Update sunscreen 2015 Krisada Duangurai M.D.

chromophores DNA Collagen Lipid Elastic tissue

Transfer of sun light Chromophores Increase energy in their molecules Then change molecular structure to new molecules Or change to heat

Mechanism of UV

Triggers melanin production, How UV rays affect skin UVC UVB UVA Visible light IR 290 320 400 800 Wavelength (nm) Epidermis Dermis Hypodermis Causes strong inflammation and damages cells. Exfoliation cycle is affected. Skin peeling, allergic reaction, uneven pigmentation etc. Oxidizes melanin and affects collagen leading to photoaging. Chronic spot pigmentation, immune suppression, skin cancer etc. Triggers melanin production, Produces Superoxide, Damages skin cell

UVA and UVB UVA UVB UVA more pigmentation UVA more skin penetration UVA damage by radical mechanism Agings & Photoagings Pigmentation Cancer Radical mechanism UVB more sunburn and pigmentation after sunburn UVB damage to DNA UVB damage by direct actions Erythema Cancer Direct energy transfer mechanism

Sunscreen Sunscreen Chemical Nonchemical Sunlight UVA UVB visible light infrared Sunscreen Chemical Nonchemical

Mechanism of inorganic and organic sunscreen

Ideal UV Protection From the different characters of UVA and UVB, the UV technology should be designed to protect your skin effectively from both UVA and UVB. Protection of just one type of UV will not be effective. Data on file, Johnson & Johnson Neutrogena.

Evolution of Needs of UVA Protection UVB determined to be primarily responsible for skin cancer and skin aging (collagen breakdown, wrinkling, pigmentation). Protection of skin immune function correlates with UVA protection and NOT with SPF. 1970s – early 1980s 1980 – 1990s 2000s Pure UVA found to induce skin cancer, and adds to UVB induction. Pure UVA found to be capable of inducing skin aging effects (sagging, wrinkling, pigmentation). SPF levels in sunscreens increase.

Avobenzone Chemical SS Very unstable Can be stable by combination with Tinosorb and Mexoryl or DEHN(dialkyl naphthalate)

New UVA absorbers UVA TDSA(Mesoryl SX) UVA/UVB DTS(Mesoryl XL) MBBT(Tinosorb M) BEMT(Tinosorb S) DEHN (Corapan® TQ- diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate)

Specific Absorption of different Sunscreens Avobenzone Tinosorb S

TINOSORB®S vs. TINOSORB®M UV spectrum of TINOSORB® S recorded using a Perkin Elmer Lambda 16 Spectrometer. The broad-spectrum is due to the special design of the TINOSORB® S molecule. For comparison the UV spectrum of TINOSORB® M is also shown. TINOSORB® S is overall more efficient and TINOSORB® M reaches further into the far UV-A range. Ciba Specialty chemicals Inc. Pub No. PC.UVPS.TB.0212e02

The 3rd Dimension: Biological protection with Licochalcone With highly effective natural antioxidant Licochalcone A (Glycyrrhiza Inflata) Protect the skin cells against free radicals induced by UVA up to deeper skin layers

Highly effective natural antioxidant Licochalcone A From plants.... … to human cells Licochalcone A is a natural ingredient from the roots of Chinese Licorice Root Extract (Glycyrrhiza Inflata). Due to it’s origin with intensive UV radiation this plant has developed it’s own protection mechanism. UV radiation stimulates the enzyme production which is involved in release of Licochalcone A. The anti-oxidative efficacy protects the plant cells against free radicals induced by radiation and is now used as a highly effective active to protect cells in the deeper layers of the skin.

Bioavailability (penetration profile) Licochalcone A Bioavailability (penetration profile) 84 % Stratum 12 % Epidermis Licochalcone A penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin  Protect cell agains free radical up to dermis level 4 % Dermis

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Sunscreen Active ingredients Vehicle Chemical ss Physical ss Antioxidant Water base Oil base

FDA Sunscreen Labeling Guidelines at a Glance Sunscreens may be labeled “broad-spectrum” if they provide protection against both UVA and UVB radiation according to FDA-sanctioned test methods. Only broad-spectrum sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher may state that they help protect against skin cancer and early skin aging if used as directed with other sun protection measures. Broad-spectrum sunscreens with SPFs of 2-14 must display a warning that the product has not been shown to help prevent skin cancer or early skin aging. The terms “sunblock,” “sweatproof” and “waterproof” are no longer allowed on sunscreen labels. Sunscreens may claim to be “water-resistant,” but must specify whether they protect the skin for 40 or 80 minutes of swimming or sweating, based on standard testing. Sunscreens that are not water-resistant must instruct consumers to use a water-resistant sunscreen if swimming or sweating. A company cannot claim that its sunscreen products provide sun protection for more than two hours without submitting test results to prove this. The FDA has proposed a regulation that would require sunscreen products with SPF values higher than 50 to be labeled “SPF 50+.” The FDA is seeking additional data before making a final ruling. Learn more about high-SPF sunscreens. The FDA is currently reviewing the effectiveness of sunscreen wipes, powders, towelettes, as well as body washes and shampoo with sunscreen ingredients. No decisions have been made. For sunscreen spray products, the agency has requested additional data to establish effectiveness and to determine whether they present a safety concern if inhaled unintentionally.*  *The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends applying spray sunscreen in a well-ventilated room, or outdoors (keeping in mind that the wind may carry some sunscreen away). Keep your eyes and mouth closed when spraying sunscreen. When applying to the face, it’s best to spray the sunscreen on your hand and then apply to your face by hand.

FDA Sunscreen Labeling Guidelines at a Glance Sunscreens may be labeled “broad-spectrum” if they provide protection against both UVA and UVB radiation according to FDA-sanctioned test methods. Only broad-spectrum sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher may state that they help protect against skin cancer and early skin aging if used as directed with other sun protection measures. Broad-spectrum sunscreens with SPFs of 2-14 must display a warning that the product has not been shown to help prevent skin cancer or early skin aging.

FDA Sunscreen Labeling Guidelines at a Glance The terms “sunblock,” “sweatproof” and “waterproof” are no longer allowed on sunscreen labels. Sunscreens may claim to be “water-resistant,” but must specify whether they protect the skin for 40 or 80 minutes of swimming or sweating, based on standard testing. Sunscreens that are not water-resistant must instruct consumers to use a water-resistant sunscreen if swimming or sweating. A company cannot claim that its sunscreen products provide sun protection for more than two hours without submitting test results to prove this.

FDA Sunscreen Labeling Guidelines at a Glance The FDA has proposed a regulation that would require sunscreen products with SPF values higher than 50 to be labeled “SPF 50+.” The FDA is seeking additional data before making a final ruling. Learn more about high-SPF sunscreens. The FDA is currently reviewing the effectiveness of sunscreen wipes, powders, towelettes, as well as body washes and shampoo with sunscreen ingredients. No decisions have been made. For sunscreen spray products, the agency has requested additional data to establish effectiveness and to determine whether they present a safety concern if inhaled unintentionally.*

What to apply first? medication should always be the first product applied to a clean, washed face applying a moisturizer after the medication could actually enhance penetration of the medication apply a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher next finally, apply foundation, powder, blush and any other colored cosmetics