Fabrics Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02

Fabric Construction: Weaving and Knitting

Woven Fabrics Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles to each other

Plain Weave Simplest of all weaves Most common Over, under; over, under **broadcloth, gingham, poplin muslin, and many others

Twill Weave Diagonal weave **denim, gabardine **firm, heavy weave

Satin Weave Shiny, reflects light Smooth and slippery Frays a lot **lustrous appearance

Leno Weave Pairs of threads crossed over Looks “open” Fruit bags, mosquito netting

Pile Weave Raised surface Loopy or furry Velvet Corduroy

Knits Weft – one yarn Warp – several yarns Purl – looks the same on both sides Purl Knit Warp Knit Weft Knit

Weft Knit** Uses one yarn **Single knit, ribbed and jersey

Double Knit 2 yarns and 2 sets of needles Heavier and sturdier Doesn’t run or ravel

Ribbed Knit Vertical ribs on front and back Neck and wrist bands on sweaters

Jersey Knit Most common knit Plain, single knit T-shirts

Tricot Knit Very fine vertical wales on the right side Stable knit – lies flat Doesn’t run or ravel Lingerie, underwear Very fast to weave

Raschel Knit Uses extra yarn to create a pattern

Non-woven Leather, lace, felt, disposable fabrics Heat, moisture Adhesive, bonding Yarns and layers

Non-woven Interlocking fibers Don’t fray or ravel Flexible Might tear easily

Felting Hot washing and drying wool Shrinks Soft and fluffy

Interfacing Very light to very heavy and stiff Padding (quilting) Fusible or sew-in

Fabric Finishes Special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or performance

“Gray Goods” Before any color or finish is added to the product.

Bleaching Used to remove impurities in fabric to ensure a “true dye.”

Yarn Dyed Yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting. Good for plaids, checks, and stripes. **

Fiber Dyed ** AKA “Stock Dyeing” Natural fibers dyed before spun into yarn Uniform color and good color fastness

Piece Dyed** Fabric dyed after weaving or knitting

Garment Dyed Fabric is cut and sewn Entire garment or item is dyed

Color is transferred to surface of fabric to form a pattern Printing Techniques Color is transferred to surface of fabric to form a pattern

Printing pres with circular rollers One for each color

Rotary Screen Fast, inexpensive 3500 yards per hour Good for large designs**

Texture and Performance Finishes Improves surface feel of fabric Improve comfort and wear ability

Napping Raised, Fuzzy Fabric

Sizing Extra body and weight Adds Starch

Weighting A textured finish applied to make the garment stiffer and heavier looking than it is Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter weight fabric and make it appear stronger than it really is