Waves and Water Dynamics

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Presentation transcript:

Waves and Water Dynamics Chapter 8 Surf Zone

Waves in Surf Zone Surf zone – zone of breaking waves near shore Shoaling water – water becoming gradually more shallow When deep water waves encounter shoaling water less than ½ their wavelength, they become transitional waves.

Waves Approaching Shore As a deep-water wave becomes a shallow-water wave: Wave speed decreases Wavelength decreases Wave height increases Wave steepness (height/wavelength) increases When steepness > 1/7, wave breaks

Waves Approaching Shore

Breakers in Surf Zone Surf as swell from distant storms Waves break close to shore Uniform breakers Surf generated by local winds Choppy, high energy, unstable water Shallow water waves

Three Types of Breakers Spilling Surging Plunging

Spilling Breakers Gently sloping sea floor Wave energy expended over longer distance Water slides down front slope of wave

Plunging Breakers Moderately steep sea floor Wave energy expended over shorter distance Best for board surfers Curling wave crest

Surging Breakers Steepest sea floor Energy spread over shortest distance Best for body surfing Waves break on the shore

Surfing Like riding a gravity-operated water sled Balance of gravity and buoyancy Skilled surfers position board on wave front Can achieve speeds up to 40 km/hour (25 miles/hour)

Wave Refraction Waves rarely approach shore at a perfect 90-degree angle. As waves approach shore, they bend so wave crests are nearly parallel to shore. Wave speed is proportional to the depth of water (shallow-water wave). Different segments of the wave crest travel at different speeds.

Wave Refraction

Wave Refraction Wave energy unevenly distributed on shore Orthogonal lines or wave rays – drawn perpendicular to wave crests More energy released on headlands Energy more dissipated in bays

Wave Refraction Gradually erodes headlands Sediment accumulates in bays

Wave Reflection Waves and wave energy bounced back from barrier Reflected wave can interfere with next incoming wave. With constructive interference, can create dangerous plunging breakers

Standing Waves Two waves with same wavelength moving in opposite directions Water particles move vertically and horizontally. Water sloshes back and forth. http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/seiche.html

Standing Waves Nodes have no vertical movement Antinodes are alternating crests and troughs.

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