Wave action and coastal landforms

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Presentation transcript:

Wave action and coastal landforms PART TWO!

Yesterday, we learned about… Waves  friction Wave length, height, crest, trough Wave action: constructive and destructive Swash and backwash Longshore drift Wave refraction

Coastline Erosion Four types: 1) Corrosion 2) Corrasion/ Abrasion 3) Attrition 4) Hydraulic action

Corrosion (also sometimes called solution) A type of chemical weathering where material is dissolved by seawater There are weak acids in the sea which wear rock down (especially some types of rock such as chalk or limestone) http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/geography/coastal/coastalprocessesrev3.shtml

Corrasion/ Abrasion Scouring of the rock Sand and rock particles in waves wear down rock surfaces (usually at the base of a cliff) Leaves rock very smooth Like sandpaper http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/geography/coastal/coastalprocessesrev3.shtml

Attrition Rock particles in suspension erode each other Rock hits rock  particles break down Hitting each other and getting smaller in size http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/geography/coastal/coastalprocessesrev3.shtml

Hydraulic Action When waves hit the base of a cliff, air is compressed into cracks. When the wave retreats the air rushes out of the gap  cliff material breaks away. Basically, water and air are compressed into rock fractures  water and air in and out of the rock breaks it apart http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/geography/coastal/coastalprocessesrev3.shtml

Undercutting (52-53) Rock eroded and removed at the base of a cliff Creates a very steep, vertical cliff

Cliff erosion features Caves Bays Headlands Tunnels Arches Stacks Wave-cut platforms

Caves, Bays, Headlands CAVES: Indentation in the weakest rock surface of cliff caused by wave refraction and hydraulic action BAYS: soft rock wears away faster  bay between headlands HEADLANDS: Hard rock more resistant to erosion  erodes into jagged shape that juts out from land

Erosion of cliffs caves  bays and headlands  caves tunnels  arch  stack  wave-cut platform Arch: hole in headland caused by wave refraction Stack: isolated rock pillar after arch caves Wave-cut platform: undercutting creates a rock debris platform in water http://www.geography.learnontheinternet.co.uk/topics/coasts_erosional_landforms.html#baysandheadlands

Shoreline depositional features Spits Tombolos

Spit  Long ridge of sand created by longshore drift Linear accumulation of sediment attached to land at one end. Spits are typically elongate, narrow features built to several dozen feet by wind and waves. Where there is an obstruction or the power of the waves is reduced the material is deposited. The sediment which is deposited usually builds up over the years to form a long ridge of material

Tombolo When sand spit grows long enough that it joins an island to the mainland

Types of coasts (54) Ria: lower part of V-shaped valley flooded with water  A drowned river valley that remains open to the sea Fjord: Lower part of U0shaped valley flooded with water Estuary: lower part of a river valley filled with sediment and submerged by the sea depending on the tides; mix of salt and fresh water; funnel shape with gently sloping sides

Ria

Coastal Protection 1) Sea wall: man-made wall to prevent wave erosion 2) Groynes: artificial barriers built into ocean to stop movement of sand by longshore drift