Seamanship Chapter 8 Marlinspike

Learning Objectives Learn the art and science of working with rope and line Understand knots, bends, hitches and splices also the selection and use of line and the proper care of line Marlinspike seamanship encompasses the art and science of working with rope and line. With the completion of this material the recreational boater should understand knots, bends, hitches, and splices. The selection and use of line and its proper care are also included in this chapter.

Definitions Marlinespike Marlinespike Seamanship A pointed tool used in splicing to open the strands of rope or cable Marlinespike Seamanship General knowledge of knots, bends, hitches, splices, and care of rope

Definitions Rope Cordage made of natural or synthetic fibers, also can be made of steel wire Line Name given rope aboard a boat Each line is given a specific name, such as: anchor line, halyard, main sheet, spring line or dock line A few are still called rope, as in bell rope

Rope Strengths Safe load is 20% of breaking strength Dacron® is the trade name for polyester fiber The safe load or working strength of a line is 20% of its breaking strength Dacron is the registered trade name for polyester fiber. See Table for Breaking Strength of Rope

Effect of Knots Lines are weakened by: Knots – typically to 50-60% Splices – least reduction to 90% Any bend or kink in a line will weaken it. Different knots, bends and hitches have varying effects See Table

Definitions Working Part Standing Part Section of line used in forming a knot Standing Part The part of a line that is: made fast not used in forming a knot around which the knot may be tied In use, normally under strain

Definitions Bitter End Working End Inboard end of a line, chain or cable The end made fast to the boat Working End Attached to an anchor or cleat, etc.

Parts of a Line Bitter end Working part 

More Definitions Bight Standing part Free end Turn Round turn Turn Bight – formed when a rope is doubled back on itself and never around an object Standing Part – previously defined (see slide for example) Free End or bitter end Turn – a 180 degree to 270 degree wrap of a line around an object Round Turn – a 540 degree turn around an object Knot – General sense – includes three classes of knots – knots, bends and hitches with each having specific characteristics Knots – specific sense – either creates a loop or a lump (stopper) in the end of a line. Bowline, figure 8 Bend – used to attach two lines together. Sheet bend, square knot Hitch – used to attach a line to an object. Cleat hitch, clove hitch Free End

Bight Line turned back against itself 

Overhand Loop Working Part Bitter End Bitter end looped over the working part 

Underhand Loop Working Part Bitter End Bitter end looped under the working part 

Turn Line looped around object, but not full turn 

Round Turn Line looped around object one and a half full turns 

Choosing A Line Braided Common laid rope Diamond braid over a core Easy on hands High strength Slippery Common laid rope 3 strands twisted Tends to kink Stretches more Hard on hands Inexpensive Laid Line or rope – 3 strands twisted made from fibers, yarns and strands Tends to kink Stretches more then most other types Hard on the hands Inexpensive Line ends should be whipped to keep from unraveling Single Braid Line Diamond braid over a core Easy on the hands High strength Less stretch then laid line Can be slippery Double Braid Line Same appearance a single braid but inside the cover is another smaller braided line. Can be stronger and have less stretch then single braid Braided core may be made of less durable but enormously strong high tech fiber Parallel Core Line A wear resistant braid cover over a core of extremely high strength but somewhat fragile fibers like Kevlar or Spectra Core runs lengthwise inside the cover without being twisted or braided and usually takes the entire load

Material Polypropylene Nylon Polyester (Dacron®) Strongest and most elastic Elasticity absorbs shock Good for anchoring and mooring Polyester (Dacron®) Minimum of stretch Good for running rigging aboard sailboats Polypropylene Not as strong as nylon or Dacron Subject to abrasion, chafe & deterioration from sunlight Good point - it floats Nylon Strong and the most elastic to help absorb shock Resists rot Good resistance to environmental elements Polyester Line Strong with medium stretch Good for running rigging on cruising sailboats and dock lines Polypropylene and polyethylene Line Not as strong as nylon or polyester Subject to abrasion, chafe & deterioration from the sun It floats

3-Strand Laid Line 

Laid Line Details 

Double Braid 

Parallel Core 

Caring for Lines Overloading Avoid kinks & sharp bends Avoid chemicals Protect against chafing Regular cleaning Overloading Use at 20% of breaking strength Loading at 75% of breaking Strength may cause damage Avoid kinks & sharp bends Avoid chemicals Protect against chafing Regular cleaning

Caring for Lines Stow carefully Coiling Flemishing Stow carefully Loose line is dangerous on a boat All line not in use should be coiled Coiling Coil into the left hand Wrap the coil and run the free end through the upper loop Use the free end to hang the line Flemishing See a flemished line on board or on a dock; see an educated and “professional” boater No loose end to become a hazard

Common Whipping Whipping Methods Used to keep the end of a line from unraveling Methods With ‘small stuff’ or twine Taping Liquid whip Melting nylon line ends Whipping A general term covering the treatment of the ends of a line to keep them from unraveling or fraying Methods With ‘small stuff’ or twine – use either waxed 40# test 3 strand Dacron twine or 50-80# test Dacron braid fishing line Taping (don’t expect long lasting results) Liquid whip Melting nylon line ends – you want a melt plug at least 1/16 inch thick to form in the end of the line Plastic shrink sleeves

Chafing Gear Protects line from chafing on chocks and hawse pipes Commercially available Home made using old Water hose Overloading Use at least 20% of breaking strength Loading at 75% of breaking strength may cause damage Damage might be indicated by a noticeable reduction in the size of the line or a noticeable permanent increase in the length of the line Avoid kinks & sharp bends Avoid chemicals – most modern marine line is resistant to most common chemicals but why take the chance Environmental – sunlight and ozone are both weathering agents and can affect lines Protect against chafing Regular cleaning – can be laid out and hose down with clean fresh water All lines must be protected from chafing Try to rout the line to avoid rubbing contact with hard objects Protects line form chafing on chocks and hawse Pipes Commercially available through marine stores or can be home made using old water hose

Classes of Knots Hitches Bends Knots secure a line to an object attach two lines together Knots install a loop or a stopper in a line 

Coiling a Line Start by lacing line over your hand Form generous loops until line is coiled Make two turns around coil Feed working end through coil 1 2 3 4 If one end is attached, coil the line from the fixed end to the loose end Start by lacing line over your hand Twist line with your fingers so the coils lay flat against each other Form generous loops until line is coiled Make two turns around coil Feed working end through coil

Basic Knots or Bends A good knot is easy to tie and easy to untie Knots or bends weaken line by as much as 50% A good knot: Performs the intended job is easy to tie and replicate easy to untie doesn’t capsize or untie itself unexpectedly Knots or bends weaken line by as much as 50% The five basic knots to be learned are the Figure 8 Knot, the Bowline, the Sheet Bend, the Clove Hitch, and the Cleat Hitch. Two phases to successfully tie a knot: Crossing the lines in the correct order Tightening or closing the knot properly 

Figure 8 

Figure Eight Start by forming an underhand loop Lead the free end under the standing part Feed the free end through the loop formed by the underhand loop Pull the knot tight Used to put a “lump” in the bitter end of a line or sheet so it can’t pass through a block or grommet Start by forming an underhand loop or bight Lead the free end under the standing part Feed the free end through the loop formed by the underhand loop Pull the know tight Optional method – twist bight 1 full turn and slip the bitter end through the bight loop and pull until tight

Figure-8 Construction 

Bowline 

Bowline Form overhand loop Feed free end: through loop around standing part into loop The most respected knot for creating a loop in the end of a line. Form an overhand loop leaving the bitter end 3 times as long as the length of the loop you are creating with the Bowline. Feed the free end through the loop Feed the free end around the standing part Feed the free end into the loop To finish the knot- hold the bitter end and the part of the large loop next to it in one hand and place the other hand on the working part and pull. Can be easily loosened and untied by pulling back on the loop around the working part

Bowline Construction 

Sheet Bend 

Sheet Bend Use to join two lines of different diameter Form a bight in one line Lead free end of second line through bight and around Standing part of first line Tuck free end of second line under standing part of line two Snug up the bend

Sheet Bend Construction 

Clove Hitch 

Clove Hitch Form an underhand loop around post Lead free end above the turn Now form another underhand loop around post Use a half hitch as a “locking knot” to keep the clove hitch from slipping Used to attach a line to a round pile or post Good Properties: A tenacious slip knot that will tightly constrict a wood pile. It will not slip down the pile It is easy to tie and untie under strain Negative – if the load moves back and forth the hitch will rotate on the post allowing the working part to pull out the hitch and for the bitter end to be drawn into the hitch. This can be solved by adding 2 half hitches with the bitter end around the working part Form an underhand loop around the post Lead the free end above the turn Now form another underhand loop around the post and pull it tight

Clove Hitch Construction 

Cleat Hitch 

Cleat Hitch Take 3/4 turn under horn away from the load Lead free end over and under opposite horn Lead free end over and under other horn Tuck free end under last turn Secure and reliable and can be untied under load Used to secure a line to a cleat Take at least a ¾ turn under the horn away from the load – can use up to 1 ½ turns on a standard cleat or more if the base is smooth, polished and rounded Lead the free end over and under the opposite horn Lead the free end over and under the other horn Tuck the free end under the last turn The first and third diagonals should be parallel and under the second diagonal Use a Flemish Coil to stow the free end

Cleat Hitch Construction 

Round Turn & Two Half Hitches Make a round turn around post or ring Lead free end around standing part forming an underhand loop Repeat the last step Can be used to secure a line to a round post or ring Make a round turn around the post or a ring Lead the free end around the standing part forming an underhand loop Repeat the last step

Anchor Bend Take round turn around anchor ring or post Make turn around the standing part Feed free end through center of round turn Make round turn around standing part and snug up the bend Not a required knot A variation of the Round Turn with Two Half Hitches but is more secure when fastened to the ring on an anchor shank. Take a round turn around the anchor ring or a post Make a turn around the standing part Feed the free end through the center of the round turn Make a round turn around the standing part and snug up the bend You might want to seize the bitter end to the working part as a further security precaution

Reef or Square Knot Good Uses Should not be used for a varying load Furling sails Reefing sails Lashing small stuff Should not be used for a varying load Not a required knot for class Good Uses Furling sails Reefing sails Lashing small stuff Should not be used for a varying load Lines should the ends of the same line or be identical in size and type It is critical that the two bitter ends are in line and on opposite sides of the bend.

Heaving a Line Tosser Receiver Splits line coil in half Tosses one coil underhand to the receiver Receiver Holds arm out as target Lets line fall over out-stretched arm This is the art of passing a line between boats or between a boat and a pier or the shore. Use line 3/8 to ¾ inch for best weight Practical throwing distance is 2/3 the length of the line up to about 30 feet. Tosser Secure bitter end to a fixed object Splits line coil in half Aim for extended arm and not the body of the receiver Tosses line underhand, like you are bowling, to the receivers side Receiver Holds an arm out as a target Lets line fall over an out-stretched arm

The correct way to wrap a line around a winch. Start by wrapping line clockwise Pile wraps up from bottom to top Make more turns for a heaver load The correct way to wrap a line around a winch. This will not jam. Winch - Geared drum turned by a handle and used to pull lines such as sheets and halyards Winches are mechanical devices designed to multiply your pulling force found normally on larger sailboats and used for halyards and sheets Start by wrapping the line clockwise – need about 3 turns of line on the drum Pile the wraps up from the bottom to the top Make more turns for a heavier load To pay out line from a winch, reduce the tailing tension until the line slips backwards around the drum Some winches have a self-tailing feature

Winch This is the incorrect way to lead a line to a winch. This will jam. This is the incorrect way to lead a line to a winch. This will jam.

Blocks and Tackle Block Sheave A nautical name for a pulley Roller in a block over which line passes as it goes through block Blocks and tackle are a time honored way of multiplying your force Block A nautical name for a pulley one or more rope wheels called sheaves Sheave Roller in a block over which a line passes as it goes through the block Tackle Arrangement of line running through the block or blocks used to provide increased mechanical advantage

Blocks and Tackle Tackle Winch Arrangement of line and blocks used to provide increased mechanical advantage Winch Geared drum turned by a handle and used to pull lines such as sheets and halyards Blocks and tackle are a time honored way of multiplying your force Block A nautical name for a pulley one or more rope wheels called sheaves Sheave Roller in a block over which a line passes as it goes through the block Tackle Arrangement of line running through the block or blocks used to provide increased mechanical advantage

Blocks and Tackles A B C D E 1:1 2:1 3:1 4:1 5:1 Determining the mechanical advantage of a block and tackle system can be relatively simple if you remember one basic rule – count the number of lines directly supporting or directly pulling the load. No free lunch With a 5:1 advantage, the distance moved by pulling the line will be 5 times the distance moved by the load – you don’t have to pull as hard but you have to pull a lot farther Friction in the line will reduce the actual mechanical advantage that you are seeking See examples of mechanical advantages achieved 1:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs 2:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs 3:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs 4:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs 5:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs 1:1 2:1 3:1 4:1 5:1

Seamanship End Marlinespike