1. Marine Aquaria Set-up and maintaining a Salt Water Fish Tank

2. Aquaria  People have been trying to keep fishes as pets for centuries  Most people keep fresh water fishes. They say “they are easier to take care of.”  An aquarium is not “a little piece of the sea transplanted” or “a miniature ocean”

3.  Oceans are very stable in terms of temperature, pH, chemical ions etc.  Most marine organisms are very sensitive to change

4. Aquaria Types  All glass only  Place on flat, sturdy surface  Not near radiator or other heat source  Once filled (even ¼ full), DO NOT MOVE!

5. Nitrogen  Nitrogen  Starts out as ammonia –Major waste of most aquatic animals  Nitrifiers – bacteria – convert ammonia to nitrite then to “non-toxic” nitrate  The bacteria are found on aquarium walls and on the gravel surface  Undergravel filters make use of these bacteria  Nitrate – 20 ppm is ideal, but up to 200 ppm is OK

6. pH  pH  Ocean pH ranges from 8.4 – 7.5  typically 8.2 – 8.4  Aquariums tend to lower pH  pH of 8.1 – 8.3 is OK for an aquarium

7. pH  can be changed by several factors –respiration of animals in the tank –effect of accumulated nitrate ions –oxidation of wastes  can be buffered by addition of calcium carbonate  Calcareous gravel – dolomite, oyster shells

8. Phosphates  Decomposing metabolic wastes  Uneaten food  Dead plants and animals  Toxic

9. Organic Material  Wastes  Uneaten food  Aquariums take on a yellow color of the water

10. Feeding:  do not overfeed  better to underfeed than overfeed  excess food – decreases oxygen, clouds tank  brine shrimp are a good idea (Turn off filter for a couple hours when feeding fish with brine shrimp)

11.  Don’t be in a big rush to add animals to the tank. It must be set up and ready.  Add only a few animals at first then wait.  Don’t overcrowd the tank.

12. Filters  3 Types: –Mechanical  Takes particles out of the water – most common – power filter with “floss” –Biological  Undergravel Filter  “Bio-Wheels” –Chemical  Protein Scrubber  Charcoal

13. Substrate:  Gravel  Oyster shells, dolomite (helps buffer pH)  Wash the gravel prior to putting it in the tank

14.  Cleaning filter  none required with undergravel  Change others when filter floss becomes dark  Cleaning the sides of the aquarium

15. Run-In  It is necessary to establish a “biological filter” in the form of nitrifying bacteria  they settle on the surface of the filtrant and begin to multiply  to get the nitrifiers, you add one or two “hardy” marine animals and then wait 12 – 15 days  Now you can stock the aquarium  NOTE: Just setting up an aquarium and letting it run for 12-15 days will not do it. You need to add animals first.

16.  Decorations  Looks good & provides place for animals to hide in  Coral, shells, rocks, etc.  Wash first  NO METAL

17. Water:  Two Choices:  Filtered sea water or artificial sea salts and fresh water  Why use one instead of the other?  Fill to about one inch from top  Mark with magic marker or wax pencil level of water – Why?

18. Heater?  If tropical fish are to be kept, use a heater  Most cold water marine animals do fine without a heater or cooling

19.  Organism very difficult to keep include: –Algae –Plants –Sponges –Squid –snapper bluefish –sea robin –Herring –Menhaden –Silversides  Clams, mussels, oysters are not a good idea either

20.  Aquarium scrubber, magnets, scrapper  Most marine animals can adapt to gradual changes in water, but not rapid changes  Discuss how aquaria are made – glass, fiberglass shell with wood, lookdown, etc…

21. Ranges  Salinity ideal is 1.021 – 1.023 specific gravity (29-32 psu)  DO – 5 ppm minimum  Temp – 10º - 18ºC (50º-65ºF)  Nitrate – 20 ppm is ideal, but up to 200 ppm is OK  pH should be 8.1 – 8.3