2. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chapter 12 Basics of Chemistry

3. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Why study Chemistry?  Without an understanding of basic chemistry you would not be able to use professional products effectively and safely  Every product used in the salon and in cosmetology services contains some type of chemical  With an understanding of chemistry, you will be able to troubleshoot and solve common problems you may encounter with chemical services.

4. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chemistry The science that deals with the composition, structures, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different conditions. Boiling water thrown into the air of -11 F

5. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Organic Chemistry The study of substances that contain carbon, which allows them to burn All living or formerly alive things contain carbon. Organic does not always mean natural or safe.

6. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Inorganic Chemistry The study of substances that do not contain the element carbon but may contain the element hydrogen. silcone cement rock

7. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Matter Anything that occupies space; has physical and chemical properties; and exists as either a solid, liquid, or gas

8. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Elements Simplest form of matter Cannot be reduced without loss of identity At least 90 naturally occurring Identified by a letter symbol- All matter in the universe is made up of the different chemical elements. Symbols for all elements can be found in the Periodic Table of Elements.

9. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. COHNS C OHNSC OHNS Carbon Oxygen Hydrogen Nitrogen Sulfur ========== Represent the most common elements in living organisms; whose covalent combinations make up most biological molecules on Earth.

10. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Elements are Pure substances Pure substance – is matter with a fixed chemical composition, definite proportion and distinct properties. 2 types are elements and compounds.

11. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Atoms and Molecules ATOMS: The particles from which all matter is composed; smallest particle of an element capable of showing the properties of that element. MOLECULES: Result of two or more atoms that are joined together. Elemental molecule: Contains two or more atoms of the same element Compound molecule: Chemical compounds of two or more atoms of different elements.

12. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Matter = occupies space Elements = simplest form of matter Atoms = smallest particle of an element Molecules = 2 or more atoms

13. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. States of Matter Solid: has shape, volume, weight (ice) Liquid: has volume and weight, no shape (water) Gas: has no volume or shape (steam) All matter exists in three different physical forms: solid, liquid, or gas. Matter takes on one of these forms or states depending on its temperature.

14. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. States of Matter (continued)

15. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Physical and Chemical Properties Physical: determined without a chemical reaction (color, odor, weight, density) Chemical: determined with a chemical reaction (change identity — rusting iron, burning wood)

16. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Physical Change The form is changed without becoming a new substance. Example: Solid ice melts and becomes water. NO chemical reaction involved. Ex. Temporary haircolor

17. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chemical Change A change in the chemical composition or makeup of a substance. Example: Burning wood turns into ashes. A nail rusting

18. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Oxidation A chemical reaction that combines a substance with oxygen to produce an oxide. Example: Wood turns into charcoal after it has burned and the nail into rust. Substance + Oxygen = chemical reaction or (Oxidation)

19. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Oxidation-Reduction Also known as redox. A chemical reaction in which the oxidizing agent is reduced (by losing oxygen) and the reducing agent is oxidized (by gaining oxygen).redox REDOX FACT….It always occurs at the same time.

20. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Oxidizing Agent A substance that releases oxygen Hydrogen peroxide (an oxidizing agent) can be thought of as water with an extra atom of oxygen. Reducing Agent A substance that adds hydrogen to a chemical compound or subtracts oxygen from the compound

21. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Reduction The process by which oxygen is subtracted from or hydrogen is added to a substance through a chemical reaction Oxidation and reduction (redox) reactions always occur at the same time.

22. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Exothermic Reaction A chemical reaction when heat is released An example of an exothermic reaction is a nail product that hardens (polymerizes) to create nail enhancements.

23. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Combustion Rapid oxidation of a substance accompanied by the production of heat and light Example: Lighting a match is an example of rapid oxidation.

24. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pure Substances and Physical Mixtures Pure substances - Matter with a fixed chemical composition and distinct properties. Physical mixtures - Substances made up of elements combined physically rather than chemically. Ingredients do not change their properties. For example, concrete is a mixture of sand, gravel, and cement; the sand and gravel, are held together by the cement, but they retain their identities and can be picked apart.

25. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pure Substances A chemical combination of matter in definite (fixed) proportions Examples: atoms, elements, elemental molecules, and compound molecules Distilled water results from the combination of two atoms of hydrogen and one atom of oxygen in fixed proportions Water that comes out of a faucet is not pure water.

26. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Physical Mixtures A physical combination of matter in any proportions Examples: Concrete is a mixture of sand, gravel, and cement. Air is a mixture of gases (nitrogen and oxygen).

27. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions Solution: a blend of two or more liquids or a solid dissolved in a liquid Solute: the dissolved substance in a solution (add-in solid) Solvent: the substance that dissolves another substance to form a solution with no change in chemical composition SolventSoluteSolution +=

28. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions (continued) Miscible liquids: Mutually soluble; can be mixed with each other in any proportion without separating (e.g., water and alcohol). Immiscible liquids: Not capable of being mixed (e.g., oil and water). Suspension: A state in which solid particles are distributed throughout a liquid medium. They have a tendency to separate over time (e.g., salad dressings, which often have to be shaken well before using to mix thoroughly).

29. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Emulsion: mixture of two or more immiscible substances united with a binder Emulsion: Emulsifier: ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend Emulsifier: Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions (continued)

30. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Surfactants Substances that act as a bridge to allow oil and water to mix, or emulsify. The term is a contraction for “surface active agent.” Surfactant head: Hydrophilic, or water loving and dissolves in water. Surfactant tail: Lipophilic, or oil loving, and dissolves in oil. Surfactant molecule: Dissolves in both oil and water and joins them together to form an emulsion.

31. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Oil in water emulsion (O/W): Oil droplets are suspended in a water base and surrounded by surfactants; their lipophilic tails point in and their hydrophilic heads point out. Oil in water emulsions usually contain a much greater amount of water than oil. Mayonnaise is O/W. Water in oil emulsion (W/O): Water droplets are suspended in an oil base and surrounded by surfactants; their hydrophilic heads point in and their lipophilic heads point out. Water forms the internal portion of a W/O emulsion; there is a much greater amount of oil than water. Cold cream is an example of a W/O emulsion. Oil and water are ….>immiscible

32. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Differences Among Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions

33. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Other Physical Mixtures OINTMENTS: Semisolid mixtures made with any combination of petrolatum (petroleum jelly), oil, and wax, including ointments, pastes, pomades, and styling waxes. POWDERS: A physical mixture of two solids. Free-flowing powders are rarely found in cosmetics; powders that tend to stick together, such as talc, are more common.

34. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Common Product Ingredients VOLATILE ALCOHOLS: Evaporate easily; examples are isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and ethyl alcohol (hair spray and alcoholic beverages). FATTY ALCOHOLS: Cetyl and cetearyl alcohols are nonvolatile oils that are used as conditioners. ALKANOLAMINES: Substances used to neutralize acids or raise the pH of many hair products. Often used in place of ammonia. AMMONIA Colorless with a pungent odor Composed of nitrogen and hydrogen; in a water solution, it is called ammonia water. Used to raise the pH (potential hydrogen) in permanent waving, haircoloring, and lightening substances. Raising the pH softens and swells the cuticle, allowing solution to penetrate the hair shaft.

35. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Common Product Ingredients GLYCERINE Sweet, colorless, oily substance Used as a solvent and moisturizer SILICONES: Used as hair conditioners and water-resistant lubricants for the skin. They are less greasy than many other oils and can impart a silky, smooth feel to skin and give shine to hair. VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS: VOCs are two or more elements combined chemically (compounds) that contain carbon (organic) and evaporate quickly (volatile). The most common VOC used in hair sprays is ethyl alcohol.

36. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Potential Hydrogen (pH) pH is an abbreviation used for potential hydrogen The small p represents a quantity. The capital H represents the hydrogen ion. Understanding pH and how it affects the hair, skin, and nails is essential to understanding all salon services.

37. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Why is understanding the pH scale important for a Cosmetologist? 1.Knowledge of how products work 2. Be able to choose products for specific procedures 3. How to mix products

38. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Potential Hydrogen and Ions Ion: atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge Anion: ion with a negative electrical charge Cation: ion with a positive electrical charge Ionization: temporary separation of a substance into ions 1.PH is only possible because of ionization or water. 2. Aqueous solutions have PH Ex. Water 3.Non- Aqueous solutions do not have PH Ex. oil and alcohol

39. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Water and pH Hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic. Taste sour Hydroxide ion (OH-) is alkaline. Taste bitter In pure water, some of the water molecules naturally ionize into hydrogen ions and some into hydroxide ions. The pH scale measures those ions. Without water, there is no pH.

40. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. The pH Scale Scale: 0 – 14 pH of 7 is neutral Pure water contains the same number of hydrogen ions as hydroxide ions. It is neutral, being 50 percent acidic and 50 percent alkaline. The pH scale is logarithmic, meaning a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH.

41. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Alpha Hydroxy Acids pH below 7 Turn litmus paper from blue to red Derived from plants (mostly fruit) Used to exfoliate skin and help adjust the pH of a lotion or cream Contract and harden hair (thioglycolic acid used in permanent waving solutions)

42. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Acids pH below 7 Turn litmus paper from blue to red Contract and harden hair; thioglycolic acid is used in permanent waving. Owe their chemical relativity to the hydrogen ion (H+).

43. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Alkalis pH above 7 Known as base Turn litmus paper from red to blue Feel slippery and soapy on skin Soften and swell hair - sodium hydroxide, commonly known as lye, is a very strong alkali used in chemical drain cleaners and chemical hair relaxers. Owe their chemical relativity to the hydroxide ion (OH-).

44. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Acids and Alkalis Review FACT: When acids and alkalis are mixed together in equal proportions, they neutralized each other. Acids Hydrogen H*Alkalis or Base Hydroxide OH- Lower pH then 7.0pH is above 7.0 Taste SourTaste Bitter Contract and hardens hairSoftens and swells hair Thioglycolic acid is used in permanent waving Sodium hydroxcide or lye is used in chemical straightens

45. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Summary and Review What is chemistry? Why is a basic understanding of chemistry important to a cosmetologist? What is the difference between organic and inorganic chemistry?

46. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. What is matter? What is an element? What are atoms? Explain the difference between elemental molecules and compound molecules. Give examples. Summary and Review (continued)

47. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Name and describe the three states of matter. What are the physical and chemical properties of matter? Give examples. What is the difference between physical and chemical change? Give examples. Summary and Review (continued)

48. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Explain oxidation-reduction (redox). Explain pure substances and physical mixtures. Give examples. What is the difference between solutions, suspensions, and emulsions? Give examples. Define pH and the pH scale. Summary and Review (continued)