1. Grape Introduction to California: A few selections Jim Lapsley, Ph.D. Agricultural Issues Center Dept. of Viticulture and Enology

2. California Winegrape Acreage

4. Five periods of expansion Introduction—1780s to 1880s – Mission variety Boom of the 1880s – Zinfandel Prohibition—1919-1933 – Petite Sirah (and others) 1970s – Chardonnay (and Chenin blanc and Colombard) 1990s – Cabernet (and Merlot)

5. The Production Cycle Quantity Supplied Exceeds Quantity Demanded Quantity Demanded Exceeds Quantity Supplied BoomTimes! High prices lead to new plantings Bust! Low prices discourage production

6. In general, demand for wine has increased in the U.S. Quantity consumed is a function of per capita consumption and size of adult population U.S. adult population has increased over time (although in demographic waves) Per capita consumption has also increased (although from a small base and has experienced periods of decline) 6

7. Introduction of V. Vinifera

8. Introduction 1780s Spanish missionaries – Grapes for mass Secularization under Mexican rule – Focus was on Southern California – Perhaps 2000 acres in 1830 One grape variety: The Mission – “Pais” in Chile and “Criolla” in Argentina

9. 9 The Mission Grape California’s first Vinifera Low color and low acid, it made equally poor white and red wine Recently identified as Listan Prieto, a vinifera variety from southern Spain.

10. The 1880 Boom

11. Why a Boom in the 1880s? Population growth and shift to Northern California following the Goldrush Phylloxera was destroying French vineyards— resulting in world demand for more wine Transcontinental Railroad completion in 1869 tied California to markets in eastern U.S. Increased tax in 1876 on foreign wines made California wines more competitive Importations of European grape varieties accelerated

12. Grape Acreage Increase

13. 13 Zinfandel From Croatia “Crljenak Kastelanski” Hothouse variety East Coast in 1830s Various shipments to CA early 1850s Adapted well to various climatic areas and widely planted 1880s

14. 14 Napa Varieties by Acreage in 1888 2031 Mission 5744 Zinfandel 1608 Misc. Reds 779Bordeaux Reds 412 Bordeaux Whites 2636 Riesling 2597 Misc. Whites 15807 Total Acreage Source: 1888 Board of Vit. Com. Report

15. Red Varieties reviewed by Hilgard 1887-1889 Bordeaux type: Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Merlot, Gamay, St. Macaire Burgundy type: Black Pinot, Meunier, Chauce Noir Italian type: Barbera, Freisa, Bonarda, Nebbiolo, Refosco Southern French type: Araman, Cinsault, Mondeuse, Grenache, Mourastel, Mataro, Trosseau, Petit Bouschet, Sirah, Ploussard, Carignane Austrian type: Zinfandel, Grossblaue

16. The end of the boom France recovers from Phylloxera—competition in world market Depression of 1893 reduces U.S. demand Phylloxera destroys many California vineyards Legacy: Diversity of varieties

17. Prohibition

18. Prohibition: 1919-1934 Ended commercial production of alcoholic beverages Production of “non- intoxicating fruit juices” at home was legal Huge demand for wine grapes

19. 19 Vineyard prices increased from $100 an acre to $500. The result was increased planting throughout California. In 1919 total grape acreage was 300,000 acres. By 1928 it had doubled to 650,000 acres. The demand for grapes for home-made wine led to escalating prices: from $30 a ton in 1918 to $95 in 1919.

20. Demand was for: Grapes that had dark color (so that resulting wine could be extended with water) Grapes that had thick skins (so they could survive rail shipment) Grapes that had lots of tannin (so resulting wine could be extended with water) 20

21. 21 Napa Varieties/Acres at Repeal VARIETY ACRES PERCENT Petite Sirah400040 Alicante272025 Zinfandel166015 Carignane121011 Palomino 220 2 Other 800 7 TOTAL 10610 100

22. Petite Sirah 1880 Cross between Syrah and Peloursin by Dr. Durif 1884 imported by McIver (Mission San Jose) 1900 becomes popular Widely planted in 1920s for home winemaking

23. Conclusion on Prohibition Primary change was in demand, leading to increased plantings beginning in 1920 By 1925, grape prices dropped to pre- Prohibition levels, indicating quantity supplied had passed quantity demanded A classic example of boom/bust that doubled California acreage and left a legacy of poor varietals for quality winemaking

24. The Wine Booms of the 1970s and 1990s Two wine booms—one white and one red Demand increased as Baby Boomers came of legal drinking age and adopted wine Technology played a role in improving wine quality

25. 25 In 1976, two new Napa Wineries, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Chateau Montalena, “beat” the best French Wines in a tasting in Paris held to commemorate the bicentennial The 1970s! During the late 1960s and early 1970s, demand for wine increased, bringing investment by major companies. Was the driver the coming of age of the Baby Boomers, the major demographic wave of the 20 th century? Starting in 1967, about 3 million people turned 21 years of age every year for the next two decades In 1976 in Paris, French judges chose California wines over French in an informal competition

26. The Table Wine Boom of the 1970s Gallonage doubled between 1970-1980 Acreage expanded to meet demand – New varieties and new regions – Chenin blanc and Colombard in the Valley – Cabernet and Chardonnay on the coast New wineries emerged dedicated to producing limited volumes of high quality wine 26

27. The growth was in white wine 19701980 Red.54.64 White.271.26 Blush.27.47 Total 1.082.38 27 Per Capita consumption in gallons

28. Chardonnay becomes King The boom in the 1970s was in white wine when new technology allowed production of cold, fruity, and slightly sweet wines Colombard and Chenin blanc were grown in the Central Valley and used to make “Chablis.” Chardonnay was planted originally in cool coastal valleys— and such new areas as Monterey and Santa Barbara Today Chardonnay is 75% of all white wine sold in the U.S.

29. Chardonnay 1882 Wetmore import from Burgundy 1896 Paul Masson import from Burgundy – “Mt. Eden” clone 1912 Wente import from Montpellier 1948 McCrea (Stony Hill)takes cuttings from Wente to St. Helena 1950s, Louis Martini takes McCrea wood and plants in Stanly Lane (Carneros)

30. Chardonnay 1955 Olmo selects from Martini for clonal trial in Oakville—Clones 4 & 5 1964 Selections moved to heat treatment 1969 Released to industry 160 acres 1960. Today 94,000 acres. Clones 4 and 5 are 75%. Chardonnay clones: FPS 4 (left) and 16 (right)

31. Conclusion: 1970s Boom Demography: Began because of demand increase by Baby Boomers who adopted white wine in place of cocktails Fueled by major marketing efforts Social changes, decline in marketing, and end of Baby Boomers coming of age reduced demand 1000s of acres pulled in the Central Valley 31

32. The Red Wine Boom of the 1990s In 1991, Morley Shafer of the news program, 60 Minutes, informed aging Baby Boomers that the French ate as much fat as Americans, but had lower levels of heart attacks and strokes, thanks to RED WINE! In 10 years wine red wine consumption tripled Morley Shafer, patron saint of winemarketers

33. The Red Wine Boom of the 1990s 19902000 Red0.351.00 White0.930.92 Blush0.600.45 Total1.872.30 Per Capita Consumption in Gallons

34. The red wine boom of the 1990s Aging Baby Boomers began drinking red wine to prevent heart disease Cabernet and Merlot became the most popular red wines, today constituting about 70% of all red wine consumption

35. Cabernet Sauvignon (cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon blanc) 1852 Delmas in San Jose 1861 Haraszthy? 1878 Drummond in Sonoma (Wildwood) 1880 Crabb in Napa (Tokalon) 1882? Wetmore (Cresta Blanca)

36. Cabernet Sauvignon 1963 Clone 2 “Oakville” from Wildwood to FPS (Martha’s Vyrd., Fay Vyrd. Stag’s Leap) 1969 Clone 6 “Jackson Selection” (Amador Co.) 1970 Clones 7, 8 and 11 from Concannon Vyrd. (probably direct import 1904—maybe from Wetmore 1880s) 1956: 700 acres. 2013: 86,258 acres.

37. Conclusion Grapes don’t plant themselves – Plantings are a result of demand shifts California enjoys a rich diversity of varieties and clones The search for quality is on-going

38. More Information? Foundation Plant Services: Grapes – Oct. 2008 “Cabernet Sauvignon at FPS” – Nov. 2007 “The Zinfandels of FPS” – Nov. 2007 “Chardonnay History and Selections at FPS” Charles Sullivan – Zinfandel, a History of a Grape (2003) – Companion to California Wine (1998)