Waves in shallow water, II Lecture 6 Tsunami, seen from top floor of hotel in Sri Lanka 2004 C. Chapman.

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Waves in shallow water, II Lecture 6 Tsunami, seen from top floor of hotel in Sri Lanka 2004 C. Chapman

Waves in shallow water, II Today (Lecture 6): Review derivation of KdV and KP Tsunami of 2004 Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation: theory and experiment “Shallow water equations” (if time permits)

Review of theory for shallow water 1.Governing equations (no surface tension) on z =  (x,y,t), - h < z <  (x,y,t), on z = - h.

Review of theory for shallow water 2. To derive KP (or KdV) Assume Small amplitude waves a << h Shallow water (long waves) h << L x Nearly 1-D motion L x << L y All small effects balance  << 1,

At leading order: Wave equation in 1-D: with 

At leading order: Wave equation in 1-D: with  At next order, satisfies either KdV or KP

A. Tsunami of Dec. 26, 2004 Kenji Satake, Japan or, see Steven Ward, US

Tsunami of 2004 Approximate Length scales: Indian Ocean h = 3.5 km

Tsunami of 2004 Approximate Length scales: Indian Ocean h = 3.5 km For tsunami: a = 1-2 m

Tsunami of 2004 Approximate Length scales: Indian Ocean h = 3.5 km For tsunami: a = 1-2 m L x = 100 km

Tsunami of 2004 Approximate Length scales: Indian Ocean h = 3.5 km For tsunami: a = 1-2 m L x = 100 km L y = 1000 km c = 650 km/hr (wave speed) u = 200 m/hr ( water speed)

Tsunami of 2004 Kenji Satake, Japan

Tsunami of 2004 Q: Was the tsunami a soliton?

Tsunami of 2004 Q: Was the tsunami a soliton? A: No KdV (or KP) dynamics occurs on a long time scale. For tsunami, typical horizontal length = 100 km Distance across the Bay of Bengal = 1500 km Too short for KdV dynamics to develop.

Tsunami of 2004 Q: Can a tsunami become a soliton? A: Perhaps The largest earthquake ever recorded occurred off Chile in May, After 15 hours, it killed 61 people in Hawaii. After 22 hours, it killed 197 people in Japan.

Volume of water displaced (per width of shoreline) ~100 km ~1 m

Wave speed fast slow h1h1 h2h2 Open ocean –c = 650 km/hr –A wave 100 km long passes by in about 9 minutes Near shore –Front of wave slows as it approaches the shore –Back of the wave is still in deep water –Consequence: Wave compresses horizontally and grows vertically

The tsunami reaches land Statue of Thiruvalluvar (ancient Tamil poet) at southern tip of India - statue 133 ft tall (thanks to M. Lakshmanan &

Speculation on wave dynamics The first wave that hit Thailand was negative (wave of depression).

Simple, crude predictions (for tsunami warning system) A tsunami can be generated by a thrust fault, a normal fault or a landslide (all under water). A strike-slip fault (by itself) will not generate a tsunami. A crucial quantity for estimating the size of a tsunami is the volume of water displaced by the underwater seismic event.

More simple predictions (for tsunami warning system) The time required for the tsunami to propagate from x 1 to x 2 along a fixed path is approximately

More simple predictions (for tsunami warning system) The time required for the tsunami to propagate from x 1 to x 2 along a fixed path is approximately The detailed dynamics of a tsunami near shore seem to be poorly understood.

Hurricane Katrina - Sept The damaging part of the hurricane was the storm surge, which travels with speed and carries mass

Other waves in shallow water Most ocean surface waves are caused by storms and winds. Travel thousands of kms, over several days Oscillate, approximately periodically Long waves travel faster than short waves

Other waves in shallow water Objective: Find the natural structure(s) of oscillatory ocean waves, including those in shallow water

Oscillatory waves in shallow water Simplest model: All waves travel with speed = For long waves of moderate amplitude, all traveling in approximately the same direction in water of uniform depth, a better approximation is: (Kadomtsev & Petviashvili, 1970)

Oscillatory waves in shallow water Miracle: The KP equation is completely integrable. It admits an infinite family of periodic or quasiperiodic solutions of (  ). All of these have the form where  is a Riemann theta function of genus g (g = integer). The genus is the number of independent phases in the solution.

References on quasiperiodic KP solutions Krichever (1976, 1977a,b, 1989) Dubrovin (1981) Bobenko & Bordag (1989) Belokolos, Bobenko, Enol’skii, Its & Matveev (1994) Dubrovin,Flickinger & Segur (1997) Deconinck & Segur (1998) Feldman, Krörrer & Trubowitz (2003) Deconinck, Heil, Bobenko, van Hoeij, Schmies (2004)