1. Tank and Coil Chiller Setup

2. Equipment list  Bleach  Aquarium (min 10 Gal)  Chiller (there are several types)  Insulated box or some kind of tank cover (You may need to make this)  Pea gravel – Enough to cover the bottom of the tank 1 ½ inches deep.  Coil Chiller  Air pump (bubbler), small air hose, air restrictor on end of small hose, water/air deflector (Recommended model – AquaClear Powerhead for 10 to 30 Gallon Aquariums)  Under gravel filter with large tube/s for air pump (bubbler)  2 five gallon buckets (One is used for new water that has been gassing off for 24 hrs and one is for waste water during water change)  1 bait bucket (bucket with air bubbler built in), D battery for bubbler  Surge protector with 2 available plugs  Thermometer, net, water siphon  Tap water conditioner (Still try to allow water to gas off for at least 24 hrs in 5 gallon bucket when doing water change.)  Fish food (supplied when picking up eggs, don’t use old food)

3. Step 1:  Disinfect everything with a bleach & water solution. (1 cup per 5 gal should be adequate) This includes:  Aquarium  Coil Chiller (Clean Coils)  Air Pump – Bubbler (Run in bleach solution)  Under-Gravel Filter And Tube/s  Gravel & Any Rocks  Thermometer, Turkey Baster, Net  Buckets, bait bucket (bubbler bucket) Rinse thoroughly to remove all bleach

4. Step 2:  When setting up tank make sure your hands are clean and free of lotion.  Setup the cover to keep eggs and fry in the dark. Using insulated sides, bottom and top instead of just a box will reduce the amount of time the chiller will need to run.  The Coil will be at the back of the tank.  If using a cardboard box leave a gap of at least 5 inches above the tank. The bubbler will splatter and then the toxins from the box will drip back in.  Cut out an area where the coil hose, the small bubbler air hose, and power cord will exit tank. Remember to cover this corner with something to keep out light.

5. Step 3:  Place under gravel filter in tank with openings towards back of tank.  Insert tubes for air pump. The first one will twist into place & the second one will slide into the first. Under Gravel Filter Large filter tube (twists into place) Second tube slides into first here

6. Step 4:  Connect water/air deflector to front of air pump first.  Then connect small air tube to same location in front of pump Small air tube Air restrictor (Reduces bubble size and noise) Water/air deflector Connection point Cone shaped adaptor for gravel filter tube Water/air deflector Small air tube

7. Step 5:  Connect cone shaped plastic piece to bottom of the pump. This will create a good connection to the large tube going into the gravel filter.  Place air pump on large gravel filter tube from previous step and attach to corner of tank Cone shaped adaptor for gravel filter tube Gravel filter tube

8. Step 6: Clamp adaptor Suction cup adaptor  There are two attachments. One is a suction cup and the other is a clamp. The suction cup is easier to install.

9. Step 7:  If you didn’t already place your aquarium inside of the insulated box you created, please do so now.  Place chiller coil into tank  Add your gravel. If your using a few larger rocks in your tank, spread them out a little. Try to use natural colored rocks and pea gravel in your tank to match a river system.

10. Step 8: Cut a small hole about 4” X 6” in the front of your box. This will be your viewing window when watching the eggs and fry. Limit light exposure to no more than 30 minutes per day. Be sure you can open and close this viewing window. Add a handle made from tape if needed. Make sure the hole is high enough to see above and below the gravel line. Viewing Window

11. Step 9:  Add tap water or drinking water.  Do not use distilled water as this will not hold oxygen.  Plug in the chiller and air pump (bubbler).  Verify chiller is set between 54° and 56°  Verify water is cooling to the correct temperature  Setup tank at least 2 weeks prior to receiving eggs. This way you can report any problems or missing pieces.