Haircoloring Procedures

Haircoloring Procedures
Cosmetology: Haircoloring Procedures Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

“Life begets life. Energy creates energy
“Life begets life. Energy creates energy. It is spending oneself that one becomes rich!” Sarah Bernhardt

Objectives Demonstrate the application techniques for temporary colors
Demonstrate the application techniques for traditional semipermanent colors Demonstrate the application techniques for demipermanent colors Demonstrate the application techniques for permanent colors Demonstrate the application techniques for lighteners LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?) When providing haircoloring services, the client consultation is of extreme importance. It is during the consultation that you create the foundation for the haircolor service and all other services that follow. You will learn about the client’s lifestyle, interests, and desires. You will evaluate the client’s hair and scalp condition and ultimately be able to provide the service that renders the desired results. The consultation is as much a scientific procedure as it is an artistic procedure. In today’s lesson, we’re going to take a close look at all the factors that will affect a successful client consultation. It has been said that 85% of your success in the field of cosmetology is a result of your personal attributes such as your personal image, your goal orientations, and very importantly, your ability to communicate effectively. Developing good communication skills will serve you well during the client consultation process. In order to provide quality haircoloring services to clients, the professional cosmetologist must follow definite procedures. You have already learned the importance of predisposition testing to ensure the client’s safety. After we have mastered our consultation procedure, we will look at the practical procedures for preliminary strand testing, traditional semipermanent haircoloring, demipermanent haircoloring, permanent haircoloring, and hair lightening. Accuracy in performing these skills in the salon will ensure your client’s safety, their confidence in your ability, and your success as a colorist. Let’s get started.

Client Consultation Book 15 minutes Client completes information card
Look directly at client Recommend two options Review procedure, cost, maintenance Book 15 minutes. Introduce yourself; welcome client; offer beverage; ensure there are no interruptions. Client completes information card. Note client’s eye and skin color, condition and length of hair, and amount of gray hair. Look directly at client. Do not look at client through the mirror. Ask leading questions, then listen while he talks. Discuss recent history of client’s hair. You might ask: Are you looking for a temporary or permanent change? Do you want color all over or just highlights? Do you see yourself with a more conservative or dramatic type of color? Have you seen _______’s hair (perhaps a celebrity). That color would look great on you. ACTIVITY: Conduct a discussion among students about other questions that might be effective in conducting a client consultation. Recommend two options. Show pictures of colors in different ranges. Review the procedure, cost, and maintenance. The client should be informed about what to expect now and long term due to the haircolor service.

Client Consultation Be honest Gain client’s approval Start service
Fill out record card Be honest; don’t promise what you can’t deliver. If corrective treatments are needed, inform client what to expect. Gain approval from client. Always get their “buy in” to what you are offering. Start the haircolor service. Follow through during service. Educate client about home care, products, rebooking for followup service, etc. Fill out client’s haircolor record. See Figure

Release Statement Primary use for explanation
RELEASE STATEMENT: Used primarily to explain to clients that if their hair is in questionable condition, it may not withstand the service (Figure 19-24). ACTIVITY: Put students in pairs and have them role play a client consultation. Have them use descriptive language when discussing products and services. For example: Use persuasive language, such as “soft, buttery blond,’’ “rich chocolate brown,’’ and “spicy, copper red.’’ Avoid words with negative connotations, such as “bleached,’’ “frosted,’’ and “roots.’’ Use positive “mood’’ words, such as “healthy-looking,’’ “richer,’’ “natural-looking,’’ “subtle.’’

Four Basic Questions What is natural level?
What is desired level and tone? Are contributing pigments revealed? What colors will create desired results? FOUR BASIC QUESTIONS: To be asked when formulating a haircolor What is the natural level? Is there any gray hair? What is the client’s desired level and tone? Are contributing pigments revealed? What colors should be mixed to get the desired results?

Mixing Permanent Color
Applicator bottle Brush and bowl MIXING PERMANENT COLOR Applicator bottle. Bottle should be large enough to hold both the color product and developer and there should be enough space for shaking product to thoroughly mix. For a 1:1 ratio, pour 1 ounce of developer into bottle and add 1 ounce of color; put top on bottle; shake gently. For 2:1 ratio, pour 2 ounces of developer into bottle; add 1 ounce of color, and mix. See Figure Brush and bowl. Use a nonmetallic mixing bowl; measure developer into bowl; add color or colors you have selected in appropriate proportions; using tint applicator brush, stir mixture until thoroughly blended.

Patch Test Select test area Cleanse area Mix small amount of product
Apply to test area Leave undisturbed for 24 hours PATCH TEST: The U. S. Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act prescribes a patch test (predisposition test) to be given 24 to 48 hours before application of an aniline derivative product to determine if client has allergies or sensitivities. Select test area. Behind ear or inside of elbow are good choices. Use mild soap to cleanse area and dry thoroughly. An area about the size of a quarter is sufficient. See Figure Mix small amount of product. Follow manufacturer’s directions. See Figure Apply product to test area with sterile cotton swab. See Figure

Patch Test Leave undisturbed Examine test area Log results
Leave undisturbed for 24 hours. Examine test area. If no signs of redness or irritation, it is safe to proceed with the color service. Log results on client information card. A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation; a positive test will show redness and a slight rash or welt, which indicates an allergy, and the service should not be provided. CAUTION: Never use aniline derivative tints on the eyebrows or eyelashes. To do so may cause blindness.

Preliminary Strand Test Required Materials
Waterproof cape Plastic clips Glass or plastic mixing bowl Spray water bottle Shampoo Towels Color brushes Protective gloves Aluminum foil or plastic wrap Client record card Selected haircolor Applicator brush or bottle Hydrogen peroxide developer HAIRCOLOR PROCEDURES: Following clearly defined procedures will ensure efficiency and the safest, most satisfactory results. PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST: Apply the haircolor formula on a small strand of hair to determine how the hair will react and how long the formula should process. Gather required materials, implements, and supplies. Waterproof cape, plastic clips, glass or plastic mixing bowl, spray water bottle, shampoo, towels, color brushes, protective gloves, aluminum foil or plastic wrap, client record card, selected haircolor, applicator brush or bottle, hydrogen peroxide developer.

Preliminary Strand Test Procedure
Do client consultation Drape client Part 2” square strand Apply mixture over Check development Rinse and dry Adjust formula, timing, or application PROCEDURE Client consultation; perform hair and scalp analysis. Drape client for haircolor service. Part off 2" square strand of hair at lower crown; fasten other hair out of the way with plastic clips. Place strand over foil or plastic wrap and apply mixture. Follow application method for color procedure you will be using. See Figure and Figure Check development at 5-minute intervals until desired color is achieved. See Figure Note timing on record card. When desired results are achieved, remove foil or plastic wrap; place towel under strand and mist with water, add shampoo and massage through. Rinse by spraying with water. Dry the strand with a towel and observe results. Adjust formula, timing, or application method as needed. Proceed with color service. 6.

Temporary Color Implements
Shampoo cape Towels Protective gloves Comb Timer Applicator bottle Temporary product Shampoo Record card TEMPORARY COLOR PROCEDURE: Many methods of application. Always follow manufacturer’s directions. One method is Procedure 44. NOTE: Hand out LP 19.1, H - 1, which contains this procedure. Have students follow along the handout as you review the steps in the procedure. When you begin a demonstration, have students put handout away as it will be distracting during the demonstration. IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES Shampoo cape, towels, protective gloves, comb, timer, applicator bottle (optional), temporary haircolor product, shampoo, record card.

Temporary Color Preparation
Do client consultation Remove and store jewelry Drape client Shampoo and towel dry PREPARATION 1. Perform client consultation. 2. Ask client to remove jewelry and store in a safe place. 3. Drape client for haircoloring service. 4. Shampoo and towel dry hair.

Temporary Color Procedure
Seat client Put on gloves Use applicator bottle Apply color Blend color Towel blot Proceed with styling PROCEDURE Make sure client is seated comfortably reclined at the shampoo bowl. Put on gloves. Use an applicator bottle as directed by instructor. Shake product thoroughly to blend any pigments that may have settled. Apply color and work it around entire head. Blend color with comb, applying more color as necessary. Do not rinse the hair. Towel blot excess product. Proceed with styling.

Temporary Color Cleanup and Sanitation
Discard supplies Close containers, wipe clean, store Sanitize implements Wash hands Record results CLEANUP AND SANITATION 1. Discard disposable supplies and materials. 2. Close containers, wipe clean, store in proper place. 3. Sanitize implements, cape, and workstation. 4. Wash hands with soap and warm water. 5. Record results on client record card and file it.

Semipermanent Implements
Applicator bottle or brush Towels Plastic cap Plastic clips Waterproof cape Cotton Protective cream SEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR: Does not contain oxidizers; deposit-only, no-lift. Remember color applied on top of existing color always creates a darker color. Hair porosity will determine how well product will “take.’’ NOTE: Procedure is found on LP 19.1, H - 1. IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES Applicator bottle or brush, towels, plastic cap (optional), plastic clips, waterproof cape, cotton, protective cream

Semipermanent Implements
Protective gloves Shampoo Record card Comb Color chart Selected color Conditioner Timer IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES (Cont’d) Protective gloves, shampoo, record card, comb, color chart, selected color, conditioner, timer.

Semipermanent Preparation
Do patch test Do client consultation Remove and store jewelry; drape client Apply protective cream Strand test PREPARATION Perform preliminary patch test 24 to 48 hours prior to service. Proceed only if test is negative. Conduct client consultation. Analyze hair and scalp. Record results on client’s record card. Ask client to remove jewelry and store in safe place. Drape client for haircolor service. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears. Perform strand test; record results on client record card.

Semipermanent Procedure
Shampoo hair Put on gloves Outline hair Make ½” partings, apply color Work through hair shaft Set timer Rinse, shampoo, condition, and style PROCEDURE Shampoo client’s hair with mild shampoo, towel dry hair. Put on gloves. Outline the hair into four sections, from ear to ear and from front center to center nape. Take ½-inch partings and apply the color to the new growth or scalp area in all four sections. After four sections are complete, work color through the rest of the hair shaft to the ends until fully saturated. Set timer to process. Follow manufacturer’s directions. Some colors require using a plastic cap. Rinse, shampoo, condition, and style. 5.

Semipermanent Color Cleanup and Sanitation
Perform cleanup and sanitation Rinse and disinfect Record results CLEANUP AND SANITATION 1. Perform cleanup and sanitation. 2. Rinse plastic bottles, bowls, and brushes and disinfect. 3. Record results on client record card and file it.

Demipermanent Haircolor
Application similar to semipermanent procedure Does not alter natural melanin or produce lift Follow manufacturer’s guidelines DEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR PROCEDURE: Or long-lasting semipermanent (no-lift deposit-only). Application is similar to semipermanent haircolor procedure. Does not alter hair’s natural Melanin or produce lift. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines. Take into account the amount of gray hair and whether the hair has previously been colored (which affects its porosity).

Permanent Color Single-process haircolor Single-process tint retouch
Virgin application Retouch application Contain lightening agent Formulated for use with 20 volume peroxide Single-process tint retouch Double-process high lift color Single-process color virgin hair Single-process color with glaze PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR Single-process haircoloring. The process that lightens and colors the hair in a single application. Virgin application. Refers to first time hair is tinted. Retouch application. Prelightening or presoftening is not required with single-process haircoloring. Most contain a lightening agent, shampoo, an aniline derivative tint, and an alkalizing agent to activate the added peroxide. Most are formulated to be used with 20-volume peroxide. Single-process tint retouch. NOTE: Procedure is found on LP 19.1, H-3. Double-process high lift color. Used when clients ask for a dramatically lighter color. Also known as two-step blonding; hair is prelightened before the depositing color is added. Offers a wider range of haircolor possibilities. Single-process color for virgin hair procedure. NOTE: Handout LP 19.1, H-2 which contains this procedure. Have students follow along the handout as you review the steps in the procedure. When you begin a demonstration, have students put handout away as it will be distracting during the demonstration. Single-process retouch with a glaze. NOTE: Hand out LP 19.1, H-3.

Single-Process Color – Virgin-Hair Implements
Waterproof cape Cotton Protective cream Protective gloves Shampoo Applicator bottle or brush Towels Plastic cap Plastic clips SINGLE-PROCESS COLOR FOR VIRGIN HAIR IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES Applicator bottle or brush, towels, plastic cap (optional), plastic clips, waterproof cape, cotton, protective cream, protective gloves, shampoo

Single-Process Color – Virgin-Hair Implements
Conditioner Timer Bowl/brush or bottle Selected color Hydrogen peroxide Record card Comb Color chart Selected color IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES (Cont’d) record card, comb, color chart, selected color, conditioner, timer, plastic or glass bowl and applicator brush or applicator bottle, selected permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide.

Single-Process Color – Virgin-Hair Preparation
Do patch test Do client consultation Remove and store jewelry; drape client Apply protective cream Do strand test PREPARATION Perform preliminary patch test 24 to 48 hours prior to service. Proceed only if test is negative. Conduct client consultation. Analyze hair and scalp. Record results on client’s record card. Ask client to remove jewelry and store in safe place. Drape client for haircolor service. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears. Perform strand test; record results on client record card.

Single-Process Color – Virgin-Hair Procedure
Part hair into four sections Apply protective cream Prepare color formula Apply color Process according to strand test Apply to scalp PROCEDURE Part dry hair into four sections. Apply protective cream to hairline and ears. Prepare the color formula for either bottle or brush application. Apply color. Begin in the section where the color change will be greatest or where hair is most resistant, usually at hairline and temple areas. Part off 1/4" subsection with the applicator. Lift subsection and apply color to the mid-shaft area. Stay at least 1/2" from the scalp, and do not go through the porous ends. HINT: Hair processes at scalp faster due to body heat; follow your strand test for best results. Process according to strand test results. Check color development by following the same steps used in strand testing. Apply color to the hair at the scalp.

Single-Process Color – Virgin-Hair Procedure
Pull through to ends Rinse Remove stains towel dry and style PROCEDURE Pull the color through onto the hair ends. Lightly rinse with lukewarm water. Massage color into a lather and rinse thoroughly. Using a towel, gently remove any stains around hairline with shampoo or stain remover. Shampoo hair; condition as needed. Towel dry and style hair. 9.

Single-Process Color – Virgin Hair Cleanup and Sanitation

Single-Process Retouch with a Glaze
Part into four sections Apply to new growth Complete four sections Rinse and towel dry PERMANENT SINGLE-PROCESS RETOUCH WITH A GLAZE IMPLEMENTS Use list of implements and materials from single-process haircolor. PROCEDURE Part dry hair into four sections. Apply color to new growth area using ¼” partings. Complete all four sides and set time for 45 minutes. Rinse and towel dry.

Single-Process Retouch with a Glaze
Apply no-lift deposit-only glaze Work through hair Check results Style hair Prepare a no-lift deposit-only glaze formula; apply to mid-strand and ends. Apply no-lift deposit-only glaze and work through hair. Check haircolor results before rinsing. Style the hair. CLEANUP AND SANITATION Perform cleanup and sanitation. Rinse plastic bottles, bowls, and brushes and disinfect. Record results on client record card and file it.

Single-Process Tint Retouch
Prepare client Apply to new growth Process according to analysis and strand results Refresh faded ends Shampoo and condition SINGLE-PROCESS TINT RETOUCH PREPARATION Follow same procedure as for virgin single-process procedure through and including the consultation and patch test. PROCEDURE Apply color to new growth only, being careful not to overlap on previously colored hair. Overlapping can cause breakage and create a line of demarcation that is the visible line separating colored hair from new growth. Process color according to analysis and strand test results. Refresh faded ends by rinsing color through the ends, or formulate a no-lift deposit-only haircolor. Shampoo and condition.

Lightening Oil Cream Powder LIGHTENING TECHNIQUES THREE TYPES • Oil
• Cream. Oil and cream are both considered to be on-the-scalp lighteners. • Powder. Considered to be “off-the-scalp” lightener.

On-the-Scalp Lighteners
Oil and cream Mildest One/two levels of lift ON-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS: Oil and cream are most popular. • Mildest • Appropriate for one/two levels of lift.

Cream Lightener Strong enough for blonding
Gentle enough for use on scalp More control Overlapping prevented Activators Boosters Protinators Accelerators CREAM LIGHTENERS Strong enough to do blonding; gentle enough to use on scalp. Thickeners give more control during application. Overlapping can be prevented. Cream lighteners do not run or drip. Retouches do not overlap. Can be mixed with activators. An activator is an oxidizer added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its chemical action or lifting power. Boosters Protinators Accelerators Up to three activators can be used for on-the-scalp applications. Up to four activators can be used for off-the-scalp applications.

Off-the-Scalp Lighteners
Powder lighteners Strong enough for blonding Not applied to scalp Contain oxygen-releasing boosters Dry out quickly Expand and spread Foilwraps, caps, painting OFF-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS: These are powder lighteners. Strong enough for blonding. These lighteners are not applied directly to the scalp. Also called quick lighteners. Contain oxygen-releasing boosters for quicker and stronger action. Dry out more quickly than others. They do not run or drip. Expand and spread out during processing. Should not be used for retouches or overlapping will occur. Used for foil wraps, highlighting with caps, and hair painting.

Time Factors Dark hair longer to lighten Influenced by porosity
Influenced by tone Strength of product Heat speeds up TIME FACTORS FOR PROCESSING Darker hair has more melanin. The more melanin, the longer it takes to lighten. Timing influenced by porosity. Porous hair lightens faster than nonporous hair. Tone influences timing. The greater the percentage of red, the more difficult it is to achieve the pale, delicate shades of blond. Ash blonds are difficult to achieve. Strength of product. Stronger lighteners attain pale shades faster. Heat leads to quicker lightening. Stages must be carefully observed. If natural pigment is excessively diffused, toner may not develop properly in hair shaft and toner may “grab” base color, giving hair an ashy, unpigmented tone. CAUTION: When heat is used, it softens hair and makes it more fragile. Excessive heat causes motion of molecules to become so great that damage can occur as cuticle layers are removed and cortical bonds are destroyed. Preliminary strand test required. Watch for discoloration or breakage; reconditioning may be required. If results are not light enough, increase strength or processing time. If too light, decrease strength or processing time. Reconditioning may be required before toning. REMEMBER: A patch test must be taken 24 to 48 hours before application of toner containing aniline derivatives; strand testing for lightening can be done same day as patch test.

Lightening Virgin Hair Implements
Towels Comb Protective gloves Plastic clips Waterproof cape Plastic or glass bowl Shampoo Peroxide Finish rinse Cotton Record card Bottle or brush Lightener Timer Protective cream LIGHTENING VIRGIN HAIR PROCEDURE IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES Towels, comb, protective gloves, plastic clips, waterproof cape, plastic or glass bowl, shampoo, peroxide, acid or finishing rinse, cotton, record card, applicator bottle or brush, lightener, timer, protective cream.

Lightening Virgin Hair Preparation
Do client consultation Remove and store jewelry Drape client Shampoo and towel dry PREPARATION 1. Perform client consultation. 2. Ask client to remove jewelry and store in a safe place. 3. Drape client for haircoloring service. 4. Shampoo and towel dry hair.

Lightening Virgin Hair Procedure
Do client consultation, scalp analysis Apply protective cream Put on protective gloves Prepare formula Divide hair into four sections PROCEDURE 1. Perform client consultation and scalp analysis. 2. Apply a protective cream around hairline and over ears. 3. Put on protective gloves. 4. Prepare lightening formula and use immediately. 5. Divide hair into four sections. Place cotton in all four sections to prevent lightener from touching the scalp.

Apply lightener Place strips of cotton Continue applying Do strand test Apply to scalp PROCEDURE Apply lightener ½” from scalp, working lightener through the midstrand, up to the porous ends. Place strips of cotton at scalp, between sections. Complete all four sections in this manner. Continue to apply lightener. Double check application, adding more lightener as necessary. Do not comb lightener through hair. Keep lightener moist. Do strand test. Check lightening action about 15 minutes before time indicated by strand test. Spray a hair strand with water and remove lightener with a damp towel. Examine strand. If strand is not light enough, reapply mixture and continue testing frequently until desired level is reached. Apply lightener to scalp. Remove cotton from scalp area. Apply lightener to hair near scalp with a 1/8" parting. Apply lightener to porous ends and process until desired stage is reached. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Rinse and shampoo Apply conditioner towel dry Examine scalp Proceed with toner 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. PROCEDURE Rinse hair thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo gently and condition as needed, keeping hands under hair to avoid tangling. Neutralize alkalinity of hair with conditioner. Recondition as necessary. Towel dry hair, or dry completely under cool dryer if manufacturer requires it. Examine scalp for abrasions. Analyze condition of hair. Proceed with toner application if desired.

Lightening Virgin Hair Cleanup and Sanitation

Lightener Retouch Lighten new growth Proceed as for virgin lightener
Lighten new growth (regrowth) first. Proceed as for virgin lightener except apply product to new growth only. Cream lightener is generally used for lightener retouch as its consistency helps prevent overlapping. REMEMBER: Overlapping can cause severe breakage and lines of demarcation and cream lighteners are gentler on the scalp. Consult client record cards for information about prior formulas.

Toners Require double processing Do not prelighten past pale yellow
Patch test required TONERS: Used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colors. Require double processing. Lighten first; tone second. After hair goes through the stages of decolorizing, the color that remains is known as its foundation. Do not prelighten past the pale yellow stage. This will create overporous hair with an inadequate amount of natural pigment in the cortex for toner to bond to. Preliminary toner application. Patch test is required 24 hours before toner; to save time, strand test can be performed at same time. Proceed if patch test is negative.

Toner Implements Towels Tail comb Protective gloves Plastic caps
Waterproof cape Plastic or glass bowl Shampoo Hydrogen peroxide Finishing rinse Cotton Protective cream Record card Toner Bottle or brush Timer TONER APPLICATION PROCEDURE IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES Towels, tail comb, protective gloves, plastic caps, waterproof cape, plastic or glass bowl, shampoo, hydrogen peroxide, acid or finishing rinse, cotton, protective cream, record card, toner, applicator bottle or brush, timer.

Toner Preparation Prelighten Shampoo, rinse, condition
Select desired shade Apply protective cream Do strand test Mix toner PREPARATION Prelighten hair to desired stage of decolorization. Shampoo hair lightly, rinse, and towel dry. Condition as necessary. Select desired toner shade. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears. Take strand test and record results on client record card. If using oxidative toner, mix toner and developer in nonmetallic bowl or bottle, following manufacturer’s directions.

Toner Procedure Part hair Apply toner Do strand test
Apply additional color Check time PROCEDURE Part hair into four equal sections, using end of tail comb or tint brush. Avoid scratching scalp. At crown of back section, part off 1/4" partings and apply toner from scalp up to, but not including, porous ends. Do strand test. If test indicates proper color development, gently work toner through ends of hair, using brush or your fingers. If necessary for coverage, apply additional toner to hair and blend it in. Leave hair loosely piled to permit air circulation or cover hair with cap if required. Time according to strand test. Check frequently until desired shade is achieved. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Toner Procedure Remove toner Rinse, shampoo Apply conditioner
Remove stains Style as desired Remove toner by wetting hair and massaging into a lather. Rinse with warm water, shampoo gently, and rinse well again. Apply conditioner to close cuticle, lower the pH, and help prevent fading. Remove any toner stains from skin, hairline, and neck. Style as desired. Use caution to avoid stretching hair.

Toner Cleanup and Sanitation

Summary and Review What is a strand test? SUMMARY AND REVIEW
We have learned that the most important step in correct color selection and application is the client consultation. You must develop effective reflective listening skills in order to ensure thorough and accurate communication between you and the client. You must analyze the hair and scalp thoroughly, perform strand and predisposition tests, and record all information completely on the client record card. You will explain the release statement to the client and obtain the signature prior to performing the service. If the client is a minor, you must obtain the signature from the parent, guardian, or responsible adult. In addition, you will carefully analyze the condition of the hair to determine if any preconditioning treatments are required prior to the service. If a thorough and well-planned consultation is performed, the changes of a successful haircolor service will almost be guaranteed. In addition, we have learned the importance of strand testing when performing permanent haircolor services. This is how we determine the hair’s reaction to the color formula we have chosen and how long it should be processed. We have also learned and/or practiced the procedures for applying a variety of haircolor services. Let’s review. What is a strand test? ANSWER: A preliminary strand test is performed on a small strand of the client’s hair to determine how the hair will react to the haircolor formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.

Summary and Review Explain the procedure for a single-process tint
What are the 2 processes involved in double-process haircoloring? What are 3 forms of hair lightener? Explain the procedure for a single-process tint. ANSWER: Single-process haircoloring is a process that lightens and colors the hair in a single application. A patch test is done prior to the service. The color is applied first where the hair is most resistant. It is applied to the midshaft, 2" from the scalp and not including the ends. Color development is checked with a strand test. Then color is applied to the scalp area and pulled through the ends. The hair is rinsed, then shampooed and styled. What are the two processes involved in double-process haircoloring? ANSWER: The hair is first prelightened, and then the depositing color is applied. What are three forms of hair lightener? ANSWER: Oil and cream lighteners are considered on-the-scalp lighteners, which can be used directly on the scalp. Powder lighteners are off-the-scalp lighteners, which cannot be used directly on the scalp.

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Haircoloring Procedures

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