1. Fabric finishes Learning ladder You must:
link fabric finishes to fibre/fabric/product properties.
compare fabric finishes.
You should:
understand how fabric finishes add value for the consumer.
argue for and against the use of fabric finishes.
You could:
have a depth of knowledge on each fabric finish.
understand the generic groups of fabric finish.
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2. Fabric finishes
A fabric finish refers to something that is added to the surface of a fibre, fabric or product to change it in some way and make it more suited for its intended use.
Fabric finishes can be added to fabric to protect it, change the way it feels or behaves, make it look different or to add value.
There are four types of fabric finish:
Dry (or physical /mechanical) finishes that are achieved by using a mechanical process.
Wet (or chemical) finishes that are achieved by a chemical reaction.
Biological finishes that are based on natural processes.
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3. The cost of fabric finishes
A manufacturer has to think carefully about what types of finishes to include, especially as adding a fabric finish will use increase production costs.
Some finishes are seen as adding benefits for the consumer, so a manufacturer will often use this as a selling point when marketing the product.
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4. Shrink resistance
Shrink resistance is a dry finish used on all fabrics except wool. Fabrics are often shrunk before product manufacture as it means the fabric will not shrink when used.
Cellulose fibres are swelled in water and synthetics are heated. The fabrics are then allowed to relax on a vibrating table which causes the fibres to swell and shrink.
Wool fibres can be coated with polyester (wet finish) to make them more resistant to shrinkage.
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5. Brushing/raising Brushing is a dry fabric finish.
Brushed fabrics have been passed between wire rollers which raise the nap on the fabric and make it feel soft and fluffy.
Brushing can also make a product feel warmer because of the increased surface area, e.g. brushed cotton pyjamas.
Cotton, wool, polyester and polyamide can be brushed.
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6. Calendering and embossing (1)
Calendering and embossing are dry fabric finishes.
In calendering, fabrics are passed between heated rollers which give a smooth finish to the fabric.
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7. Calendering and embossing (2)
Calendering is done on cotton (e.g. chintz) and on wool.
If the rollers are engraved patterns can be embossed onto synthetic fabrics by using its thermoplastic properties.
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8. Water repellent and stain resistance
Fabrics and fibres can be treated with a finish that creates a protective barrier against stains and liquids that sit on the surface of the fabric rather than soak in.
Teflon® is a famous brand for these wet finishes.
A range of products uses these finishes, from clothing to furnishings.
Teflon® is a registered trademark of DuPont
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9. Mercerizing
Mercerizing is a wet fabric finish added on cotton to make it more shiny, absorbent and stronger.
The fabric is placed in sodium hydroxide which makes the fibres swell.
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10. Flame resistance
Fabrics can be made to burn more slowly by applying a flame retardant finish (wet finish).
Permatex is the brand name of a flame retardant fabric finish for cotton.
Children’s nightdresses and dressing gowns have to be flame retardant by law and must have labels with ‘Keep away from fire’ on them.
All new furniture and covers for furniture as well as soft furnishing fillings have to carry permanent labels that meet BS 5852.
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11. Easy care
A wet finish is applied to cellulose fibres to reduce shrinking and creasing, making it ‘easy care’. It also makes the fabric require less ironing.
A resin is applied to the fabric surface and it is then cured (fixed) in an oven.
This fabric finish is often used as a selling point on men’s shirts.
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12. Biostoning and biopolishing
These are biological finishing processes that use enzymes on cotton and viscose.
Biostoning is used on denim to give a faded effect. It is a more environmentally friendly version of the traditional stonewashing process, where the fabric is rubbed with pumice stones.
Biopolishing takes place before the fabric is dyed. A biological enzyme is added to the fabric giving it more sheen.
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13. Anti-bacterial finishes
These finishes inhibit the growth of microbes, which means odours, infections, dust mites, and so on, can be controlled. This gives lasting freshness to bedding, towels, socks, clothes and other textiles items.
Trade names include: Amicor, Purista, Microban, Bioguard, Permafresh.
Chitosan is a finish made from the shells of crabs and shrimps. It has hypoallergenic and anti-bacterial properties and also helps moisturize the skin. It is particularly good for eczema sufferers.
These finishes can be applied as a wet finish or be microencapsulated.
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14. Applying wet finishes – coating
Wet finishes can be coated onto a fabric. This can be done by direct coating where the finish is applied directly to the fabric.
Alternatively the finish can be applied to paper and then heat transferred onto the fabric.
The finish is fixed or cured to make it permanent by using heat.
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15. Applying wet finishes – micro-encapsulation
Micro-encapsulation is where hollow fibres are filled with beneficial tiny crystals of chemicals, vitamins, medicine, creams and so on.
These are released onto the skin of the wearer when the fabric is touched.
This is a smart finish, as the chemicals react to being rubbed or touched.
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16. Phase change materials (PCMs)
A PCM fabric is a ‘smart’ fabric that can sense over-heating, store the heat and release it when required.
The fabric works by the PCM ‘thermo-molecules’ changing from a solid state to a liquid one as it absorbs the heat.
PCMs can be applied as a fabric finish or be micro-encapsulated.
The fabric is used for clothing, bedding, shoes, underwear, and so on.
PCM thermo-molecules micro-encapsulated in fibres
Source:
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17. Vocabulary Fabric finish Dry/mechanical/physical finish
Wet/chemical finish
Biological finish
Calendering
Embossing
Brushing/raising
Mercerizing
Stain resistance
Water repellent
Write down an explanation for three of the things you have learned about today.
Flame resistance
Shrink resistance
Easy care
Anti-bacterial
Biostoning
Biopolishing
Coating
Micro-encapsulation
Fixing/curing
Phase change material
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18. Task 3: product analysis
What fabric finishes might be used on these products?
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