Trichos= Hair Ology=the study of Trichology is the study of Hair

. Prepared by: Steve Ellis

Hair Analysis Wave Pattern and Tendencies Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand Hair texture can be classified as course, medium and fine

Story of the Strand The hair is broken into 2 parts - the Root is the part of the hair located below the surface of the skin - the Shaft is the portion of the hair that projects above the skin

Structure of the Root The Root is broken into 5 parts: 1-Follicule 2-Bulb 3- Dermal Papilla 4-Arrector Pili 5-Sebaceous Glands

Follicle The tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the root. It extends downward through the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) into the dermis ( the inner layer of the skin)

Hair Bulb The lowest area or part of the hair strand. It is the thickened, club-shaped structure that forms the hair root. The lower part of the hair blub fits over and covers the dermal papilla.

Dermal Papilla A small cone-shaped elevation located at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb. The dermal papilla contains the blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients needed for hair growth.

Arrector Pili A minute, involuntary muscle fiber in the skin inserted in the base of the hair follicle. Fear or cold causes it to contract, which makes the hair stand up straight resulting in “goose bumps”.

Sebaceous Gland The oil glands of the skin, connected to the hair follicles. The sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance called sebum, which lubricates the hair and skin.

Structure of the Shaft The Shaft is broken into 3 parts: -Cuticle - Cortex -Medulla

Cuticle The outermost layer of the hair It consist of scale like cells that over lap like shingles on a roof. A healthy cuticle layer protects the hair from penetration and prevents damage to hair fibers

Cortex The middle layer of the hair About 90% of the strength of the hair comes from the cortex Hair elasticity and color structure is located in within the cortex. Hair-coloring, wet-styling, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing all take place in the cortex.

Medulla The inner most layer of the hair It is quite common for very fine and naturally blonde hair to entirely lack a medulla Generally only thick course hair contains a medulla

Chemical Structure of Hair “The Proteins” Hair is composed of proteins that grow from cells originating within the hair follicle Hair is approximately 91% protein

Amino Acids Amino Acids are the units of structure in protein They are linked together end to end

Peptide Bond The bond that that joins amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond A long chain of amino acids linked together by peptide bonds is called a polypeptide chain

Chemical Structure of Hair “The Bonds” The Cortex, middle layer of hair , is made up of millions of polypeptide chains Polypeptide chains are crossed-linked together by 3 different types of side bonds; hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and disulfide bonds These side bonds hold the hair fibers together and account for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair

Hydrogen Bond Physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heat Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about 1/3 of the hairs overall strength

Salt Bond Also physical side bond, but is broken by changes in pH Salt bonds are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions and also account for 1/3 of the hairs overall strength

Disulfide Bond A chemical side bond that differs greatly from physical hydrogen or salt bonds Disulfide bonds join sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine amino acids to create cystine There are far fewer than the physical bonds, but they are stronger and account for another 1/3 of the hairs overall strength

Hair Pigment Melanin All natural hair color is the result of the pigment located within the cortex Melanin is the tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that give natural color to the hair Two different types of melanin are eumelanin and pheomelanin

Eumelanin Provides brown and black color to hair

Pheomelanin Provides natural hair colors from red and ginger to yellow/blonde tones

Haircolor vs Hair Color Hair Color refers to the color of hair created by nature Haircolor is the term used in the industry to refer to artificial haircoloring products Natural Haircolor is the ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin along with the total number and size of pigment granules Grey Hair is caused by the absence of melanin

Hair Analysis Wave Pattern and Tendencies Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand Hair texture can be classified as course, medium and fine

Hair Texture Course hair texture has the largest diameter and has a stronger structure Medium hair texture is the most common and is the standard to which other hair is compared Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile and easier to process

Hair Density Measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch of the scalp. The average is 2200 hair per square inch and 100,000 total Low density = thin hair Medium density = Average or normal numbers of hairs per square inch High density = thick hair or a high numbers per square inch

Hair Porosity Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture Hair with low porosity is considered resistant hair it requires more alkaline solution to raise the cuticle for processing Hair with average porosity is considered normal hair

Types of Porosity Resistant- cuticle lays close to hair shaft; absorbs slowly and requires longer processing time

Good Porosity Cuticle slightly raised from shaft and absorbs moisture and/or chemicals in average time Normal Hair that can absorb moisture in average time

Overly Porous Hair Overly porous is often the result of over processing Hair is damaged, dry, fragile, and brittle Chemical services require less alkaline solutions with a lower pH to prevent additional over processing

Damaged, Over processed Hair Hair is Dry, Brittle and Fragile Until damaged hair is cut do not perm

Extreme Porosity Use a lower Ph solution Proceed with Caution

Elasticity The ability of hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking Normal Elasticity in hair will stretch up to 50% of its original length when wet Low Elasticity is hair that is brittle and breaks easily; will not hold a curl and is the result of weak side bonds

Growth Patterns Hair Stream is hair flowing in the same direction; result of follicles sloping in the same direction. Two stream flowing in opposite directions create a natural part Whorl is hair that forms a circular pattern as on the crown Cowlick is a tuft of hair that stands straight up

Dry Hair and Scalp Dry hair in scalp is caused by inactive sebaceous gland and is aggravated by dry winter or desert climate The lack of natural oils leads to a flaky scalp and hair appears dull, dry and lifeless

Oily Hair and Scalp Caused by overactive sebaceous gland and characterized by greasy buildup on the scalp and an oily coating on the hair

Hair Growth Types of Hair There are 2 main types of hair found on the body; Vellus (or Lanugo) and Terminal hair Vellus is short, fine, downy, unpigmented hair covering most of the body except palms and soles of the feet Terminal hair is long, think pigmented hair found on the scalp, legs, arms and bodies of males and females

3 Growth Cycles of Hair Anagen is the growing phase Average growth is about 2 inches per month 90% of hair is growing at one time Grows for a period of from two to six years Hair grows faster on women than men Grows faster between ages of 15-30 and slows sharply after age 50

Catagen Transition phase, ends the growth phase and last only one to two weeks Follicle canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla Hair bulb disappears and the shrunken root end forms a rounded club

Telogen Resting phase Follicle begins a 3 to 6 month phase of resting About 10% of hair is in Telogen phase at one time The cycle then begins again, growth cycle repeats itself every 4 to 5 years

6 Hair Growth Myths Myth #1 question Clipping, shaving, trimming, and cutting makes hair grow faster ?

Fact They have no effect on hair growth

Myth #2 Scalp massage increases hair growth

Fact No evidence to indicate this is true. Minoxidil and Finasteride are the only treatments that have been proven to increase hair growth and are approved for that purpose by the FDA

Myth #3 Grey hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair?

Fact Other than lack of pigment, grey hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair. It is not resistant because it is gray, and is not more resistant than pigmented hair on the same persons head

Myth #4 Amount of natural curl is determined by racial background?

Fact Anyone of any race can have straight or extremely curly hair

Myth #5 Hair with round cross-section is straight; hair with oval cross-section is wavy; hair with flat cross-section is curly?

Truth Cross-sections of straight hair tend to be round and curlier hair tends to be more oval, but cross-sections of hair almost any shape, including triangular; the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl or the shape of the follicle

Androgenetic Alopecia Caused by a combination of heredity, hormones and age causes progressive shrinking or miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus hair. Known as male pattern baldness Affects 40 million men in US Affects 20 million women in US

Alopecia Areata Sudden loss of hair in round or irregular patches; may occur on scalp or anywhere else on body. Its highly unpredictable and affects almost 5 million people in the US

Postpartum Alopecia Temporary hair loss at conclusion of pregnancy. Growth cycle generally returns to normal within one year after the baby is delivered

7 Disorders of the Hair Canities- Congenitial canities is grey hair that is at birth. Acquired canities is both premature and grey hair at old age. Ringed Hair is alternate bands of gray and dark hair Hypertrichosis is the growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that normally only grows vellus hair

7 Disorders of the Hair Trichoptilosis- split ends Trichorrehxis Nodosa- knotted hair; a dry brittle condition including formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft Monilethrix-beaded hair; hair breaks between the beads or nodes Fragilitas Crinium- brittle hair that causes splitting

Disorders of the Scalp Dandruff- pityriasis= small white scales that usually appear on the scalp and hair there are 2 types of Pityriasis

Pityriasis Dry Type; characterized by itchy scalp and small white scales attached to the scalp or scattered loosely in the hair. Sluggish scalp is caused by poor circulation, lack of nerve stimulation, improper diet, emotional and glandular disturbances, and poor personal hygiene

Pityriasis Greasy or Wax Type; scales become mixed with sebum, causing them to stick to scalp in patches; medical treatment is advisable

. Both forms are contagious and can be spread by the common use of implements. Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will prevent the spread of this condition

Vegetable Parasitic Infections Tinea is the technical term for Ringworm. It is caused by vegetable parasites and is highly contagious. It begins with a small, reddened patch of little blisters. You should refer client to physician

Vegetable Parasitic Infections Tinea Capitis is ringworm of the scalp and is characterized by red papules or spots at opening of hair follicles causing hair to break

Vegetable Parasitic Infections Tinea Favosa is Honeycomb ringworm and is characterized by dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crust on scalp called scutula; it gives off an odor; scars from favus anr pink or white, shiny bald patches. Its very contagious and should be referred to a physician

Animal Parasitic Infections Scabies “itch mite”- highly contagious and caused by itch mite; vesicles and pustules from the irritation of the parasites or from scratching the affected area

Animal Parasitic Infections Pediculosis Capitis is a contagious condition caused by head lice infesting the hair and scalp; itching occurs and resultant scratching can cause infection. Refer to a physician

Staphylococci Infections Furuncle or boil- an infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain and a pustule perforated by hair Carbuncle- an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci; similar to a furuncle but larger. Refer both to a physician