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History of fashion in Australia
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Introduction When the First Fleet arrived in Australia, the living conditions were totally different from those in England. The climate was hot and dry and the environment was harsh. Unfortunately, the people still wore the same clothes as they did in England. It took over 200 years for the more practical clothing to develop. Women’s clothing has had drastic changes during this time. Men’s fashion has also changed, however not so greatly. They have had modifications on shirts and pants.
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1788-1800 Fashion was that of England and France
Convict men and women were poorly dressed and wore the same clothes for many days Convicts were issued with uniforms, but it was difficult to clothe all convicts in the uniform as it was hard to get supplies from England. Female convicts – brown serge jacket, petticoat, neckerchief, cap, linen shift, stockings and shoes Male convicts – blue jacket and waistcoat, heavy duty trousers, linen shirt, long socks, woollen cap Just before the turn of the century, the pannier was abolished and the dress became much more simple – women gave up some of their underskirts to create a more sensible and comfortable clothing style.
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Women Men Pannier skirts – high, wide and voluminous skirts Underskirts – decorated with ribbons and frills Low neck bodice Plain for working class – also wore an apron and mop hat Upper class – wore fine fabrics with scarves and parasols Hats were high-crowned and decorated with lace and ribbons Cabbage tree hat first appeared in 1799 Upper class – skirted coats, close-fitting breaches, richly embroidered waistcoats, white silk stockings and wigs, also powdered their hair
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Fashion was still based on those of England and France, however they began to suit the Australian environment Women Men Long flowing empire line for the fashion-conscious women Bodices had low neck line and short sleeves Skirts were long and flowing with much less volume Pantaloons or tights replaced petticoats Shawls and parasols were as a fashion statement and sun protection Working class – smocks and aprons (skirts were still long flowing) Upper class – fashion remained unchanged Free settler men – trousers, loose-sleeved shirts, leather aprons, long socks, leather boots, cabbage tree hats
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French fashion influences continued, with a more romantic look for females Females Males Empire line was still popular Skirt became narrower and straighter Hemlines became flared with flounces Skirt length was raised to the ankle Round-toed shoes, boots or sandals with pink stockings Puffed sleeves and decorative trimmings Very high hats Trousers became popular Convicts were issued with loose trousers and jackets made from coarse woollen cloth
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Fashion started to turn back in time and was influenced by the 16th century, regardless of the harsh Australian climate. Females Males Tight corsets were worn Skirts became full and wide – hourglass figure Bustles were worn at the back Hemlines reached the ground and decorated with frills and lace Leg-of-mutton sleeves – tight between wrist and elbow and full at the shoulder Muffs were carried, fans essential Hats were very large and highly decorated with feathers, flowers and ribbon Shoes – square-toed, half boots, buttoned or laced just above the ankle White trousers Knee-length jackets tightened at the waist Top hats, same colour as jackets Cravats replaced collars Stocks carried by upper class Working class – same as previous
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1830 - 1840 Females Males Wide skirts, covering layers of petticoats
Hemlines raised just above the ground Waistlines tight and pointed Bodices wide and low for evening wear During the day – necklines were covered with ruffs and frills Wide flat collars worn over the shoulders Capes worn outdoors Muffs, fans, flowers and leg-of-mutton sleeves still popular Lower class – reflected the fashions of the upper class but simplified styles, duller colours, practical fabrics Trousers – tight fitting or worn loose over boots Double-breasted frock-coat Dark colours
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1840 - 1850 Females Males Longer, wider skirts Horsehair crinoline
Low-pointed waistlines, low pointed bodices Sleeves were tight-fitting all the way from the shoulder Shawls were popular and fringed Bonnets worn as sun protection and tied under the chin Off-the-shoulder evening wear Frock coat still fashionable but worn over the top of a contrasting waistcoat Trousers varied in shape
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The discovery of gold led to the gold rush in Australia. People came from all over the world, bringing their own ideas and ways of life, greatly influencing women’s fashion. Petticoats and horsehair crinolines could not create the widths that women wanted from their skirts. Cage-like crinolines were made of steel and whalebone and were sewn into petticoats to provide support for skirts. Some skirts reached ridiculous widths and became a problem for women to wear. In Paris and Europe, brighter colours became fashionable, so brighter clothing was introduced into Australian fashion.
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1850 - 1860 Females Males Very wide skirts
Steel and whalebone crinolines Long pantaloons with lace and frills Sleeves varied in shape Bonnets decreased in size Bright colours Remained much the same Gold diggers – dark blue shirt, trousers, boots, neck scarf, wide-brimmed hat. Loose fitting sleeves that were rolled at the sleeves, trousers tucked into books.
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1860 – 1870 Steel crinolines were still popular with skirts of enormous sizes. Brighter colours continued to grow in popularity. The ‘Sydney Sac’ was introduced in male fashion and was acceptable for town wear. In the bush, men wore sensible clothes to protect them from the environment. Bushranging was big in this era and they wore similar clothes to bushmen.
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1860 – 1870 Females Males Skirts became enormous – they were flatter at the front but fuller at the back Skirts often had long trains of fabric at the back Steel and whalebone crinolines still used Fitted bodice and tight waistlines Necklines – low for evening, high for daytime Bright colours Hats – tall with small brims High-heeled boots with bright coloured stockings Full frock-coats Short jackets that buttoned only at the neck Matching colours for trousers and coats ‘Sydney Sac’ - loose fitting coat and baggy trousers Bushmen –Loose fitting shirt, buckskin trousers, boots and wide-brimmed cabbage tree hat
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This decade was the beginning of fashion being designed to meet people’s needs. Females Males Width of skirt disappeared – skirts were still flat at front and full at the back A bustle was worn under the skirt to create fullness Tight fitting bodice – narrow waists Polonaise – long buttoned coat-gown which was buttoned to the waist then falling into a skirt. The skirt was split and each front was pulled back so you could see the underskirt Hats and bonnets smaller but highly decorated Bright colours Stockings colours matched dress colours. Narrower trousers Jackets and trousers contrasted in colour Breeches were introduced for bicycle riding Working men - anything was acceptable as long as it was comfortable
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1880 – 1890 Female Male Bustles became more extreme
‘Langtry’ bustle – made of metal bands that rose when a woman sat down and dropped back into place when she stood up, making sitting easier. It made dresses look very full at the back. Evening wear – highly decorated Day wear – more masculine Long plain buttoned coats completely covered outfits Hats and bonnets were high Black stockings replaced bright ones. Much the same as previous decades Sporting clothes became more popular
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1890 - 1900 A complete change in fashion occurred Female Male
Bustle disappeared Corselette appeared – simple, ankle length petticoat without frills Closer fitting dresses Floor length skirt Daytime – high necked and long-sleeved Night – elaborate, low necklines, short sleeves, off the shoulder Embroidered and coloured stockings Dark colours Dark suit with waistcoat Bowler hat fob watch Larrikins – people who would not conform to dress codes (male and female)
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