1. Aquariums come in four main types divided by salinity and then further divided into other types
Freshwater – salinities less than 0.5 ppt.
Saltwater – contains water and organisms found in the ocean at salinities of ppt.
Brackish water – organisms from estuaries were freshwater from rivers or streams mix with saltwater. Most are maintained at ppt.
Brine – Brine shrimp (sea monkeys) kept at salinities above 50 ppt.

2. Freshwater Tanks - Community
Most commonly kept aquarium at 10 gallons or above.
Fish are non-aggressive towards other species or their own species
Examples include:
Mollies
Platys
Guppies
Tetras
Most fish at the pet store!

3. Freshwater Tanks – Semi-Aggressive
Fish that can be aggressive towards other species or their own species.
Require larger tanks with smaller numbers and more places to hide.
Examples
Oscars
Freshwater puffers
Goldfish

4. Freshwater Tanks – Specialty Tanks
Betta
Highly aggressive; single fish in small tank with little or no filtration.
Cichlid
Aggressive toward non-cichlid species.
Highly colorful
From only 3 Lakes in Africa
Slider
Freshwater green turtles
Need something to come out of water onto
Koi
Usually kept in indoor or outdoor ponds
Fast growers

5. Saltwater Tanks – Coral Reef
Organisms that are common to the coral reefs of the Caribbean Sea, Indonesia, or the Great Barrier Reef.
Corals (real or fake) are needed for structure and shelter.
Organisms include
Angelfish
Anemones
Clownfish
Damsels
Tangs
Wrasse

6. Saltwater Tanks – Live Rock
Organisms found around rocky features.
Rocks contain organisms that help maintain water quality.
Examples include
Anemones
Eels
Cleaner Shrimp
Tube worms
Lionfish

7. Saltwater Tanks – Sand and Round
Organisms found in areas with sandy bottoms
Often contain plants (fake usually)
Calcium based sand such as crushed coral (not river sand)
Round Tanks
Needed for sensitive or high energy animals
Corners lead to injury, no corners = less injuries
Examples include
Jellyfish
Sharks
Rays

8. Brackish Tanks – Estuary Animals
Crab Tank
Pipefish
Aggressive
Seahorses
Eat almost anything
Lookdowns
Escape
Blennies
Nursery Tank
Juveniles and small fish that hatch and live in estuary.
Usually shrimp eaters.
Predator tank
Few medium sized or single large fish
Eat shrimp or live fish
Sensitive tank
Small fish that are easily attacked
Examples

9. Aquarium Set-Up
The start of a hobby…

10. First the basics: Safety
Electrocution is real; use drip loops
Wet floors are slippery- always walk with caution
Place all your school supplies safely on your desk (not the floor)
Glass aquariums are not drop, ding, shatter proof. Use caution
Follow all the instructions included in this presentation
You should be taking notes right now.
If you don’t know- ASK!

11. Aquarium Supplies

12. Materials KNOW USE/PURPOSE OF EACH!!!! Aquarium Tank Filter Air Pump
Plastic Tubing
Thermometers
Substrate
Hydrometer
Synthetic Sea Salts
Test Kits
Vacuum
Fish Net
Food
KNOW USE/PURPOSE OF EACH!!!!

13. So how should we start? Counter top- Aquarium-
Clean off and dry area where the tank will be kept.
Aquarium-
Rinse the tank thoroughly (NO SOAP or DETERGENTS)
Use only freshwater
Anything else can leave a harmful residue
This includes any cleaning materials ; brushes, sponges, rags, etc.
Dry and inspect for chips, cracks, loose sealant
Place in your assigned area

14. Substrate Rinse until water begins to run clear NO SOAP or DETERGENTS
Be sure to stir around the substrate while rinsing
Distribute substrate along bottom of the aquarium evenly (about inches deep)

15. Installing the Filter Undergravel Filter
This step will be done BEFORE adding the substrate
Clean off the under-gravel filter grate
Clean out any tubes or hoses used for the filter.
REMEMBER NO SOAP!
Assemble the filter place on bottom of aquarium
Be sure air stones, and Carbon cartridges have been installed correctly
Add substrate

16. Undergravel Filter

17. Installing the Filter Power Filter/ Biowheel
Clean all elements of the filter
Use scrub brushes, pads, and test-tube brushes
Ensure that propeller and motor are functioning properly (clean of any algae or debris)
Assemble powerfilter/ biowheel.
Hang on rear of aquarium with water intake inside of the aquarium, and basket on outside
Add charged carbon packet and filter floss

18. Power Filter

19. BioWheel

20. Decorations If you purchased or are using decorations:
Be sure you have cleaned and rinsed all decorations in freshwater
Double check for algae build-up
Clean off if found
Place on substrate where desired

21. Making the Salt H2O Use the clean 5 gallon buckets to add H2O
Add 400mL of salt to bucket
That’s two (2) 200 mL beakers
Add 5 mL of Aquarium de-chlorinator
That’s about ¼ of the top of the cap
If you’re not sure ASK!!!
Fill the bucket with water about 5
inches from the top.
Stir and let set for about a minute

22. Adding the Salt H2O Using the hydrometer, check the salinity
The salinity for a good
Salt-water tank should
be around 28 ppt
(+/- 1ppt is ok)
If it is less: more salt
is needed (not much)
If it is greater: more
freshwater is needed

23. Adding the Salt H2O
Have one person cup their hands together above the aquarium
Two other people will help steady and pour the bucket of water SLOWLY into the first person’s hands.
All water should overflow from the person’s hands and into the aquarium
Spilled water will result in low scores
This prevents stirring up the substrate you already worked on, and helps keep the water clear so it doesn’t clog your filter

24. Adding the Salt H2O
When you have finished adding the first bucket of water gauge how much more you need.
Make more buckets of water
Be sure to use the previously stated method.
Yes, Each bucket needs ALL of those ingredients EVERY TIME!!!!!
Add more buckets of water until the tank has been filled to within 1 inch of the top.
This is even with the trim piece at the top of the aquarium
If you have extra, give it to another group, DO NOT just pour it down the sink.
SALT IS EXPENSIVE, Do NOT waste!

25. Starting your Aquarium
Now you are ready to get the aquarium up and running
1st clean the surrounding area of any drops of water
This step should be quick because spilled water reduces your grade
Dry off any equipment and put away.
Be sure all Electrical Equipment and plugs are completely dry before attempting to plug them in.
When you are sure everything is clean, dry, and put away, you may proceed.

26. Starting your Aquarium
Under-gravel Filters
Attach air hoses to air pump.
Plug in air pump.
Power Filters
Make sure motor and propeller are correctly installed and in the locked position
Add water to the reservoir in the back of the filter.
Fill this reservoir until you see water running out of the front.
Plug in filter.
Replace Lid to filter when you see the siphon created in the tube.

27. Your First Specimen! Add your hermit crab(s) to your tank!
He will get the nitrogen cycle established before your new specimens reach the tank.
This will make it inhabitable for others.
Record all steps taken in your Aquarium Maintenance Journal
This will be your routine maintenance log.
EVERYTHING that you do MUST be recorded!
This accounts for a large sum of your grade the next few 6 weeks.

28. What is the nitrogen cycle?
So what’s next?
What is the nitrogen cycle?

29. Waste Control In nature, animals and plants live in open ecosystems
In aquariums, animals and plants live in closed ecosystems
What this means is that chemical reactions and accumulations occur in the aquarium that you would not find in the ocean

30. Population Density
Population density is the amount of organisms in a given space.
This factor in a natural (open) ecosystem is much lower than in an aquarium
Waste products in a natural ecosystem don’t build up as much or as quickly.
Aquariums are not as stable as the ocean

31. So how do we flush? PARTIAL WATER CHANGES
The single most important factor for a successful aquarium
100% change daily would simulate river conditions
10-50% biweekly is our goal
Removes built up dissolved waste matter like ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, HCO3-, & CO2
Replenishes trace elements

32. Types of Filtration

34. Biological Filtration
Performed by bacteria in gravel and on fish
Beneficial bacteria break down waste products in the nitrogen cycle
Substrate, undergravel filters, filter floss, biowheel provided places for these bacteria to live

35. Mechanical Filtration
Removes accumulated organic and inorganic particulates
Usually accomplished with mesh in an electric pump or gravel when an undergravel filter is used
Can also be manually removed with a gravel vacuum

36. Chemical Filtration
Purifies water using activated carbon-dissolved impurities are absorbed by holes in carbon
Activated carbon must be replaced
Minimize use of chemical/medicines to rid tank of problems

37. Sterilizing Filtration
Kills bacteria and other microorganisms
UV light- Light beyond the visible spectrum (short wavelength)

38. The Good, The Bad, The Ugly
Nitrogen
The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

39. The Good, The Bad, The Ugly
Nitrogen
The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

40. Testing – Ammonia Excreted by animal in wastes
Extremely toxic above 4 ppm (parts per million)
Ammonification: process by which decomposing bacteria convert the decaying matter into ammonia.
Bacteria are needed to convert to less toxic forms. (nitrogen cycle)
Measured using a dropper test kit (2 bottles)
Can use chemical such as Ammo Lock if levels are too high

41. Ammonia Something we have to keep a close eye on!
Makes it’s first apperance as ammonia (metabolic waste and uneaten food), which is extremely toxic to all aquatic life.
Ammonification: process by which decomposing bacteria convert the decaying matter into ammonia.

42. Testing – Nitrite Middle step of Nitrogen Cycle
Dangerous at levels above 2 ppm
Bacteria needed to continue to next step
Measured using dropper test kit (1 bottle)
Nitrosomonas, a chemosythetic bacteria, present in the aquarium oxidize the toxic ammonia into nitrite.

43. Nitrite
Nitrosomonas, a chemosythetic bacteria, present in the aquarium oxidize the toxic ammonia into nitrite.
Nitrite is not as harmful to aquatic life, but it is still harmful.
Another group of bacteria (nitrobacters) convert the nitrite to “non-toxic” nitrate-this is the final step of nitrification!

44. Testing – Nitrate Final step in Nitrogen Cycle
Another group of bacteria (nitrobacters) convert the nitrite to “non-toxic” nitrate-this is the final step of nitrification!
Dangerous at levels above 80 ppm
Measured using dropper test kit (2 bottles)
Removed from water:
Naturally by plants, algae, & photosynthetic bacteria
In closed ecosystems like ours through partial water changes

45. Nitrate
Most aquatic life can tolerate moderate levels of nitrate if it accumulates slowly.
In the ocean plants and algae help remove nitrate from water; however, in our aquariums we have a problem as we do not have any live plants. (also remember closed ecosystem)
The only sure fire way to keep nitrate, nitrite, ammonia and other toxins down is to perform a partial water change regularly.
We will go into more depth about the nitrogen cycle later on in class. It is very important that you understand this cycle completely!!

46. Other substances to monitor
Phosphate-not very toxic. Created from the decomposition of metabolic wastes, uneaten food, and dead plants and animals.
Calcium-organisms that produce skeletons, exoskeletons, or shells require a source of calcium.
Iodine and strontium-trace elements important to marine organisms. These are found in out sea salt mix that we use!
If needed we will check the level of these in your tank and add supplements if needed.

47. You’ll be recording the values of these in your journal regularly
Water Parameters
You’ll be recording the values of these in your journal regularly

48. Water Parameters Temperature pH Salinity and specific gravity
Phosphates
Ammonia/nitrite/nitrates
Trace elements
Organics

49. Temperature Freshwater Saltwater can range from 32° to 90° in nature
ideal range in classroom is degrees
How will you moderate the temperature in your aquarium?
can range from 28° to 85° in nature
ideal range in classroom varies according to your species
How will you moderate the temperature in your aquarium?

50. Testing – pH Critical to chemistry of water
Most fish have small pH tolerance range
Low range pH (most freshwater tanks)
6.8 and 7.2
High range pH (salt, brackish, and a few fresh)
8.0 and 8.4
Measured using dropper test kit (1 bottle)
Buffers resist fluctuations in pH.
Substrate (crushed coral)
Also found in sea salt mix

51. pH Freshwater Saltwater Should be maintained between 6.8- 7.2 FYI
Peat moss can lower high pHs
Baking soda can increase low pHs
Aquarium specific buffering agents are preferred
Should be maintained between
Buffers resist fluctuations in pH.
Substrate (crushed coral)
Also found in sea salt mix

53. What Does pH Mean To Your Aquarium? 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Fatal to plants and animals
What
Does pH
Mean To
Your
Aquarium?
Suited to only a few specialized species
Favorable to marine plants/animals
Favorable to freshwater plants/animals
Suitable for most plants/animals from the
tropical rain forest
Harmful to most plants and animals
Fatal to plants and animals

54. Salinity/ Specific Gravity
Freshwater
Saltwater
Salinity should be 0 ppt
Specific gravity will vary with habitat and amount of dissolved solids in the water; should be close to
Salinity of ocean habitats is ppt; estuary may vary from ppt
Specific gravity varies with salinity; ocean aquaria should be between and 1.024

55. Phosphates Freshwater Saltwater
Pollution (fertilizers, detergents, etc.)
Toxic in large concentrations
Encourages growth of algae
Decaying algae lower DO level
Range should be <.05 ppm
Pollution or breakdown of organic materials
Non-toxic to marine fish
Coat gravel preventing release of Ca and reducing buffering capacity

56. Ammonia & Dervatives Freshwater Saltwater
Caused by overfeeding, overstocking, or decay of dead fish
Controlled by plants; tolerated fairly well by animals
Range should be 0 ppm
Caused by overfeeding, overstocking, or decay of dead fish
Controlled by biological filtration and water changes
Marine fish very sensitive to even moderate levels

57. Trace Elements Freshwater Saltwater
Provided by diet, plants, bacteria, dissolving minerals in substrate
Fewer requirements than marine fish/invertebrates
Calcium range: mg/L
Provided by diet, dissolving substrate
Replenished by partial water changes of saltwater
Lack of these may shorten life span of fish and invertebrates

58. Organics
Organic matter from: fish wastes, decaying plants/algae, leftover food, dead fish or invertebrates
Controlled by mechanical filtration, water changes, current
Feed 3X per day; no more than fish can eat in 3-5 minutes
Decaying plant matter.
Plants are hard to keep alive without proper lighting
My advice use plastic plants for decoration
If you must have use a live plant choose one that grows well in shaded areas or deeper in the water

59. Aquatic Life Health
Things can get sick

60. Acclimation We cannot dump our new fish and its water into tanks
Place fish in plastic container along with its “home” water.
Add water every 5 minutes until the temperature, pH, and specific gravity of the water is the same as the aquarium.
You may “dump” fish in tank after 30 minutes.

61. Signs of Illness Clamped fins, fins held close to the body Frayed fins
Bloating (enlarged abdominal area)
Enlargement of the eyes
Erratic swimming and shimmying
Drifting close to the bottom or gasping for air at surface
Scraping themselves on plants or filters
Loss of appetite or activity
White or fuzzy spots on fins or body
Parasites on body
If an organism appears sick, it should be removed from the tank so as not to contaminate the rest of the organisms
Notify me immediately if your fish has any of these signs

62. Quarantine Tank
A tank used to isolate sick fish, or new fish from the rest of the population.
Does not need to be fancy or decorated.
Needs to be kept with the same water parameters that are kept in the main specimen tanks.
A clear hollow tube and a decoration should be provided to allow the fish to hide while recovering.

64. 37 38
Name the type of filtration each part is used for. 39