one bottom sill plate so it spans the distance from Beam B to Beam C (approximately 6 feet) for right side of the columns and cut another bottom sill plate so it spans the distance from Beam B to Beam D (approximately 14 feet) for the left side of columns. Place the appropriately sized Parallam on top of the sill plate ensuring one edge is flush with the end of the sill plate. Nail through the bottom of the sill plate into the beam using two common 16d (0.162” x 3 ½”) nails for every 1 ¾” of column width.

Step #3 -Installation of Outside Columns for Beam C Determine the necessary column length. This can be done a number of ways, and will be left up to the contractor’s expertise. One possible idea is outlined below: Stand up the first column (which is attached to the sill plate) and place it in its final location. Run a piece of 2x4 from the top of the column and mark the distance that is approximately 6 feet from the column (this is the approximate placement of the columns for Beam C relative to the columns for Beam B). Place a level along the top of the 2x4 and adjust the free end of the 2x4 until the board is in a level position. Measure the distance to the sill plate at the 6 foot mark to find the needed column length. Measure and cut the solid Parallam lumber to the required column length. Place the appropriately sized Parallam on top of the sill plate ensuring one edge is flush with the end of the sill plate (For the longer sill plate, make sure the Parallam is placed in the appropriate position because it cannot be flush with the end).. Nail through the bottom of the sill plate into the column using two common 16d (0.162” x 3 ½”) nails for every 1 ¾” of column width.

Alternative Design for Steps #2 and #3 Currently under investigation is the use of “Built-up” columns. The team recently discovered a few assumptions that under a separate section of the NDS handbook that may allow for the use of “Built-up” columns replacing the Engineered Parallam Columns. The following steps are additional steps that would be used in tandem with the steps previously noted. Follow the procedures outlined in Steps #2 and #3 to determine the proper length of the column. Cut three separate 2x6’s of dimensioned lumber to the appropriate column length. Connect the columns using nails (nail size to be determined) in the pattern described in NDS literature. Replace the use of the solid column used in Steps #2 and #3. With the new column, continue with the procedures outlined in Steps #2 and #3

Step #4 - Installation of Outside Column for Beam D Determine the necessary column length. This can be done a number of ways, and will be left up to the contractor’s expertise. One possible idea is outlined below: Stand up the two Parallam Columns (which are attached to the longer sill plate) and place them in their final location against the wall. Run a piece of 2x4 from the top of the column and mark the distance that is approximately 8 feet from the column (this is the approximate placement of the outside column for Beam D relative to the column for Beam C). Place a level along the top of the 2x4 and adjust the free end of the 2x4 until the board is in a level position. Measure the distance to the sill plate at the 8 foot mark to find the needed column length. Measure and cut the 4x4 lumber used for the columns under Beam D to the required column length. Place the appropriately sized 4x4 on top of the sill plate ensuring one edge is flush with the end of the sill plate. Nail through the bottom of the sill plate into the column using two common 16d (0.162” x 3 ½”) nails for every 1 1/2” of column width.

Step #5 - Installation of Middle Section of Columns Determine the necessary column length. This can be done a number of ways, and will be left up to the contractor’s expertise. One possible idea is outlined below: Stand up the columns which are attached to the longer sill plate, and place them in their final location against the wall. Run a piece of 2x4 from the top of the column and mark the distance that is approximately 5’4” from the column. This is the approximate placement of the middle column for Beam C (or D) relative to the outside column for Beam C (or D). Place a level along the top of the 2x4 and adjust the free end of the 2x4 until the board is in a level position. Measure the distance to the sill plate at the 5’4”mark to find the needed column length.

Step #5 - Installation of Middle Section of Columns Measure and cut the 4x4 lumber used for the middle columns under Beams C and D to the required column length. Properly cut one bottom sill plate so it spans the distance from Beam C to Beam D (approximately 8 feet) for the middle columns. Place the appropriately sized 4x4 on top of the sill plate ensuring one edge is flush with the end of the sill plate. Nail through the bottom of the sill plate into the column using two common 16d (0.162” x 3 ½”) nails for every 1 1/2” of column width. Place the other appropriately sized 4x4 on top of the sill plate ensuring one edge is flush with the other end of the sill plate. Nail through the bottom of the sill plate into the column using two common 16d (0.162” x 3 ½”) nails for every 1 1/2” of column width.

Step #6 - Installation of the Top Sill Plates Once all of the columns have been installed to the bottom sill plate the top sill plates can be installed on each set of columns. Measure the distance between end columns to verify the size of sill plate that is needed. Cut the top sill plates to the required length (remember that there are two top sill plates for each set of columns). Place one top plate along the columns, ensuring the ends are flush, and nail through the top plate into the column using two common 16d (0.162” x 3 ½”) nails for every 1 ½” (for dimensioned lumber) or every 1 ¾” (for engineered lumber). Place the second top plate along the first, ensuring the ends are flush, and nail through the second top plate into the first top plate using two common 16d (0.162” x 3 ½”) nails for every 1 ½” (for dimensioned lumber) or every 1 ¾” (for engineered lumber).

Step #7 - Anchor Columns to the foundation Stand up each set of columns (on their respective sill plates) and placed them in their appropriate positions. Once one set of columns is in the appropriate position, drill and place foundational anchors on the bottom sill plate. There should be an anchor near each column (and on both sides of the column is the sill plate allows for it). After this set of columns is in place, use chalk lines to ensure the next two sets of columns will be positioned in line with the first set of columns. As each set of columns is in the appropriate position, double check to ensure the columns are level with each other and level with the sill plate (adjust with shims if necessary). After the columns are determined to be level, drill and place foundation anchors on the bottom sill plate.

Step #8 - Brace Columns to Wall Using an angle bracket and heavy duty screw anchors brace each side of the columns along the walls to the cinder blocks. Place a set of bracing brackets within the top quarter of the of the column. Begin by following the instructions outlined earlier (and repeated below) for installing a heavy duty screw anchor. Use an impact drill to cut holes into the cinder block wall for the heavy duty screw anchors. Follow the steps below and refer to the diagrams on the next page: Anchor Type: LOK-BOLT AS Sleeve Anchor Using a drill bit with a 1/2” diameter drill a hole into the cinder block. The hole should drill a minimum of 2” into the cinderblock wall. After position has been drilled, be sure to thoroughly clear the existing hole of any residual material. Position the washer on the anchor and thread on the nut. Using a hammer drive the anchor through angle bracket into the anchor hole until the nut and washer are secure against the surface. The anchor must enter the cinderblock wall a minimum of 1.5” Tighten the anchor by turning the nut 3 to 5 times past finger tight Once the angle bracket is secured to the cinder block wall, connect the angle bracket to the column.

Step #8 - Brace Columns to Wall Bracing Locations: Angle Bracket Top Plate Column Screw Anchor Anchor Installation Process: Drill Hole Clean Hole Hammer Anchor Tighten Anchor

Step #9 - Installation of Beam B Begin by cutting two LVLs (1.75” x 11.875”) to match the length of the ledger board (approximately 13’ 4”) Clamp the two LVLs together and connect them with a row of 2 common 10d nails (0.148” x 3”). Each row should be space 12 inches and the nails should be place 2” from the top and bottom of the LVL respectively. Refer to the figure below: Once the double ply LVL has been created, lift the beam into place along the top of the sill plates (above the designated columns). Tack/toenail the beam into place at each end to temporarily secure the beam during construction Place an angle bracket on one side of the beam and connect it to the sill plate to further secure the beam. Further bracing can be added by connecting a strap between the beam and column. Note: Once the joists are installed, the beam will be further secured laterally. Double Ply 12” Continue spacing until end of Beam

Step #10 - Installation of Beam C Begin by cutting two LVLs (1.75” x 11.875”) to match the length of the ledger board and Beam B (approximately 13’ 4”) Clamp the two LVLs together and connect them with a row of 2 common 10d nails (0.148” x 3”). Each row should be space 12 inches and the nails should be place 2” from the top and bottom of the LVL respectively. Refer to the figure below: Once the double ply LVL has been created, lift the beam into place along the top of the sill plates (above the designated columns). Tack/toenail the beam into place at each end to temporarily secure the beam during construction. Place an angle bracket on one side of the beam and connect it to the sill plate to further secure the beam. Further bracing can be added by connecting a strap between the beam and column (or an additional angle bracket in the case of the longer sill plate). Note: Once the joists are installed, the beam will be further secured laterally. Double Ply 12” Continue spacing until end of Beam

Step #11 - Installation of Beam D Begin by cutting two LVLs (1.75” x 11.875”) to properly span the two columns for Beam D (approximately 5’ 4”) Clamp the two LVLs together and connect them with a row of 2 common 10d nails (0.148” x 3”). Each row should be space 12 inches and the nails should be place 2” from the top and bottom of the LVL respectively. Refer to the figure below: Once the double ply LVL has been created, lift the beam into place along the top of the sill plates (above the designated columns). Tack/toenail the beam into place at each end to temporarily secure the beam during construction. Place an angle bracket on one side of the beam and connect it to the sill plate to further secure the beam. Further bracing can be added by connecting a strap between the beam and column. Note: Once the joists are installed, the beam will be further secured laterally. Double Ply 12” Continue spacing until end of Beam

Step #12 - Install Joist Hangers on Beam A Measure out and mark the distance between joists (16” on center) on beam A Place the Simpson Strong-Tie joist hanger (LUS28) so that a joist will be flush with the top of beam A. Use 6 common 10d (0.148” x 3”) nails, 3 on each side, to secure the joist hanger to beam A. Nails into Carrying Member Nails into Carrying Member

Step #13 - Install Joist Hangers on Beam B Measure out and mark the distance between joists (16” on center) on beam B Place the Simpson Strong-Tie joist hanger (LUS28) so that a joist will be flush with the top of beam B. Use 6 common 10d (0.148” x 3”) nails, 3 on each side, to secure the joist hanger to beam B. An additional 6 common 10d (0.148” x 3”) nails (two rows of 3) should be placed into the beam on both sides of the joist hangers. The first row should be 8 inches away from the joist hanger and the second row should be 10 inches away from the joist hanger. Nails into Carrying Member Nails into Carrying Member General Nailing Pattern

Step #14 - Install Joist Hangers on Beam C Measure out and mark the distance between joists (16” on center) on beam C Place the Simpson Strong-Tie joist hanger (LUS28) so that a joist will be flush with the top of beam C. Use 6 common 10d (0.148” x 3”) nails, 3 on each side, to secure the joist hanger to beam C. An additional 6 common 10d (0.148” x 3”) nails (two rows of 3) should be placed into the beam on both sides of the joist hangers. The first row should be 8 inches away from the joist hanger and the second row should be 10 inches away from the joist hanger. Nails into Carrying Member Nails into Carrying Member General Nailing Pattern

Step #15 - Install Joist Hangers on Beam D Measure out and mark the distance between joists (16” on center) on beam D Place the Simpson Strong-Tie joist hanger (LUS28) so that a joist will be flush with the top of beam D. Use 6 common 10d (0.148” x 3”) nails, 3 on each side, to secure the joist hanger to beam D. An additional 6 common 10d (0.148” x 3”) nails (two rows of 3) should be placed into the beam on both sides of the joist hangers. The first row should be 8 inches away from the joist hanger and the second row should be 10 inches away from the joist hanger. Nails into Carrying Member Nails into Carrying Member General Nailing Pattern

Step #16 - Install Joists Between Beam A and B Measure and cut joists (2x8) to fit between the joist hangers, 11 will be needed (approximately 5’8”) Carefully lift the joist into position in the joist hangers between beam A and B, starting with the joist closest the wall Ensure that the joist is less than 1/8th of an inch from the beam within the hanger and flush with the top of both beams. Use 8 common 10d nails to secure the joist in the hoist hanger at a 45° angle, 4 nails per hanger (2 per side) Nails into Carried Member

Step #17 - Install Joists Between Beam B and C Measure and cut joists (2x8) to fit between the joist hangers, 11 will be needed (approximately 5’8”) Carefully lift the joist into position in the joist hangers between beam B and C, starting with the joist closest the wall Ensure that the joist is less than 1/8th of an inch from the beam within the hanger and flush with the top of both beams. Use 8 common 10d nails to secure the joist in the hoist hanger at a 45° angle, 4 nails per hanger (2 per side) Nails into Carried Member

Step #18 - Install Joists Between Beam C and D Measure and cut joists (2x8) to fit between the joist hangers, 5 will be needed (approximately 8’) Carefully lift the joist into position in the joist hangers between beam C and D, starting with the joist closest the wall Ensure that the joist is less than 1/8th of an inch from the beam within the hanger and flush with the top of both beams. Use 8 common 10d nails to secure the joist in the hoist hanger at a 45° angle, 4 nails per hanger (2 per side) Nails into Carried Member

Step #19 - Install Handrail Posts on Beam C Measure and cut three 4x4’s of dimensioned lumber to size (approximately 54”) Drawing a line 12” from one end to mark where the top of the beam should be on the post and tack a nail. Measure and mark the center and end of the post 2 and 4 inches from the wall respectively, at both ends of beam C. Then measure and mark the center and sides of posts every XXXX feet along the beam. Hold the post in position against the outside face of the beam, resting on the nail and clamp into place. Checking to make sure the clamps won’t get in the way of the bolts and that the bottom of the post is flush with the bottom of the beam. Drill two holes through the post and beam, one a minimum of 2” from the top and one a minimum of 2” from the bottom of the beam (You will need a drill bit the exact size and length of bolt ) Pound an 8 inch, 1/2" diameter bolt through both holes using a hammer and secure with a washer and nut on the other side.

Step #20 - Install Handrail Posts on Side Joist Note: If small hand rails are desired along the opening of the platform to decrease the span of the chains. A double ply joist will be used along the outside edge instead of a single ply joist. This will allow for posts to be mounted through the double ply joist. Measure and cut two 4x4 to size (approximately 54”) Drawing a line 8” from one end to mark where the top of the joist should be on the post and tack a nail. Measure and mark the center and end of the post 2 and 4 inches from the wall respectively, at both ends of the joist. Hold the post in position against the outside face of the joist, resting on the nail and clamp into place. Checking to make sure the clamps won’t get in the way of the bolts Drill two holes through the post and joist, one 2” from the top and one 2” from the bottom of the joist (You will need a drill bit the exact size and length of bolt ) Pound an 8 inch, 1/2" diameter bolt through both holes using a hammer and secure with a washer and nut on the other side.

Step #21 - Install Handrail Posts on Beam D Measure and cut two 4x4 to size (approximately 54”) Drawing a line 12” from one end to mark where the top of the beam should be on the post and tack a nail. Measure and mark the center and end of the post 2 and 4 inches from the wall respectively, at both ends of beam C. Then measure and mark the center and sides of posts every XXXX feet along the beam. Hold the post in position against the outside face of the beam, resting on the nail and clamp into place. Checking to make sure the clamps won’t get in the way of the bolts and that the bottom of the post is flush with the bottom of the beam. Drill two holes through the post and beam, one a minimum of 2” from the top and one minimum of 2” from the bottom of the beam (You will need a drill bit the exact size and length of bolt ) Pound an 8 inch, 1/2" diameter bolt through both holes using a hammer and secure with a washer and nut on the other side.

Step #22 - Mount Stairs along wall on Beam D Place stairs into designated location on Beam D. Use pencil to mark locations to drill bolt holes on Beam D and use marker to mark locations to drill holes into concrete slab. Remove stairs. Drill holes through Beam D at marked locations with a power drill and wood drill bit. Drill holes through concrete with bit and hammer drill. Place stairs into position and use a bolt, washer, nut combination to secure to Beam D. Use an anchor screw to secure into concrete.

Step #23 - Sheathe top of mezzanine Place the first piece of ¾” plywood, starting in the back corner of the garage, so that the grain is across the joists. Before securing the plywood to the structure ensure that it is perfectly straight and square since the rest of the the pieces depend on this first piece. Use 2” subfloor nails every 6” on-center along the edges and 12” on-center for the interior of the panel. Measure the remaining area across the mezzanine and cut the plywood to match those dimensions. When placing the next board, make sure there is a minimum space of ⅛” between boards to allow for growth. Secure using 2” subfloor nails every 6” on-center along the edges and 12” on-center for the interior of the panel. For subsequent rows, the boards need to be staggered so that there isn’t a seam across the joists. Repeat steps 3-5 till the mezzanine is covered.

Step #24 - Add Handrails and Toeboards Measure and cut 4x4’s for handrails and the toeboards. Use a pencil to mark locations for fastening the handrails to the top of the posts. Use a pencil to mark locations for fastening the midrail to the post (21” on center from the plywood sheathing. Use a pencil to mark locations for fastening the toeboard to the posts (along the surface of the plywood sheathing. Drill holes in appropriate locations. Fasten handrails, midrail, and toeboard to the posts.

Step #25 - Install Chains across openings Install chain fasteners to the opening in the hand railing system at the level of the handrail and the midrail. Install chain fasteners to the opening of the stairway. Install chains across handrail opening so there is no slack in the middle section of the chain. Install chains across the stairway.

Final Checks - Inspect Mezzanine Inspect the mezzanine to ensure all steps were appropriately conducted and met. Test mezzanine. Install elevator and test system.

Finished!