1. 11 30th Months Meeting INESCOP PROJECT PROGRESS & PLANNED ACTIVITIES UNIFI - Firenze (Italy) 27th January 2016 Mercedes Roig Joaquín Ferrer INESCOP LIFE 12 ENV/IT/352

2. 22 INESCOP’s project progress (July’15–January’16) ACTIONSTATUS B1. Demonstration of the use of traditional chemical acid dyes in leather dyeingCompleted B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with acid dyes Completed Deliverable B2 B4. Demonstration of the use of naturalised dyes in leather dyeing at laboratory levelCompleted B6. Demonstration of the use of naturalised dyes in leather dyeing at pilot scale levelOn going C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture Completed Deliverable C1 C5. Monitoring of the impact of the project actionsOn going C6. Monitoring of quality assessment for leather dyed with naturalised dyesOn going D. Dissemination actions (D.7-8-9, D.11-13, D.15)Continuos E1. Project managementContinuos

3. B6. Demonstration of naturalised dyes at pilot scale level Objective: Evaluate properties of naturalised dyes in the leather dyeing process by comparing with commercial metal-free acid dyes Tasks: Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP Dye fastness test: – to rubbing (wet/dry) – to light – to PVC migration – to water – to perspiration – to washing Physical properties: – tensile strenght – elongation at break – tear strenght

4. Laboratory level Semi-industrial level Calf hides CommercialNatural Light3/421/2 PVC544 Watter spottingok Rubbing Dry555 Wet3/444/5 Washing Wool4/5 Cotton3/444/5 WaterWool222 Acrylic4/52/32 Polyester4/52/32 Polyamide222 Cotton3/421/2 Diacetate4/51/2 PerspirationWool13/44 Acrylic33/4 Polyester33/4 Polyamide23/4 Cotton244 Diacetate343/4

5. Laboratory level Semi-industrial level Sheep-skins CommercialNatural Light3/421/2 PVC544 Watter spottingok Rubbing Dry555 Wet3/444/5 Washing Wool4/5 Cotton3/444/5 WaterWool222 Acrylic4/52/32 Polyester4/52/32 Polyamide222 Cotton3/421/2 Diacetate4/51/2 PerspirationWool13/44 Acrylic33/4 Polyester33/4 Polyamide23/4 Cotton244 Diacetate343/4

6. C5. Monitoring of the impact of the project actions CHARACTERISATION OF RESIDUAL DYEING BATHS (Cattle hides) Naturalized dyespH Conductivity (µS/cm) COD (mg O 2 /l) BOD 5 (mg O 2 /l) Biodegradability (BOD 5 /COD) Yellow3.0112700610010500.17 Orange3.05910054009800.18 Blue3.01985055007700.14 Green (yellow/blue 50:50) 3.071024043008100.19 Violet (red/blue 50:50) 3.13953039008900.23 Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33) 3.11971041009300.23 Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/ blue 10:10:30:50) 3.15918038006900.18

7. C5. Monitoring of the impact of the project actions CHARACTERISATION OF RESIDUAL DYEING BATHS (Sheep-skins) Naturalized dyespH Conductivity (µS/cm) COD (mg O 2 /l) BOD 5 (mg O 2 /l) Biodegradability (BOD 5 /COD) Yellow3,0712500550016700,30 Orange3,0310120560012300,22 Blue3,0410190610011300,19 Green (yellow/blue 50:50) 3,01985045008900,20 Violet (red/blue 50:50) 3,0110460430010800,25 Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33) 3,071073049009500,19 Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/bl ue 10:10:30:50) 3,08975043008100,19

8. C6. Monitoring of quality assessment for leather dyed with naturalised dyes Physical test carried out on calf hides and sheepskins show the compliance with the minimum recommended values for the manufacture of footwear

9. 99 Next steps (January - June 2016) ACTION B7. Demonstration of the use of naturalised dyes in leather dyeing at pre- industrial scale level C6. Monitoring of quality assessment for leather dyed with naturalised dyes D. Dissemination actions E1. Project management

10. 10 Thanks for your attention