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Published byKiara Billen Modified over 9 years ago
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PCSO MRT Training Guidelines 1
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Overview Rappelling Safety Review Rappel Commands Munter Hitch Rescue-8 Pass the knot Change Over 2
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Safety Backups and Safety Checks Tie a double overhand or figure-8 knot in the end of your rope to prevent rappelling off the end. Apply weight to anchors and rappelling equipment slowly. Bounding Rappels are prohibited. Only walk down rappels are to be used. 3
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Rope Management Throwing The Rope 1.Tie a knot in the opposite end to prevent rappelling off the end of the rope. 4
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Edge Transition Have your anchor checked by the safety. Have yourself safety checked. Weight your anchor before you reach the safety line. Begin with your feet shoulder width apart. Look for footholds before you transition the edge. Check for edge pro that may be needed. 5
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At the Top On BelayBelay On “On Belay” (”Belay On“) if independent belay is used** On RappelRappel On “On Rappel” (“Rappel On”) **For self-belay, response will be from safety officer At the Ground Off RappelRappel Off “Off Rappel” (“Rappel Off”) Off BelayBelay Off “Off Belay” (“Belay Off”) Commands 6
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Rappel Devices 7
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Rescue-8 with ears 8
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Rigging the Rescue-8 9
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Rescue-8 Friction Methods Single wrapDouble wrap 10
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Rescue-8 Friction 11
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How to avoid dropping your rescue-8. 12
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Tie off the Rescue-8 13
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Rappel Devices Correct Incorrect Why? Munter Hitch 14
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Munter Hitch Brake must be opposite the gate 15
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Rappel Devices Tie Off 16 Half-hitch Overhand
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Safety Backups and Safety Checks 17 Self-belayActive Independent belay
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Safety Backups and Safety Checks TraineeSupport and Rescue 18
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Safety Backups and Safety Checks Mission 19
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Passing the Knot 20 Rig Rescue-8 below knot and Second prusik Set prusik, tie off Add second prusik
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Passing the Knot 21 Step on rope, Ascender, or Prusik with sling Stuck Prusik Tie off Rescue-8, remove upper prusik
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Passing the Knot 22 Stuck Prusik
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ASCENDING PCSO MRT Training Guidelines 23
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Overview Ascending Safety Review Ascending Commands Ascender Setup Edge Transition Pass the knot Change Over 24
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Safety The Safety Line is independent of the Main Line. The safety line will not be used for rigging. Trainees will have a third line with an active belayer. Ascenders will be connected to the climber with cowstails. 25 Maintain two (2) points of contact. Each ascender counts as ½ point of contact. An additional prusik will be applied to maintain two points before ascenders are removed.
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Cow’s Tail Right Stirrup Right Ascender Safety Line with Microcender or prusik as Self-belay Triangular or Half-moon Screw-link Equipment 26
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Cow’s Tail Left Stirrup Left Ascender Safety Line Equipment 27
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Cows Tail 28 Right Ascender Belay Loop Left Ascender
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Approach the Rope at the Ground 1.Adjust each ascender so that you can walk up as smoothly On BelayClimbing 2.Attach the self-belay, “On Belay” followed by “Climbing” 3.Start climbing with short steps and steady pace At Edge 1.Slide self-belay over the edge as far up as possible, by standing on the top and bottom stirrups 2.Move up edge toward anchor as far as possible. 3.Move to the safe location away from the edge. 4.Remove equipment. 5.There may be a minor change in sequence due to the rock face. At top 1.Remove the top and bottom ascender from the main line. Off Rope 2.“Off Rope” 3.Remove the self belay Off belay 4.“Off belay” Equipment 29
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At the Ground On BelayBelay On “On Belay” (”Belay On"), if independent belay is used ClimbingClimb On “Climbing” (“Climb On”) At the Top Off RopeRope Off “Off Rope” (“Rope Off”) Off BelayBelay Off “Off Belay” (“Belay Off”) Commands 30
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