1. Intermediate Glacier Travel
Lecture 1: Introductions and Evaluation

2. Welcome!
“The Intermediate Glacier Travel course teaches both the technical and non-technical skills needed to comfortably plan and lead a basic glacier climb.”
Topics covered in course include:
Cramponing, arrests, and techniques for managing for steep slopes
Placing and equalizing snow protection (pickets, screws, etc.)
Advanced haul systems and belay techniques
Group management, camp site selection and camp construction
Trip planning, route selection, and navigation

3. Who am I? Full-time professional guide for 6 years
>100 summits of Rainier (14,411’)
6 different routes, 2 winter ascents
2 summits of Denali (20,322’)
Multiple expeditions to Ecuador: Chimborazo (20,564’), Cotopaxi (19,347’), Cayambe (18,966’), Antisana (18,714’)
Multiple expeditions to Mexico: Pico de Orizaba (18,491’), Iztaccihuatl (17,159’)
Lots of alpine rock in the North Cascades

4. Who are you? 60 students Quick round of intros
30 are in the Intermediate package, 30 are not
Variety of backgrounds; we’ll establish a common foundation tonight
Quick round of intros
Name
Climbing experience
Any specific goals for the course?
Dream climb?

5. What to Expect from this Course
Three lectures:
Today: Pre-requisite evaluation
Lecture 2 (Jan 22 or 23): Trip Planning, “Potpourri” of topics
Lecture 3 (Jan 30, or Feb 1, 5, 12): Technical Skills grab bag
Two days in the field:
Run in small groups
Heart of the course, lots of hands-on practice in the field
You are encouraged to brainstorm beforehand and come up with additional topics or questions to cover if time permits on your trip
Must be AIAIRE 1 certified before your first field day

6. What We Expect From You Complete all required components
Volunteer to help out with the Basic Course as well
Everything is based off volunteer instructors and leaders
As intermediate climbers, you are the perfect up-and-coming leaders to keep this organization alive and help the next generation of climbers
All of you are qualified to help with the crevasse rescue and snow travel field trips; Basic grads are qualified to help out with all
See the webpage for specific dates and opportunities

7. Today’s Evaluation

8. Today’s Evaluation The goal is not to eliminate people from the course
There are three stations that everyone must go through…
… with three possible outcomes
Pass: Nailed it!
Marginal Pass: Pass, but could’ve been better
Fail: Did not meet the standard
Specific feedback will be provided if you receive marginal or fail
Opportunity to re-attempt stations at end of Lecture 3

9. Station 1: Knots and Hitches
Overhand on a bight
Figure-8: On a bight and rewoven
Bowline
Alpine butterfly
Clove Hitch
Munter Hitch
Munter-Mule
Prusik, Autoblock, Klemheist*

10. Station 1: Knots and Hitches
We’ll do this one first; should go fairly quickly
To pass:
Tie all of the required knots without assistance from evaluators or other students
All knots/hitches should be properly dressed
To fail:
Don’t know how to tie all of the required knots
Don’t dress your knots properly

11. Station 2: Rope Ascension
We’ll have four stations set up upstairs
To pass:
Use your equipment properly
Ascend a fixed line using standard glacier travel gear
Maintain two load-bearing points-of-contact on the system
Keep less than 2m of slack between the two points
To fail:
Don’t wear your helmet
Don’t manage your slack as you ascend
Don’t have a backup to your waist Prusik

12. Station 3: Crevasse Rescue
Multiple stations set up downstairs in basement
To pass:
Perform a crevasse rescue, including a haul system of at least 2:1 advantage
Standard is Drop-C, but safe alternatives are acceptable as well
Prevent excess slack from accumulating during haul (less than 2m)
Protect yourself and your partner at all times
To fail:
Disconnect yourself or your partner from the system at any point
Don’t know how to build an appropriate haul system
Leave the fallen climber attached to only one POC at any point

13. Scorecards Put your name on your card so you get credit!
Instructors will initial one of the three results
And provide any specific feedback for that event

14. Important: Make sure you turn in your score cards at the end of the session!

15. Questions?

16. For Lecture 2…
Bring a compass suitable for navigation; we’ll need them for the exercises