HAIRSTYLING THE CLIENT WILL OFTEN JUDGE YOUR WORK BY THE FINISHED STYLE CLIENT CONSULTATION 1ST STEP TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION ALL YOU LEARNED IN CHAPTER 14: FACE SHAPE, HAIR TYPE AND LIFESTYLE

FINGERWAVING ALL THE RAGE IN 20’S FINGERWAVING- ART OF SHAPING HAIR USING FINGERS, COMBS, IN TO AN “S” PATTERN

FINGER-WAVING LOTION TYPE OF HAIR GEL OR LOTION THAT MAKES HAIR PLIABLE TO KEEP IT IN PLACE MADE FROM KARAYA GUM DILUTE FOR FINE HAIR GOOD LOTION DOES NOT FLAKE WHEN DRY APPLY: HEAVY SIDE FIRST

WAVES ARE CREATED: HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL AND DIAGONAL HORIZONTAL-sideways and parallel VERTICAL- up and down the head DIAGONAL- slight angle

Pin Curls Pin curls are basis for patterns, lines, waves: wide range of hairstyles Work best when hair is layered Smooth tightly wound ribboning Alternative to wrapping

Parts of a Pin Curl Base – stationary foundation of the curl; area closest to scalp stem-sec. between base and first arc; gives curl direction and movement Circle-forms the complete circle; determines width and strength/wave

Mobility of a Pin Curl Stem determines mobility or movement Classified as no stem, half stem, full stem

No Stem Pin Curl Placed directly on its base:minimum mobility Produces tight firm, long lasting curl

Half Stem Pin Curl The circle is placed half on and half off its base Permits movement; gives good control to hair This square base is half stem curl circle ½ base Stem

Full Stem Curl Allows for greatest mobility Curl placed completely off base Full freedom or mobility; used to give hair direction Curl sits completely Off its base

????????????????????????????? The first step in the hairstyling process should be? What is shaping the hair into S formations used for? How would you create a horizontal finger wave?

Answers Client consultation Finger Waving Parallel ridges around the head Describe the type of pin curl that give firm long lasting curls No stem pin curl

Shaping for Pin Curl Bases SHAPING-section of hair molded in a circ. Movement in preparation for theformation of Pin Curls Shaping are open or closed Begin pin curls at the open end (convex side

Open Center Curls

Open Center Pincurls open center curls produce smooth even waves

Closed Center Pincurls Get small towards ends Closed center good for fine hair If fluffy comb out is desired Width of the curl determines size of the wave

Curl and Stem Direction FORWARD Curls turned toward face Reverse –away from face Downward stem Stems can go up or down Clockwise with hand of clock Counter clockwise

Pin Curl Bases and Foundations Square Base- curly styles: no vol. Rectangle- upsweep effect usually on side area Arc-half moon or C shape:nape area Triangle –front facial- prevents splits or breaks

Pin Curl Technique Ribboning- forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb Creates tension

Carved or Sculptured Curls Pin Curls sliced from a shaping Formed without lifting the hair Using tail comb gingerly pick up piece of hair, ribbon it, and form a curl

Designing with Pin Curls Skip waves – alternating ridges and curls Ridge Curls- curls placed behind a ridge

Cascade or Stand-Up Pin Curls Can use any base Good for height or volume The size of curl determines height Stand Up Pin Curls

Double Prong Only yes No

Stem Mobility Full stem curl No stem curl Half stem curl

Blow Dry or Thermal Styling

Classic Styling Brush Half round rubber base 7 or 9 rows Nylon tipped bristles Heat resistant Smoothing and removing tangles Blow drying w/little volume

Grooming Brush Oval w/boar and nylon bristles Boar helps distribute scalp oils Nylon stimulates Circulation Adding polish and shine-fine to med. Hair Great for Updo’s

Vent Brush Ventilated design speeds up blow drying Adds lift at the scalp; especially fine hair Use in beginning to remove water

Round Brush Different diameters Hair should wrap around only twice Smaller will add curl Medium –lift hair at scalp Larger for beveling ends /straightening Metal bases are heated by dryer

Combs and picks Distribute and part hair Variety of sizes to adapt to many styling options Teeth closely spaced together create smooth surface Larger spaced teeth create more textured surfaces and are used for larger areas

Sectioning clips Metal or plastic Some have long prongs others clamp with teeth Hold hair in place when working or cutting Do not let wet sectioned hair sit on dried hair

Styling Products Liquid tools Hold, shine and body to styles Greatly enhance a style Consider type of hair: fine-coarse? Heavy products cause hair to cling adding definition Weigh down the hair Foam/fine hair

Foam or Mousse Light airy whipped product: Builds volume and body Massage into damp hair Good for fine hair Holds 6 to 8 hours Conditioning foams for dry hair

Gel Heavier product Strongest control for molded or slicked styles Long lasting body May overwhelm fine hair Liquid gels aka texturizers: lighter less viscous; good for all hair types

Straightening Gel Apply to damp hair For wavy to extremely curly Creates smooth styles All hair types: provides most hold in outdoor conditions Show clients: put on hands when styling

Volumizers Spray at base of scalp prior to blow drying Adds volume and body Can add light gel or mousse to hair ends

Pomade AKA Wax adds weight Causes hair to stick together: dry hair Hair easily molded

Silicone or Shine Products Adds glossy sheen; creates texture Non-oily to add finish and shine or to protect during styling Gloss w/o weight

Hair Spray Aka finishing spray Holds hair in shape Most widely used product Aerosol and pump Variety of holding strengths

Preparation Thermal Style Shampoo-double towel method Towel dry Remove tangles wide tooth comb Replace drape with neck strip/ cape Apply liquid products Begin removing water from hair Section-begin styling

Diffusing long, curly natural hair Drape- shampoo Shampoo- condition- remove tangles w/wide tooth comb Re-drape w/neck strip –cape Styling product and comb Section hair attach diffuser Lift hair let sit on top of diffuser Gently run fingers thru hair being diffused

Blow Drying Straight or Wavy Shampoo apply volumizing spray or mousse Use vent brush to remove water Section up hair-begin at bottom Working nape to crown Direct airflow from scalp to ends Work in sections Blow dry follows the brush

Hair Wrapping Great smoothing and straightening technique to use without heated tools Can be used on any hair type Produces long lasting results Can be done wet or dry Extremely curly hair should be relaxed first If looking for more height on top: Place a few large rollers on top and wrap the bottom

Hair Wrapping Techniques Applying a light gel will help hold the style when dry If dry, use a silicone product for gloss Wrap hair in clockwise direction Once finished use a neck wrap to hold the style in place with a bobby pin Place client under hooded dryer for 45 minutes If dry, let sit for 17 minutes

Marcel Irons Rod- fixed, shell movable, handle and swivel

Thermal Curling Irons -Marcel Waving Good quality steel Used on dry hair Conventional- Stove heated- used excessively curl hair Electric- most common ½ -3’’ barrel Electric Vaporizing- small amount of water added to create steam

Types……

Barrel Sizes

Types of Thermal Iron Curls Spiral- winding strand around rod suitable for long or medium lengths End curls- smooth finished appearance to hair ends Figure 6 loop end on outside of iron Fig. 8- 1st loop on inside or iron, 2nd loop on outside; same as fig. 6 Barrel- hold hair end in left hand rotate iron with right hand until end disappears

Curl Bases Volume Based Curls-135o maximum- Full Base Curls- 125o; volume sits high on base Full Base Curls- 125o; strong curl with volume Half Base Curl 90o; strong curl, moderate lift Off Base Curl- 70o; curl w/slight lift ALL CURLS START 2” FROM BASE; HEAT STRAND FOR 5 SECONDS TO SET THE BASE

Testing Hot Tools After heating iron test on white paper or cloth Clamp heated iron on cloth wait 5 sec. If scorches too hot Wait a minute to cool down Might scorch or discolor white hair

Temperature No one temp for all hair Temperature will depend on texture of the hair Hair that has been chemically treated or colored should use gentle heat As a rule, coarse & grey hair can withstand more heat than fine hair

SAFETY Practice on a COLD iron first!!! Do not over heat irons Rolling the iron in your hand forward first, then backward! Do not over heat irons Keep irons clean Test temperature before use Use only hard rubber comb (not Celluloid) Do not allow hair ends to protrude Lower setting on lightened or tinted hair Do not use metal combs (burn scalp)

Flat Irons Two heated plates; range from ½” to 3” across Smooth or straighten hair Edges can be used to bend hair Inner edge is nearest stylist Constant even heat

Care of Thermal Irons Electrical Irons Non-Electrical Irons Wipe down the barrel with soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia Wait till cool Never over heat Non-Electrical Irons Immerse cold-iron barrel in solution

Always Remember: How are we going to practice rolling our irons? How will we clean our thermal irons? When do we use non-electrical thermal irons? What is another name for thermal waving?