1. Wigs and Hair Additions
Ch #19

2. Learning Objectives:
Explain the differences between human hair and synthetic hair
Describe the two basic categories of wigs
Describe several types of hairpieces and their uses
Explain several different methods of attaching hair extensions

3. Key Terms Block Fallen Hair Integration Hairpieces
Bonding Fusion Bonding Machine Made Wigs
Braid and Sew Method Hair Extensions Semi-hand-tied wigs
Cap Wigs Hair Piece Toupee
Capless Wigs Hand-tied-wigs Turned Hair (Remi)
(hand knotted wigs) Wefts
Wigs

4. Why Study Wigs & Hair Additions
In today’s fashion conscious world, wigs and hair additions play an incredibly important role. Working with hair additions can be either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field. Most clients buy wigs off-the-shelf or on the internet, and rarely have them custom fitted anymore. Faux hair is an extremely lucrative business!

5. Human vs. Synthetic Hair
Fastest way to tell is the Match Test
Human hair will burn slowly and give off a distinctive odor
Synthetic fiber will ball up and melt, extinguish itself, or continue to flame and burn out quickly and give off no odor

6. Advantages of Human Hair
More realistic appearance
Greater durability
Same styling and maintenance requirements as natural hair
Can be custom colored or permed
Can tolerate hear from a blowdryer or thermal tools

7. Disadvantages of Human hair
Hair reacts to climate
After shampooing the hair needs to be reset
The color will oxidize
The hair will break and split if mistreated

8. Advantages of Synthetic Hair
A modacrylic like Kanekalon is strong and durable with a natural lustrous look and feel
Great value
Ready to wear
Usually is designed to the latest fashion
Colors are limitless and will not fade or oxidize

9. Disadvantages of Synthetic Hair
Can not be exposed to high heat, making it difficult to alter the style
Can not custom color
Sometimes it looks too shiny and therefor unnatural

10. Quality & Cost Bottom lines is you get what you pay for
The more expensive hair are those made of human hair
Pricing varies as follows:
European hair is the top of the line; virgin is the most expensive and color treated is second in cost
Hair from India and Asia provide the most commercial human hair. Indian hair is usually available in lengths from inches and Asian from inches. Indian hair is usually wavy and Asian straight
Human hair mixed with animal hair is next in expense. It may be angora, horse, yak or sheep
Human hair mixed with synthetic hair finishes the list

11. Questions for selecting hair additions for clients:
What is it made of? Human, animal, mix, synthetic, or synthetic blend
Is the hair color treated or virgin?
If the hair is human is it graded in terms of strength, elasticity and porosity?
Is the cuticle intact? (Remi or Fallen)
Will the hair match the client’s hair?
Can the hair be permed?
Will the hair last a reasonable amount of time?

12. Remi = Turned hair Cuticle intact hair is the most expensive
Hair in which the root end of every single strand is swen into the base, so that the cuticles of all hair strands move in the same direction: down
Very time consuming process

13. Fallen Hair = opposite of Remi
Hair that has been shed from the head and gathered from a hairbrush, as opposed to hair that has been cut.
Fallen hair is not turned, so the cuticles of the strands will move in different directions causing it to tangle easily

14. Remi Refined
Hair that has had the cuticle partially removed so that it will not lock and mat.
This hair is less expensive than true Remi

15. Wig vs. hairpiece
Wig-Artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair, where the client’s hair is completely concealed (100 % coverage)
Hairpiece- if hair addition does not fully cover the head; a small wig used to cover the top or crown of the head, or hair attachment of some sort

16. 2 main types of wigs
Cap
Capless

17. Cap Wig
Constructed with an elasticized, mesh-fiber base to which the hair is attached
Made in several sizes
Require special fittings
Usually hand knotted
The front edge is made of a material that resembles the client’s scalp and wire supports at the temples for a snug secure fit
Hair is hand-tied under the net (under knotted) to conceal the cap edge

18. Capless Wigs Aka “caps” Machine-made Hair is woven into wefts
Rows of wefts are sewn to elastic strips in a circular patter to fit the head shape
Frame of connected wefts with an open area
More popular b/c they are ready to wear and less expensive
Extremely light and comfortable to wear
Healthier because they allow the scalp to breath

19. Wefts & Bundles Wefts-Long strips of hair with a threaded edge
Bundle- lose strands of hair

20. Methods of construction hand-tied
Aka hand-knotted
Made by inserting individual strands of hair into mesh foundations and knotting them with a needle
Usually done around the front hairline and at the top of the head
Have a natural and realistic look
Hair has no definite direction and can be combed in almost any direction

21. Methods of construction Semi-hand tied wigs
Constructed with a combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair
Reasonably priced
Natural appearance
Good durability

22. Methods of construction machine-made wigs
Least expensive
Made by feeding wefts through a sewing machine then stitching them together to form base and shape
Wefting directions could causes a disadvantage however this is a quality known as bounce back to others

23. Wig measurements Use a soft tape measure
Keep it close to the head without pressure
Each manufacture has its own form to fill out
If the wig is ready to wear no measurements will be needed because they are adjustable via tightening and loosening straps or elastics

24. Blocking the Wig
Block- head shaped form usually made of canvas covered cork or Styrofoam on which the wig is secured for fitting, coloring and sometimes styling
However today most wigs are cut and finished while on the client and then cleaned and stored on a drying rack

25. Putting on the Wig One of the most important parts of the service
Educate the client on the importance of securing their natural hair under the wig cap and making it flat and even will determine how well the wig sits on the head

26. Wig Adjustments
If the wig does not have tightening straps you can create a small fold or tuck and sew the wig along the inside seam
To shorten & remove bulk- create a horizontal tuck or fold across the back
To remove width at the back create a vertical tuck and sew it in place

27. Cutting Wigs Goal is to make the hair look more realistic
Most effective way to do this is to taper the ends when cutting the wig
The more solid the shape the more unnatural
Wig should be placed on the block for cutting
Free form cutting on dry hair is the best for wigs
Combouts and finishing should be done while wig is on client’s head

28. Styling the wig
Don’t lose sight of the big picture- a great stylist works with the total person
Most wigs have chemically treated hair so you need to be gentle with the hair
Styling tools should be set to low
Choose styling products that have been formulated for color treated hair
If the wig does not have a natural looking hairline or lace front, backcomb gently around the hairline the fluffy effect softens the hairline
You can also release some of the client’s hair around the hairline and blend it with the wig
Try not to make it look perfect – this will cause it to look artificial

29. Cleaning the Wig Always follow the mfr’s instructions
Use gentle shampoos formulated for chemically treated hair or specially developed for wigs
Avoid harsh shampoos especially with a sulfur base
Soak then gently squeeze and use the drying rack
If it is human hair then it should also be conditioned

30. Coloring/perming wigs / hairpieces
Use hair that has already been decolorized and not previously treated with metallic dyes
Check with mfr or do a strand test
Check to see if cuticle is intact- if it’s not the hair is extremely porous and will react in an extreme way
Remember that the hair you are working on did not come from one head bur from many heads this makes the results unpredictable
Perform all chemical processes while wig is off client’s head

31. Wig test / wind test
Best way to gauge how realistic the wig looks
Gently use blow around the client’s face with a blow dryer and observe how the hairlines looks

32. Hairpieces
Sit on top of client’s head covering a portion of it, or are clipped onto another area, such as the nape.
Temporary method
Some like wiglets that conceal a thinning top can be attached with a braid and sew technique
Types: toupees, integration piece, falls, half wigs (headband), wiglets, chignons, bandeaus, cascades, ponytails, bangs and fillers
Many clip on with pressure sensitive clips
Hair can be blended with the hairpiece or serve as a base for it

33. Hairpiece integration
A hairpiece that has openings in the base through which the client’s own hair is pulled to blend with the hairpiece
Recommended for clients with thinning hair
Not recommended for clients with total hair loss at the scalp because it is likely to show through

34. Hairpiece Toupees
A small wig used to cover the top and crown of the head
The fine-net base is usually the most appropriate material for the client with severe hair loss
Two methods of attachment temporary- tape or clips
Two methods of attachment semi permanent- tracks or adhesive

35. Fashion Hairpieces ponytails, chignons, cascades, streaks, bangs, half wigs, clip ins, falls
Great salon product for special occasions
Usually attached temporarily with hairpins, clips, combs, bobby pins or elastics

36. Hair extensions
Hair additions that are secured at the base of the client’s natural hair in order to add length, volume, texture or color
Can be human or synthetic
Either wefts or strands(small bundles)
General rule of thumb stay 1 in away from the hairline at the front, sides, nape and part line
With very thin hair you must be careful that the base does not show through
Curly hair tends to expand and gives the illusion of being thicker so you may not need as many extensions in curly hair as in straight hair
Methods of attachment: braid –and –sew, bonding, fusion, linking, and tube shrinking

37. Most professional approach & always in the following order
Safety for client’s own hair
Comfort
Security
Style

38. Braid – and - sew
Extensions are secured to client’s own hair by sewing braids or a weft onto an on-the-scalp braid which is commonly referred to as a “track”
The angle of the track will determine how the hair will fall
Tracks can be horizontal, vertical, diagonal or curved lines that follow the contour of the head
Partings are determined according to the style that you have chosen
When sewing extensions use only a blunt needle C curve is recommended
When done correctly very safe technique for client’s natural hair
No special equipment needed
Drawbacks – too much tension can cause traction alopecia

39. Bonding Method
Method of attaching hair extensions using an adhesive or bonding agent
Natural hair should be at least 4 inches
There is a certain degree of slippage
Generally last from 2-4 weeks depends on frequency of shampooing, oiliness of scalp, dryness of scalp and quality of products used
Client needs to be on a maintenance schedule
Use a consistent amount of bonding agent
Care must be taken to avoid working to close to the crown and partings or the weft will show through
Removed by using a dissolving agent
2 advantages: offered at affordable price & quick service
Drawbacks: allergic reactions to bonding ingredients because most are latex based
Bonding should not be used to attach wefts longer than 12 in

41. Fusion Bonding
Method of attaching extensions; extension is bonded to the client’s own hair with a bonding material that is activated by heat from a special tool
This method while expensive and extremely time consuming harmonizes with the client’s natural hair with no uncomfortable or unattractive attachment sites
The bonds are lightweight and comfortable
Hair moves like real hair
Easy to maintain
Lasts up to 4 months
Removal is quick and painless
Usually requires manufacture certification in order to purchase
Most strands are pre-tipped with a keratin bonding that you attach to natural hairs isolated with a hair shield
Extensions are positioned under the natural hair and near the base
Bond is heated and then rolled between fingers creating the bead that captures and holds both the natural hair and the extension fibers
Drawbacks: time consuming and expensive; can cause damage if done incorrectly

42. Linking
A hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a parting, a link is slid on near the scalp with a special tool. Then extension is inserted then link is pinched closed with special pliers
If removed properly with special tool extensions can be reused
Natural hair must be at least 5 inches
Make sure to follow a natural growth pattern
Advantage: no chemicals
Drawbacks: expensive, time consuming, metal links oxidize

44. Tube shrinking
Same as linking but a tube is used in place of a metal link, it is heated so it shrinks to the hair

45. Review Questions
1.What are the main advantages and disadvantages of human and synthetic hair?
2. What are the two basic categories of wigs?
3.What are three types of hairpieces and how are they used?
4.What are five methods for attaching hair extensions? Describe each one