1. Meet the Rabbit
By Kari Anderson

2. A Little Bit of Rabbit History
Thousands of years ago, rabbits were only found in parts of Africa and Europe
Rabbits were introduced to other parts of the world and came to North America (from Asia) about 40-million years ago
They now live on every continent except for Antarctica

3. Some Bunny Basics… There are 2 main types of Rabbits found in nature
North American Rabbits
Also called “New World” Rabbits
Most common in North America is the “Cotton-Tail” Rabbit
Tail looks like a ball of cotton
European Rabbits (1st lived in Europe & Africa)
Also called “Old World” Rabbits
Most pet rabbits are of European
There are 28 different species of rabbits in the world
Small mammals that are covered with fur
Belong to the family Leporidae
Known for their large ears and short, fluffy tails
Hoppers not walkers
Able to leap up to 15 feet (4.5 meters)

4. …more Bunny Basics
In nature, Rabbits are often hard to see because they can stay still for very long periods of time
The color of their fur blends in with their surroundings
Common colors are gray, brown, reddish-brown, black, or white
Nocturnal Creatures
Come out to feed at twilight/night
Darkness helps hide them from predators
Like to stay close to their shelters
Sleep and hide during the daylight hours

6. A wide variety of animals hunt rabbits, among their most common predators are foxes, bobcats, owls, hawks, snakes, skunks, weasels, raccoons, dogs, and cats. As a defense against these predators, rabbits have several features that help them avoid or escape their enemies.
Ears
Best defense against danger
Very long ears & excellent hearing
Rotate easily & allows them to pick up the tiniest of sounds
Can rotate one-at-a-time…or together
Eyes
Large eyes that are set wide-apart for a wide-range of vision
Excellent eyesight
Can sleep with their eyes open
Nose
Keen sense of smell
Always twitching their noses to pick up nearby scents
Hind Legs
Much longer than their front to help them get away
Mostly hop but can jump up to 15 feet in one stride
Bottoms of feet are covered with hair hiding the long claws that extend from their toes
Tails
Also called ‘scuts’
Cottontail rabbits are named for the white fur on the underside of their tails
Flash the white as a danger signal to other rabbits when fleeing from a predator
The Rabbits Body

7. Environment Different Cotton-Tails live in different regions
Eastern Cottontail
Has the widest range; lives all over the US east of the Rocky Mountains.
Also found in southern parts of Canada & some northern parts of Mexico
Mountain Cottontail
Lives in some SW parts of Canada & several western states in the US
Desert Cottontail
Lives in many western states

8. Warrens, Forms and Burrows
Rabbits can adapt to many places which is how they are able to live in many kinds of habitats
Such as forests, grasslands, prairies, deserts, brushy areas
Live on mountains and in the cold arctic
Live in cities, where they east lawns & gardens and find shelter in shrubs
Live in any field that has hiding places
Rabbits pretty much live anywhere they can hide from enemies
Most European rabbits are social, friendly, animals and live with other rabbits in a maze of tunnels called ‘warrens’
Warrens are underground dens
Generally around 10’ deep & cover a large area of land
Has many entrances & rooms

9. Warrens, Forms and Burrows
North American Rabbits, not very social, however, they do let their homes ranges overlap
They generally Rabbits stay within a home range of about 10 acres of land
Some males may wander much farther
Rabbits live near water when they can
Great swimmers and can take to the water if being chased by a predator
Unlike European ‘old world’ rabbits, most cottontails ‘new world’ rabbits do not build burrows
Instead, they dig small depressions in the ground called Forms
Rest in here during daylight hours
Winter months, they may take over abandoned woodchuck burrows
Desert cottontails use skunk & prairie-dog burrows
Tunnel a network of paths underground to travel safely
Not out in the open with nowhere to hide if danger strikes

10. What Do Rabbits Eat? Rabbits are plant-eaters; herbivores
In the Spring, Summer, and Autumn months
Grass, leaves, flowers, buds, shoots, stems, clovers, etc.
In the Winter months when food is harder to find
Buds, twigs and several different kinds of tender tree bark
Since Rabbits like to eat Clover, some gardeners will plant clover near their garden, this way the rabbits will eat the clover instead of their flowers and vegetables.
When feeding out in the open, rabbits are exposed to predators, their digestive system helps them cope with this risk
They are able to eat quickly and fill their stomachs
Return to their safe-spot where they,
Produce fecal waste, or droppings, this first pass is partially digested food
Soft, moist, and contains important minerals that the rabbit needs
They eat these pellets
When the rabbits completely finishes its meat, they will poop again
This second round is hard and dry
Usually done outside the rabbits den
They do not eat these hard pellets

11. The Mating Game
Rabbits are polyestrous and can breed any time of the year
Busiest mating season is between February and October
Males are called ‘bucks’
Lack a penis bone
Jump in the air and challenge each other for the companionship of the female
Does & Bucks will chase each other playfully as part of their courtship process
Females are called ‘does’
Able to become pregnant by 4 to 8 months of age
Can have many litter each year
Generally 4 or 5
Each litter usually produces between 5 and 8 young
Gestation period is 28 to 32 days
Shortly before her babies are born, the pregnant doe builds a birthing nest
The nest is a shallow form that she lines with soft leaves and tufts of her own belly fur
Makes it a cozy nest spot for her babies
When out finding food, the doe covers her nest with grasses & leaves to protect her young from predators

12. The Rabbit Life Cycle
The young, or babies, are called kittens, or ‘kits’
Kits are born helpless and small
Usually weigh about 1oz and are about 4” long
Born blind and without any hair
Eyes stay closed for about a week
Grow hair within about 10 days
Nursed once a day for about 2 weeks
Except for Mountain Cottontails, they are nursed for about a month
Ready to leave the nest when they are 14 to 16 days old
Still eat, sleep, and play together
At about a month old (4 to 5 weeks), they go off on their own
Kits become full grown at about 4 months old and are then considered to be a Buck or a Doe
Ready to breed by the following Spring, if not sooner depending on the time of year

13. The Circle of Life
*Rabbits have a very high death rate due to disease and their many predators
**But they reproduce very quickly…they often mate again shortly after giving birth

14. Rabbit Restraint 101
A struggling rabbit is prone to serious injury, especially to its spine, and can bite and scratch the person trying to restrain it. Rabbits are usually passive and easy to handle, but they are prey animals with a natural instinct to bolt when frightened or stressed. With proper restraint increases the rabbit's sense of security and lowers the chance of it injuring itself.
Lift the rabbit from its cage or pet carrier, fully supporting its hind quarters with your hand. Protecting the powerful back legs is extremely important because they are very strong. Rapid kicking from a scared rabbit can cause dislocations and fractures to the back and induce paralysis in both rear legs. Top opening cages are recommended for rabbits to reduce the chance of them leaping out, but if using a side opening model and the rabbit is reluctant to emerge, grasp the loose skin around its neck and very gently pull it to the front of the cage. Take care not to lift the rabbit while holding it by the scruff of the neck. Cradle the rabbit in the football hold to get it out of the cage and continue that hold while it’s out of the cage.

15. Rabbit Restraint 101
Place the rabbit on the examination table, fold one hand around its rump and rest your other hand across its shoulders. This protective stance keeps some rabbits calm, but others remain safer when swaddled in a "bunny burrito." Lay a towel or blanket over the rabbit's back and wrap it around its body, making sure to secure all four feet. Speaking softly to a rabbit while covering its eyes and stroking its fur may help it into a relaxed, hypnotic-like trance, making it much easier to handle the animal. Resist trying to overpower a kicking and thrashing rabbit; set it on the floor instead. Rabbits feel most secure when their feet are on the ground. Do not drop a rabbit that is fighting you, as you can cause injury’s to the rabbit.
Return the rabbit to its cage by carefully guiding its hind quarters into the cage first. Brace the back legs with study hand support. Maneuver the rest of the animal's body inside and secure the latch. Avoid lifting or trying to restrain a rabbit by its ears, tail or limbs. This can cause injury to the animal and will likely instigate a tussle. Struggling rabbits can easily break their own bones as they attempt to escape. They are also very fast and will probably outrun you.
If using a restrainer place the rabbits hind end in first, then gently place it’s front end in and fasten the front of the restrainer