Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 17 Tuesday 23 February 2010 FASHION AND CONSUMERS’ LIFESTYLES,

1. From Couture to Prêt-à-porter Paul Poiret in the 1940s

Christian Dior, From Couture to Prêt-à-porter Marcel Boussac

Yves St. Laurent ( )

Gianfranco Ferré Hedi Sliimane ( )

2. Pret-à-Porter prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) was invented by Jean Claude Weill in 1949 and should be distinguished from the expression ‘ready-made’

2. Pret-à-Porter Lipovetsky thinks that prêt-à-porter changed the rules of fashion: 1.it provided an alternative between couture and mass; 2.it allowed a stronger link with the fashion of the new fashion leaders: the young; 3. and in the long-run couture disappears entirely

3. The Birth of Italian Fashion The first Italian Fashion catwalk was organised by Giovanni Battista Giorgini in Florence on the 12 February 1951

Salvatore Ferragamo’s Workshop in Florence before the second world war Present at the Florence show, 12 February 1951: Sorelle Fontana Emilio Schulberth Jole Veneziani Emilio Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo

Creation of the Sorelle Fontana, early 1950s, inspired by a Renaissance painting

Actor Tyrone Power married Linda Christian in Rome in The bride wore a dress by Sorelle Fontana.

Audrey Hepburn ( ) with Salvatore Ferragamo ( ) Ava Gardner ( ) wearing the ‘Pretino’ (little Priest) dress by the Sorelle Fontana

Sofia Loren (1934- ) with Jayne Mansfield ( )

Elio Fiorucci opened 300 shops in Italy in the 1960s Fiorucci’s advert of the 1980s

Missoni’s zig-zag knitwear Krizia

‘Milano da Bere – Milan to Drink in the Ramazzotti Advert came to symbolize the refined atmosphere of the Italian capital of fashion in the 1980s

4. The 1980s

5. The End of Class and Nationality? The possible decline of ‘class’ as a way of structuring fashion should be qualified in three ways: 1.subcultures provide a different way of ‘reading’ society; 2.Society is more flexible and malleable. Bauman talks about a ‘liquid society’; 3. We should differentiate between the UK and the rest of Europe.

6. Youth Fashion Culture

James Dean and Marlon Brando, both wearing jeans