History of Fashion Design Practicum in Fashion Design Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

Objectives Upon completion of this lesson, the student will be able to: Identify major historical events of each time period Evaluate the history of fashion, textiles and the apparel field Interpret how historical events influenced our fashion history Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

Periods We Will Examine: Colonial America 1492-1763 Revolutionary Period 1764-1789 The New Nation 1790-1828 Western Expansion and Reform 1829-1859 Civil War 1860-1865 Reconstruction 1866-1877 Gilded Age 1878-1889 Progressive Era 1890-1913 Great War and Jazz Age 1914-1928 Depression and WW2 1929-1945 Modern Era 1946-1999 21st Century 2000-present Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

B. Settlers created trade goods and sent them to England Colonial America 1492-1763 Historical events: A. First settlers established colonies in the new land for England B. Settlers created trade goods and sent them to England C. Many of the first settlers were poor farmers or were wealthy dignitaries Fashions of the time: Clothing was made locally by hand or was imported Clothing choices were dictated by social standing Other clothing influences were climate, formal or informal activity and modesty Colonial America: Settlers of colonial times would often make their clothes themselves, by a local seamstress or a mantua-maker (French dressmaker who uses expensive fabrics). Fashion were imported from Europe. Expensive fabrics were imported such as silk from China, linen from Holland or wool from Scotland. Student reflections: Why would people make their own clothing in colonial times? (There were no sewing machines or industry yet) What colonists would buy imported fabrics? (Higher class dignitaries) Revolutionary Period: England won the Seven Years War against France but also increased their national debt. England begins to tax the colonies more heavily to reconcile the costs through the Tax Act and Townshend Duties. Colonists demand their own representative in Parliament but do not get it. This leads to the colonies uniting in a revolution against England. Women wear homespun gowns, made of only local products and labor, to show support of the liberty movement. Men in war do not have a standard uniform until George Washington adopts the hunting shirt as the official uniform. Student reflections: What significance does the hunting shirt as a uniform have? (Created unity of one troop that had men of all different colonies) II. Revolutionary Period 1764-1789 Historical events: A. England increased taxes on colonies to offset war expenses B. Colonists resented tax increase without direct representation in parliament Fashions of the time: A. Ladies appeared in homespun gowns B. Men in battle adopted the hunting shirt Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

A. Cotton gin is invented; cotton becomes leading textile III. The New Nation 1790-1828 Historical events: A. Americans experimented with how to govern themselves under the Articles of Confederation, and formed a new Constitution B. President Jefferson doubled the size of the nation by purchasing the Louisiana Territory Fashions of the time: A. Cotton gin is invented; cotton becomes leading textile B. French influence is seen in women’s fashions – higher waistlines and lower necklines III. The New Nation: Americans were not content with the Articles of the Confederation; founding fathers draft a new Constitution. Political disagreements spark in how the new nation should be governed causing political sides to be divided. After president Jefferson purchased the Louisiana Territory the Louis and Clark expeditions set out to explore the country’s new land. The cotton gin’s invention multiplied the amount of cotton that could be harvested from American farms, giving farmers greater livelihood and creating another big exporter for America. With tensions set so high amongst England, America was in search for a new ally, that was found in France. French influences were then seen not only in fashion, but also in art and architecture. Student reflections: What do you think the general attitudes of the colonials were at this time? What attitude do you think sparked women’s interest in French fashions? IV. Western Expansion and Reform Colonist set out to explore new territories in Texas, California, Oregon and other places in the Southwest. However this expansion did aid in the increased use of slavery and displacement of Native Americans. This expansion also created more division between those in the south who increased the use of slavery and those in the north who opposed it. Women began using the hoop for practical reasons as well as for its fashion. The hoop meant women no longer had to wear heavy layers of petticoats and it lessened necessary laundering. The hoop was so functional that middle class women and maids could use it in their laborious tasks. Student reflections: What do you think the creation of the public school system did for children of lower and middle class families? How would wearing a hoop instead of a petticoat ease a woman’s daily tasks? IV. Western Expansion and Reform 1829-1859 Historical events: A. Western expansion makes America the world’s largest democracy B. Americans felt optimistic and approved social reforms such as the public school system and improving the treatment of the insane and imprisoned Fashions of the time: A. Women began using the hoop to support a fuller skirt silhouette B. The hoop was used by women of various social standings Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

VI. Reconstruction 1866-1877 Historical events: V. Civil War 1860-1865 Historical events: A. Tension in the country grew over the conflict of how much control the federal government should have over the states B. The Civil War began and lasted four years, at a cost of more than half a million lives Fashions of the time: A. Department stores were established in urban areas, increasing the availability of ready-to- wear clothing B. Women had to make smaller hoop skirts due to the cloth shortage from northern mills VI. Reconstruction 1866-1877 Historical events: A. President Andrew Johnson initiated The Reconstruction Acts to reunite former opponents of the war. A. Women’s bodices had high necklines and fitted sleeves, with small skirt hoops to keep all the draped fabric away from the feet. V. Civil War: After four years of battle the Confederacy lost the war and the Union was restored. However it would take years to restore the South (where most of the battles took place) both physically and financially. Other problems our country faced afterward were how to help freedmen (former slaves); and how to operate the country’s government, maintaining that all political representatives are loyal to the union’s progress. Student reflections: If there were no new clothing or fabrics available, what items around your home could you use to make clothing when necessary? (bedding or window treatments) VI. Reconstruction: Due to The Reconstruction Acts: the14th amendment was issued, granting former slaves national citizenship, as was the 15th amendment, granting former slaves the right to vote. Student reflections: At this time in our country’s history, America was trying to rebuild itself. How do you think fashions change today after a region in our country tries to repair itself such as after a natural disaster? (student responses will vary) Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

B. Many people produced great fortunes in this period VII. Gilded Age 1878-1889 Historical events: A. The growing number of iron, steel and lumber industries increased demand for improved transportation B. Many people produced great fortunes in this period Fashions of the time: A. Sturdier fabrics like velvet, satin and wool were used – except in the summers B. This period had many restricting tight corsets and bustles VII. Guilded Age: This period provided rapid wealth for notable businessmen such as John D. Rockefeller (oil industry) and Andrew Carnegie (steel industry). There was much controversy about business practices of those titans of industry. The most notable occurrences in this period are the boom of industry and the surge of new immigrants that came to America. Student reflections: What would you hypothesize the effects of a booming economy and improved transportation would have on the fashion industry? How would this effect you if you were a designer at this time? VIII. Progressive Era: American opinion was popularly changing to assist other countries in war due to the economy prospering. America entered the war, later known as the Spanish-American war. The aftermath was the ownership of Hawaii and Puerto Rico were in question. Haute couture houses of this time are Doucet, Lanvin, Lucile and Callot. Student reflections: By this time in our country cities were growing fast thanks to the growth of Industry. What differences do you think you would see in dress of someone living in the city to someone living in rural areas? VIII. Progressive Era 1890-1913 Historical events: A. America entered Cuba’s war with Spain B. Americans faced problems of poverty and class warfare after the fast rise of industry Fashions of the time: A. Dresses were very well constructed and had a lot of details, such as lace, cording, applique and beading B. Tight corsets of the previous period were loosened Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

IX. Great War and Jazz Age 1914-1928 Historical events: A. America became more involved in foreign affairs, joined the Allied Powers and entered World War I B. Women gained the right to vote C. African American history was celebrated with the popular onset of Jazz music Fashions of the time: A. Skirt hems rose to knee length B. Fashion trends were loosened, simplified in design, and made more practical IX. Great War and Jazz Age: America joined the World War and fought with allied countries Great Britain, Japan, Italy, France, Belgium and Serbia. World War I ended in 1919 and women won the right to vote in 1920. Jazz musicians Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington rose to popularity. The radio entered its “golden age.” Many Americans listened to the radio for news and politics as well as entertainment programs and various types music. Student reflection: How does music influence your creativity/work? X. Depression and World War II: Many Americans lost all of their savings, their homes and their jobs during the Depression, even those who had not invested in the stock market. People pulled all their money from the bank fearing the bank would run out of money, banks shut down, businesses closed because they could not pay their employees. When President Franklin D. Roosevelt was elected he promised Americans a “New Deal.” The new deal institutionalized banking and employment reforms to help the country get back on its feet. Student reflections: Why would manufacturers prefer to use zippers to hook and eye closures? (Less time intensive in manufacturing) X. Depression and World War II 1929-1945 Historical events: A. October 29, 1929 is known as “Black Tuesday,” the day the stock market crashed B. Unemployment and poverty hit all-time peaks C. America got out of the Depression about 1941 when we entered World War II Fashions of the time: A. Americans began using rayon, nylon, and zippers more commonly B. Films influenced fashion trends; women wore bias cut dresses as seen in Hollywood Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.

XII. 21st Century 2000-present XI. Modern Era 1946-1999 Historical events: A. President Truman in 1949 enacted the “Fair Deal” that made it illegal to not employ an American due to his or her religion or race B. America won the space race in 1969 with Neil Armstrong as the first man to walk on the moon Fashions of the time: A. Dior introduced the “new look” that consisted of fuller skirts and exaggerated bust lines B. 1950s birthed pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear) garments. U.S. War Production Board measured 100,000 women to standardized measurements for the garment industry XII. 21st Century 2000-present A. In 2001, America was attacked by terrorists at the World Trade Center in New York and the Pentagon in DC A. Pants sat lower on hips and were more fitted down the leg XI. Modern Era: This period covers the largest span of time. Americans through these decades continued to see our country change as it got involved in wars, saw new technologies develop and had new laws passed to improve the quality of life for all of its citizens. Our country continues to thrive under its principle governing laws set in democracy. Fashion continues to be influenced by the attitudes of our culture at the time, our economy, music and films. Designers use attitudes and trends of the past to determine what trends he/she thinks will be accepted by modern society. Student reflections: What do you notice about today’s society that would influence modern fashions? XII: 21st Century: This period events and fashions occurred/are occurring during your lifetime. The 21st Century has seen great strides made in communications and available information via the internet. Student reflection: As a teenager growing up, how do you feel changes in society have affected the way you dress? Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2015. All rights reserved.