TRICHOLOGY Copyright 2013 © SAP

TRICHOLOGY The scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care Hair is part of integument. Healthy hair requires a healthy diet. Proper nutrients are required for healthy hair. Body can synthesize 11 of the 20 amino acids that make up hair. Sources of amino acids include a. proteins. b. peanut butter. c. rice. d. beans. e. corn.

HAIR Structure of Hair Root Follicle Hair bulb Dermal papilla Arrector pili Sebaceous glands

HAIR Structure of Hair Shaft Cuticle Cortex Medulla

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR Keratinization 91% Protein Long chains of amino acids COHNS Elements Carbon—51% Oxygen—21% Hydrogen—6% Nitrogen—17% Sulfur—5%

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR Amino Acids Linked like pop beads Peptide (or end) bonds Polypeptide chain

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR Side Bonds of Cortex Hydrogen bonds Salt bonds Disulfide bonds

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR Hair Pigment Melanin Natural hair color Haircolor versus Hair Color Wave Pattern and Tendencies Straight hair Wavy hair Extremely curly hair Asian Caucasian African American

HAIR ANALYSIS Hair Texture Hair Density Coarse Medium Fine Low High Average (2,200 hairs per in.2) Blonde (140,000) Brown (110,000) Black (108,000) Red (80,000)

HAIR ANALYSIS Porosity Low Average High Elasticity Normal

HAIR ANALYSIS Growth Patterns Dry Hair and Scalp Oily Hair and Scalp Hair stream Whorl Cowlick Dry Hair and Scalp Appears dull, dry, and lifeless No frequent shampooing Oily Hair and Scalp Clarifying shampoos Well-balanced diet Exercise Regular, frequent shampooing

HAIR GROWTH Types of Hair Vellus or lanugo Terminal hair Growth Cycles of Hair Anagen Catagen Telogen

ANAGEN GROWING PHASE—Average growth about 1/2” per month 90% of scalp hair grow at the same time Growth period of three to five years; as long as ten years in some cases Duration of hair life affected by gender, age, type of hair, heredity, nutrition, and health

CATAGEN Transitional phase. Follicle canal shrinks, detaches from the papilla. The lower part of follicle is destroyed. End of the growth phase; lasts only one to two weeks. Less than 1% of scalp hair is in this phase at any one time.

TELOGEN Resting stage. After catagen, follicle begins a 3- to 6-month phase of resting. Follicle is shorter, about 1/2 to 1/3 the length of active follicles. Only 10% of hair is in telogen phase at one time. After telogen, the cycle begins again.

HAIR GROWTH Hair Growth Myths Clipping, shaving, trimming, and cutting makes hair grow faster. Scalp massage increases hair growth. Gray hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair. Amount of natural curl is determined by racial background. Hair with round cross-section is straight, hair with oval cross-section is wavy, hair with flat cross-section is curly.

HAIR GROWTH Hair Growth Facts Shaving or cutting the hair has no effect on hair growth. Stimulation or scalp massage does not increase hair growth. Other than the lack of pigment, gray hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair. Anyone of any race can have hair from straight to extremely curly. Cross-sections of hair can be almost any shape, and the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl of the hair.

HAIR LOSS Men with severe hair loss Women with hair loss experience negative social and emotional effects. are more preoccupied with their baldness. make efforts to conceal or compensate for hair loss. Women with hair loss usually devastated. feel anxious, helpless, less attractive.

HAIR LOSS Androgenetic alopecia Alopecia areata affects 40 million U.S. men. affects 20 million U.S. women. Alopecia areata Immune system attacks hair follicles. It begins with one or two small, bald patches. It occurs in males and females of all ages. Scalp shows no sign of inflammation.

HAIR LOSS Postpartum alopecia Hair Loss Treatments Temporary hair loss at conclusion of pregnancy Hair Loss Treatments Minoxidil®—topical medication applied to scalp Finasteride®—oral prescription for men only

DISORDERS OF THE HAIR Canities (kah-NISH-ee-eez) Ringed Hair Congenital canities Acquired canities Ringed Hair Alternate bands of gray and dark hair Hypertrichosis Also known as hirsuties, means superfluous hair Fragilitas Crinium Brittle hair that causes splitting

TRICHOPTILOSIS Split hair ends Treatment—oil to lubricate and soften ends, or cutting the hair

TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA Knotted hair Dry, brittle Nodular swellings along hair shaft Hair easily broken, creating a brush-like spreading of fibers along the hair shaft Treatment—softening the hair with conditioners

MONILETHRIX Beaded hair Hair easily broken between the beads Treatment—scalp and hair treatments may improve hair condition

DISORDERS OF THE SCALP Dandruff Pityriasis capitis simplex Pityriasis steatoides Both contagious Vegetable Parasitic Infections Tinea Tinea capitis Tinea favosa

VEGETABLE PARASITIC INFECTIONS Tinea capitis—ringworm of the scalp Characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicles Causes the hair to break

DISORDERS OF THE SCALP Animal parasitic infections Scabies; caused by the itch mite Pediculosis capitis Staphylococci infections Furuncle or boil Carbuncle

ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS Pediculosis capitis (head lice) Contagious Infest the hair and scalp Itching occurs Scratching can cause infection Head lice do not jump or fly but run very quickly

ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS Nits Tiny, yellow-white eggs of lice Become attached to the hair and difficult to remove

STAPHYLOCOCCI PARASITIC INFECTIONS Furuncle—a boil Infection of a hair follicle Constant pain; pustule is perforated by a hair Carbuncle Inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue Larger than a furuncle

SUMMARY Trichology is the science that deals with the hair, its diseases, and care. The more you understand how salon services affect different hair types, the better you will be able to achieve consistent results on your client. Recognizing scalp and hair disorders will help you direct your client appropriately.