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Choosing a Lock
Let’s review the choices.
You have strikes
And Magnetics
Strikes can either be cut into a doorframe
Or bolted onto a doorframe
Magnetics are always bolted onto a doorframe
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What is the most difficult task you have when selecting a lock?
Picking a lock that will work with your door and frame
Getting the lock installed, cutting and drilling
Ensuring the lock is compatible with ISONAS readers, voltage and amperage
Making sure you don’t violate any fire and/or safety codes
Should I consult with a locksmith?
Yes if your door is electronic
Yes if you are not handy with tools like drills and/or roto zips.
Why wouldn’t I consult a locksmith?
Typically they are not access control experts
They usually have lock brands that they work with, all others are suspect
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Quick techie note
You need to understand the terms “Fail Safe” and “Fail Secure”
“Fail” implies what is going to happen when the power is removed
“Safe” implies the state of the lock without power is unlocked
“Secure” implies the state of the lock without power is locked
So, if you have an electronic lock on a door…
If the lock is set to “Fail Safe” and the power goes out, the door will be unlocked
If the lock is set to “Fail Secure” and the power goes out, the door will be locked
Almost all strikes can be set to Fail Safe or Fail Secure
Magnetic locks are all pretty much Fail Safe because when the power goes out, the magnets release
There are some magnetic locks with mechanical systems to implement Fail Secure, but they are not covered in this presentation.
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Fail Safe and Fail Secure both present problems when the power goes out
If you use Fail Secure, then you need an exit strategy if power is out (you can’t lock people in!)
If you use Fail Safe, then you need a way to secure the door if the power is out
Electronic strikes pose less of a problem because…
Installing a strike does NOT remove the existing doorknob or deadbolt; therefore..
You can always get out by turning the doorknob
You can always lock the door with the deadbolt
Electronic strikes are usually set to Fail Secure
This works out well for both Business hours and After hours, because…
If power goes out during business hours and the door locks, simply unlock the doorknob
If power goes out After hours, no problem, the door is Fail Secure and so it is still locked
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Magnetic locks just require a little planning
If power goes out, how do you secure the door (secure strategy)?
Use the existing deadbolt
Engage the mechanical push bar system if installed
In short, employ the locking system you used before installing the magnetic lock
If power is on and the magnets engaged, how do people get out the door (exit strategy)?
You need a way to break the connection to release the magnets
You can install a specialty button to unlock from the inside
Known as a Request To Exit button (REX)
You can connect a motion detector to be an automatic REX button
Reliable and convenient, but the wiring can be difficult
You can connect a push bar to be an automatic REX button
Requires the correct type of push bar
There are many fire codes dealing with Magnetic locks and exit strategies…
In general, you can never lock someone in a location
The exit strategy must be simple and operate in a single motion
If you must install a magnetic lock, we recommend a locksmith be consulted.
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So, how do I pick a lock that will work with my door?
Generally, if you door looks like one of these
Then one of these locks will work
Inside view
Outside view
If you door looks like one of these
Then a lock style like this will work
If you door looks like one of these
Then a magnetic lock is probably your best option
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What are the problems around installation?
Electric strikes (that go into a doorframe):
Have to be cut into a doorframe
Sometimes existing holes are too big, sometimes too small
If it’s too big, then you have to buy an adapter kit
If it’s too small, then you must carefully route out a new hole
Electric strikes (that mount onto a doorframe):
Must have a push bar in place Or you can install one
May require some cutting of the frame to allow push bar to mate up with lock
Magnetic locks
Potentially easy to install, but require an exit strategy (REX)
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How do I ensure the lock is compatible with the ISONAS readers?
If you buy the lock from our storefront, then it is compatible
If you buy the lock from someplace else, then you must ensure compatibility.
Okay, how do I ensure compatibility?
It must run on 12 volts DC
It must not exceed .5 amps
You must protect against back EMF or in-rush
What is back EMS and/or in-rush?
This is beyond the scope of this presentation, but….
You protect against back EMF on electric strikes with our Back-EMF-kit
You protect against in-rush on magnetic locks with our Magnetic Lock Kit
Here is our recommendation…
Use your knowledge from this presentation
Pick one of the locks we offer
Ask a locksmith to install the lock you selected
Wait and see if the locksmith raises problems with your selection
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The End
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