Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machine Part 3: Double Jersey Jacquard Fabrics Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning Objectives Rib Jacquard fabrics Imitation fabric Jacquard Eyelets Jacquard Rib on Plain French Rib Blister Fabric Jacquard Backing

Rib Jacquard Fabrics Rib Jacquard fabrics are referred to colour jacquard fabric produced on knitting machine with two set of needles. On circular machine, cylinder needles are used to knit pattern and the dial needles are used for backing Unlike single jersey, there is no float yarns at the back, the dial needles will form loops on all the yarn whether they have to show on face or not. Can you tell which fabric is single or double jacquard ?

Characteristics The fabric properties will affect by: yarn parameters; dial height; fabric structure; type of jacquard backing and type of finishing In general, double knit jacquard has: Width Normal 60” and is rather stable because no tuck stitch

Characteristics (II) Length Weight and Thickness Similar to single jersey, fabric length is inversely proportional to number of colour in pattern. Weight and Thickness Fabric weight will depend on type of backing used. Sometimes fabric weight will reduce if increase number of colours, (It is because of stretching of fabric loop0. For thickness, rib jacquard fabrics are thicker than single knit (because of needles loops on both side of fabric)

Characteristics (III) Surface Appearance looks acceptable if on relaxed states. But if stretching the fabric, unwanted colours will show up. Elasticity Fairly good but will be a disadvantages for formal suiting fabrics. Application and machine used refer to table

End-uses for double jersey jacquard fabric

Circular machines for producing double jersey jacquard fabric Production increases upward Pattern size increases downward

Unconventional Circular Double Jersey Jacquard Fabrics

Imitation lace A fabric is actually with TWO layers of plain knit fabric tubes and join together by tuck stitch to form one unique fabric. If two tubes are of different colours, small holes made by tuck stitches will show through and patterns are composed by small holes like jacquard lace.

Imitation lace Two layers of plain fabric joined by tuck stitches.

Characteristics Imitation lace This is in fact, two layers of plain knit and linked together by tuck stitch. The space is filled with air, therefore fabric is thicker than colour jacquard. If the lace is modified with one layer of polyester wool yarn, the other is cotton, together with wide spaced linking points, the fabric will give cockling effect. Ideas to keep warm and winter casual wear

Quilt fabric Modification of imitation lace by inserting high bulk nylon filament in between two layers of fabrics This sandwich fabric will be more bulk and more suitable for winter casual wear /sport wear.

Quilt Fabric Modification of Imitation lace by inserting High bulk nylon in between two layers of fabric

Jacquard Eyelets Eyelet on rib fabrics Jacquard mechanism is used to transfer the selected cylinder loops to dial needles After transfer, the empty needle knit again and form holes on the fabric surfaces. The basic structure of jacquard eyelet is 1 X 1 rib, knitted with single colour. Machine used is the revolving cam box of 12-14 npi.

Jacquard Eyelets Eyelets or holes on fabric surface Formed by special revolving cam box knitting machine

Jacquard rib on plain Mixture of colour jacquard and transfer jacquard on fabric surface, rib pattern is thicker than the plain area Fabric is knitted with 2 to 3 colour with horizontal or birdeye backing.

Jacquard Rib on Plain Rib Loops Rib Pattern Plain Loops Plain Background

Rib on plain fabric Rib as pattern Plain as background