Part 2: Textile/Apparel Building Blocks Chapter 7 Textile Fabrics and Finishes

Objectives Identify most common fabric constructions Describe main fabric finishing procedures Recognize importance of quality and performance standards Summarize important aspects of the textile industry Explain how finished fabrics are sold down the chain Cite textile industry trade information Tell about future predictions for textiles

Fabric Design and Construction Two forms of design   Structural Design   “Building in” texture or interest during manufacturing process   Weaving and knitting most common   Applied Design   Adding color, pattern, or other features to the structural design   Printing on fabric

Fabric Construction Methods Weaving  Plain: crosshatch pattern  Twill: diagonal wale  Satin: floating yarns Knitting  Weft  Warp Nonwoven  Fused  Felted  Films

Fabric Terms Grain – direction yarns run in the fabric   Lengthwise - warp   Crosswise - weft   Diagonal - bias Selvage   “Finished” weft edge of fabric SELVAGE BIAS WARP WEFT CUT EDGE

Variations of Weaves Stripes Checks Plaids Jacquard Pile fabrics  Terry cloth  Corduroy  Velvet

Knitting Looping yarn together Made using one yarn   Built-in stretch   Wrinkle resistant   Does not ravel like wovens, but may run Weft (filling) stretches in both directions Warp stretches one direction; run-proof

Nonwoven Fabrics Compact web of fibers (not yarns) constructed using  Moisture  Heat  Chemicals  Friction  Pressure No grain

Other Construction Methods Laces and Nets   Made by knotting   Decorative trim Braids   Decorative trims Bonded fabrics Fusible web   Interfacing and hem tape Quilted fabrics

Fabric Finishing Converters  Mills that change greige goods into finished fabrics Applying colors, designs, or surface treatments  Bleaching  Dyeing  Printing  Finishes

Dyeing Fiber   Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns Yarn   Placing yarns in dye bath before making into fabric Piece   Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting Garment   Dyed after construction

Printing Adding color, pattern, or design to surface of fabric Overall prints  Same across fabric Directional prints  Specific direction to pattern Plaids  Even - same in warp and weft  Uneven - different in warp or weft

Printing Methods Roller   Applies color design by roller Screen   Similar to stenciling Rotary Screen   Applies color design by cylinder- shaped nylon screens Heat Transfer  Design on printed paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure Digital  Computer method uses ink-jet printing Flocking  Fibers attached by patterned glue

Fabric Finishes Mechanical finishes affect size and appearance   By heat, moisture, stretching, singeing   Example: preshrinking Chemical finishes affect performance   Permanent press   Waterproof or water repellent   Flame resistant   Antistatic   Stain and soil resistant   Release substances such as antibiotics or insect repellants

Standards Quality   Rate textiles according to levels of defects Performance   Rate textiles for specific end-use suitability Six Sigma   Measure and improve company’s statistical analysis to increase profits

The Textile Industry Specialized companies perform stages of the textile segment of the chain Technology necessary  CAD/CAM Fashion  Tracking designs, trends, forecasts Marketing  Planning, pricing, promoting, distributing

Selling Finished Fabrics Staple fabrics   Sold each year with little or no change in construction Novelty fabrics   Fashion fabrics that change with style trends Overruns   When a mill makes more fabric than was ordered by customers

Trade Information National Textile Association  Includes weavers, knitters, fabric-making companies, and firms that dye, print, and finish fabrics American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)  Wet processing aspects

Future of Textiles Continued U.S. innovation Stay globally competitive   Fully automate plants   Use computerized methods to fill small orders for unique products Increased knit production Textile firms need more sophisticated marketing techniques

Do You Know... Colorfast means a fabric's color will not change with time, use, or cleaning. Hand is the term used for textiles that refers to the way fabrics feel to the touch. Hand may apply to drape, softness, firmness, crispness, or elasticity.