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Machine Stitching Techniques
Obj Understand Engineering & Construction
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Stitch Lengths Stitch Length is determined by the purpose.
A medium stitch length is most common. Basting stitches are very long. Reinforcement stitches are very short.
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Standard Stitching Use: Permanent seams & construction details.
Most Fabrics: inches Finer Fabrics: Shorter stitch between stitches per inch. Heavy Fabrics: Longer stitch 8-10 stitches per inch.
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Basting Machine basting holds two pieces of fabric together until they are permanently stitched. Used also on a single layer of fabric for: Easing Gathering Marking guidelines
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Reinforcement Stitching
Adds strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as armhole, crotch and corners. Short stitch – stitches per inch.
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Stay-stitching Prevents fabric stretching
Placed along bias & curved edges Added after: Fabric marking Before pinning Basting Permanent stitching
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Stay-Stitching cont. Stay-stitching should be done on a single layer of fabric 1/8 inch from seam line & within the seam allowance. Acts as a guide for clipping & joining curved edges.
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Directional Stitching
Helps prevent a seam from changing or stretching while stitching. Produced by stitching with or in the direction of the fabric grain.
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Standard Seam Stitching
Produces Plain seam: 5/8 inch 5/8 inch seam Used in most patterns.
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Backstitching Secures the ends of a row of stitching.
Begin ½ inch in from end. Stitch backward to edge of fabric. Continue sewing to other end. Backstitch ½ inch from end. Secures the ends of a row of stitching.
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Understitching Keeps facing or the under side of fabric rolled out of sight. Created from standard stitching Stitch from right side of fabric through facing & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.
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Topstitching Decorative or functional stitching placed on the outside of a garment. Outlines – Seams Secures - Facings Attaches – Pockets Stitches - Pleats Holds - Hems
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Edgestitching Holds fabric & seams in place.
Row of stitching ¼ inch from finished edge. Used in areas as: Neck edges Zippers
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Stitch-in-the-ditch Holds two or more layers of fabric together at the seams. Secures: Necklines Armholes Waistband facings Standard stitching on the outside of a garment in the groove of a seam line.
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Zigzag Stitching Zigzag stitch uses: Finish seams Stitch buttonholes
Attach cording & elastic Create decorative designs. Button Hole Seam Finish
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Specialty Stitches Most machines have a variety of specialty stitches.
Add decorative aspect to garment Can be made by a serger or sewing machine. Machine & Serger specialty stitches
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