Fundamentals of Aromatherapy & Skin Care Fundamentals of Aromatherapy & Skin Care Shakti Vinay Shukla Fragrance & Flavour Development Centre, Kannauj

Aromatherapy Aromatherapy  Cure with aroma.  The art-and science of using plant oil for treatment.  Wholistic therapy, taking into account of the mind, body and spirit of the person.

Modes of Action of Aromatherapy PPharmacological PPhysiological PPsychological

Evolution of Aromatherapy Dr. Rene Maurice Gatteffosse 1937 Dr. Jean Valnet 1964 Concept of Conventional Medicine Psychological & Neurological Effects Wholistic Approach

Evolution of Aromatherapy Paul Belaiche 1979 Medical application of essential oils Pierre Franchomme Daniel Penoel 1990 L’Aromatherapie Exactment Modern science+ wholistic orientation Robert Tisserand 1977 Aromatherapy Massage Paul Jellinek 1973 Psychological Basis Perfumery Aroma Lamp 1980 Warwick Conference 1987&1991 J.S.Jellinek

Do have specific effect But in combination they behave Synergistically

Rates of Absorption of Essential oil through Skin Essential oil Absorption time Turpentine20 minutes Eucalyptus & Thyme20 – 40 minutes Anise, Bergamot & Lemon 40 – 60 minutes Citronella, Pine, Lavender & Geranium60 – 80 minutes Coriander & Peppermint100– 120 minutes

Methodology of Action of Essential Oil Through Human body Blood & Cortex Gas Chromatography – Spectroscopic Method (Parts per billion level) Inhalation & Massage

Medical Aromatherapy Cosmetic Aromatherapy AromachologySimple Aromatherapy Aromatherapy Massage

Aroma bearing Herbs for Cosmetic Use S. N. Aroma bearing HerbPart UsedMain Constituent Uses 1.Curcuma longa (Haldi)Rhizome  - Turmerone Curcumin Acne, Improves luster & Complexion, Deodorant. 2.Nardostachys jatamansi (Jatamansi) Rhizome & root JatamansoneHair growth, Deodorant, Improves complexion 3.Allium Sativum (Lasan)Bulb Diallyl disulfidePimple, Itching, Black spot. 4.Acorus calamus (Bach)Rhizome Asarone,Calamenol. Calamene Acne, Blemishes 5.Curcuma amada (Amahaldi) Rhizome 1-α & 1- β Curcumene, d-Camphor, d-Camphene Itching, Rashes, Acne, Soothening of skin 6.Santalum album (Chandan) Heart wood  -Santalol  -Santalol Deodorant, Darkness Blemishes, Improves complexion. 7.Coriander sativum (Dhania) Fruits Corianderol,  &  Pinene Terpinolene Itching, Redness, Acne, Mouth deodorant, Anti oxidant.

8.Myristica fragrans (Jayaphala) Seeds & crustPinene, Myristicin Dipentene Aphrodisiac, Teeth cleaning, Mouth deodorant, Complexion promotion 9.Crocus sativus (Kesar)Dried Stigma & tops of styles of flowers SafranalMouth deodorant Dispigmentation of skin, Pimple 10.Saussurea lappa (Kootha) RootsDihydrocostus lactone, Dispigmentation of skin, Tootache, 11.Lawsonia inermis (Mehndi) LeavesGrowth & darkening of hair, prickly heat, Natural colouring agent. 12.Trigonella foenum (Methi) Seeds & leaves Dihydrobenzofuran Hexanol Pimple, Black head, Wrinkles, Silky & lustrous hair, Anti- dandruff, Deodorant. 13.Cyperus rotundas (Morehi-jhar) Bulbous rootCyperol, Cyperene,  -Cyperone Itching, Redness, Deodorant, Complexion promoter 14.Citrus acida (Kagji nimbu) FruitLimonene, CitralItching, Skin irritation, Wrinkle,Hair conditioner, Skin sootheness, Oily skin. 15.Rosa damascena (Gulab)FlowersCitronellol, Geraniol, Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Skin glow, Deodorant, Blemishes, Dark patches.

16.Vetiveria zizanioides (Khus) RootVetiverol Vetiveryl Acetate Complexion promoter, Prickly heat, Deodorant 17.Mimosa elengi (Maulshri) Flower-Teeth cleaning & Gum strengthening. 18.Eletaria cardamomum (Chhoti Elaichi) SeedEucalyptol Terpenyl Acetate Mouth deodorant & freshner, Itchining, Pimple, Tooth-ache 19.Acacia farneciana (Khaira) Leaves, Pods & Skin -Mouth deodorant, gum strengthening 20.Cinnamomum Compohora (Kapur) ResinCamphorHeadache, Toothache, Spots, Inflammation 21Hibischus abelmoschus (Muskdana) SeedAmbrettolide, Farnesol Mouth deodorant, Aphrodisiac 22.Syzygium aromaticum (Launga) BudsEugenolMouth deodorant, Toothache, Headache 23.Hedychium spicatum (Kapoor kachri) RhizomesEthyl cinnamate, Ethyl ester of p- methoxy Cinnamic acid Hair growth, Teeth cleaning, Mouth deodorant. 24.Cinnamomum zeylaniccum (Dalchini) Inner bark of shoot & branches Cinnnamic aldehyde,Eugenol, Benzaldehyde Tooth & Gum care Lice, Nervous exhaustation. 25.Jasmine officinale (Bela)FlowerBenzyl Acetate Benzyl Alcohol Aphrodisiac, Dry & sensitive skin, stress related condition.

Essential Oil DrySkin Sensitive Skin Oily SkinElasticityWrinklesAcne Bergamot x Cedarwood xx Clary Sage xxx Cypress xx Frankincense xxx Geranium xxxxxx Helichyrsum xx Jasmine xx Lavender xxxxxx Lemon xxxx Essential Oils in Skin Care

Essential Oil DrySkin Sensitive Skin Oily SkinElasticityWrinklesAcne Lemongrass xx Myrrh xxx Orange xxx Patchouli xxxx Peppermint x Roman Chamomile xxx Rose xx Rosewood xx Rosemary xxx Sandalwood xxx Essential Oils in Skin Care

DOSE LEVEL OF AROMATHERPAY OIL  GENERAL DOSE LEVEL 2.5%  MUSCULAR PAIN/RHEUMATISM3.0%  DEPRESSION/STRESS %  FACIAL LOTION0.5-1%  BABIES & PREGANT WOMAN 0.5%

CHEMISTRY OF CARRIER OILS H 2 C OOCR 1 H C OOCR 2 H 2 C OOCR 3 Mol. Wt. 41 Mol. Wt THEY ARE TRYGLYCERIDES ESTERS OF LONG CHAIN FREE FATTY ACIDS

SOME IMPORTANT CARRIER OILS  ALMOND OIL (Prunus amygdalus) Myristic (1%), Palmitic (4.5%), Oleic (77%), Linoleic (17%)  APRICOT OIL (Prunus armeniaca) Saturated fatty acid (3.6%), Oleic (61%), Linoleic (30%)  GRAPE SEED OIL (Vitis vinifera) Saturated fatty acid, (8-16%) Un-Saturated fatty acid (85-90%), Palmitic (4-11%), Stearic (2.5-5%), Archidic (Traces), Oleic (12-33%), Linoleic (45-72 %), Linolenic (0.2%)  OLIVE OIL (Olea Europa) Myristic ( %), Palmitic (7-16%), Stearic(1- 3%), Arachidic ( %), Oleic (65-85%) Linoleic (4-15%)

SOME IMPORTANT CARRIER OILS  SESAME OIL (Sesamum indicum) Myristic (Traces), Palmitic (7-9%), Stearic(4-5%), Arachidic ( %), Oleic (37-49%) Linoleic (35- 47%)  WHEAT GERM OIL (Triticum) Palmitic (11-16%), Stearic(1-6%), C-20-C22 saturated (0-1%), Oleic (8-30%), Linoleic (44-65%), Linolenic (4-10%)  COCONUT OIL (Cocos nucifera) Caproic (0-.8%), Caprylic(5-9%), Capric (6-10%), Lauric (44-52% ), Myristic (13-19%), Palmitic (8- 11%), Stearic (1-3%), Arachidic (0-.4%), Oleic (5- 8%), Palmitoleic (1%) Linoleic (Trace)

ESSENTIAL OILS FOR COMMON PROBLEMS  SANDAL WOOD OIL (Santalum album linn) ACTION : Antidepressant, Antiseptic, Aphrodisiac Sedative USES : Skin care (Acne, dry, cracked & chopped skin), depression, nervous tension & stress related complaints  CLOVE BUD (Szygium aromaticum) ACTION : Antioxidant, Antiseptic, Antibiotic, Antirheumatic USES : Skin (Acne, cuts, burns), Arthritis, sprains, rheumatism, insect repellant  CITRONELLA OIL (Cymbopogan nardus) ACTION : Antiseptic, deodorant, fungicidal, diuretic USES : Skin care (oily skin), depression, headache, migraine, insect repellent.

ESSENTIAL OILS FOR COMMON PROBLEMS  PALMAROSA OIL (Cymbopogan martini) ACTION : Antiseptic, bactericidal USES : Skin care (Acne, dermatitis, scars, wrinkles, moisturizes the skin, stimulate cellular regeneration)  LEMONGRASS OIL (Cymbopogan citratus) ACTION : Analgesic, Antidepressant, Antiseptic, Antimicrobial, bactericidal USES : Skin care (Acne, Athlete’s foot), muscular pain, headache, stress related conditions, insect repellent (fleas, lice ticks).  JASMINE (Jasminum officinale) ACTION : Analgesic (mild), Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, Sedative USES : Skin (Dry, greasy sensitive skin), Labour pain, depression, stress related condition

Storage of Essential Oil  Oxiadtion  Resinification  Polymerisation  Hydrolysis of Ester  Interaction of Function Group Air (Oxygen) Light HeatMoisture Reactions Responsible for Deterioration

High terpene Essential Oils High terpene Essential Oils Citrus,Pine,Tagetus, Turpentine Prone to Oxidation & Resinification Essential oil with High Acids Reduced aldehyde contents High Ester Essential Oils Lavender & Bergamot High Aldehyde Essential Oils Lemongrass

Storage of Essential Oil  Smaller sample  Bulk How to remove moisture, metal ?  Anhydrous sodium Sulphate  Rectification  Centrifuging at high speed rpm more than 15,000  Metallic Impurities in Clove, Bay  Treat with Tartaric acid & filter

Long Shelf Life of Essential Oil  Storage in Cool Place  Storage in Dry Environment  Protection from Sunlight  Removal of Air  Removal Of Moisture  Removal Of Impurities

What is Cosmetic Aromatherapy? Use of Natural Essential Oil for Cosmetic. Advantages of Using Natural Essential Oil Over Herb. Topic includes

Cosmetic Aromatherapy It is any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or spray on or introduced into, or otherwise applied to human body or any part thereof for cleaning, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance.

Aims of cosmetic aromatherapy Rejuvenate and beautify the body through the use of aromatic oils. Improve the outward appearance i.e. beauty complexion. To treat the specific skin condition.

Essential oils for beauty The ancient Egyptian were renowned for their expertise in using the aromatic essence and herbs in this field. Recent research has also confirmed that Essential oils like Rose, Neroli, Lavender, frankincense etc can indeed stimulate cellular granulation,which is the first stage of healing after an injury, and keep the skin looking beautiful.

Essential oils for skin Sandal wood oil Palmarosa oil Bergamot oil ( bergaptene free) Myrrh and Frankincense

Increased Self Life of Cosmetic Product. Better Appearance & Acceptance of Product. Consistency in the Quality. Ease in Quality Control. Ease in Production. Ease in Storage & Transport. Ease in Identification. Advantages of Using Natural Essential Oil Over Herb