© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Waves and Water Dynamics Chapter 1 Clickers Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter 8 Lecture

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter Overview Most waves are wind-driven. Most waves are generated by storms. Waves transmit energy across the ocean surface. Deep water and surf zone waves have different characteristics. Tsunami are special fast, long waves generated by seismic events.

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Wave Generation Disturbing force causes waves to form Wind blowing across ocean surface Interface of fluids with different densities Air – ocean interface =Ocean waves Air – air interface =Atmospheric waves Water – water interface =Internal waves

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Types of Waves

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Internal Waves Associated with pycnocline Larger than surface waves Caused by tides, turbidity currents, winds, ships Possible hazard for submarines

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Wave Movement Waves transmit energy Cyclic motion of particles in ocean Particles may move Up and down Back and forth Around and around

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Progressive Waves Progressive waves oscillate uniformly and progress without breaking Longitudinal Transverse Orbital

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Longitudinal Waves Also called push-pull waves Compress and decompress as they travel, like a coiled spring….. Think slinky

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Transverse Waves Also called side-to-side waves Energy travels at right angles to direction of moving particles. Generally only transmit through solids, not liquids

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Orbital Waves Also called interface waves Waves on ocean surface

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Wave Terminology CrestTrough Still water level = Zero Energy Level Wave Height (H)

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Orbital Wave Characteristics Wave Steepness = wave height wavelength If wave steepness > 1 / 7, wave breaks Wave Period (T) = time for one wavelength to pass fixed point Wave Frequency = inverse of Wave Period or 1/T

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Orbital Wave Characteristics Diameter of orbital motion decreases with depth of water. Wave Base = ½ wavelength (L) Hardly any motion below wave base due to wave activity

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Circular Orbital Motion Wave particles move in a circle. Waveform travels forward. Wave energy advances.

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Science of Waves at Mavericks of-ocean-waves-and-surfing/ of-ocean-waves-and-surfing/ The Biggest Waves Big Wave Surfing famous surfer Laird Hamilton Feet - YouTube

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. What is a Limerick? A limerick is a funny little poem containing five lines. It has a very distinctive rhythm and rhyme pattern.

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. What is a Limerick? Rhyme Pattern: The last words of the first, second, and fifth lines all rhyme with each other. We’ll call those rhyming words “A”. The last words of the third and fourth lines rhyme with each other. We’ll call those rhyming words “B”.

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. What is a Limerick? Rhythm Pattern: The first, second, and fifth lines all have this rhythm pattern: da DUM da da DUM da da DUM (notice there are 3 DUMS or beats). The third and fourth lines have a different rhythm pattern: da DUM da da DUM (notice there are 2 DUMS or beats).

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. 1. There was an old man from Peru, (A) da DUM da da DUM da da DUM (3 DUMS) 2. who dreamed he was eating his shoe. (A) da DUM da da DUM da da DUM (3 DUMS) 3. He awoke in the night (B) da DUM da da DUM (2 DUMS) 4. with a terrible fright, (B) da da DUM da da DUM (2 DUMS) 5. and found out that it was quite true. (A) da DUM da da DUM da da DUM (3 DUMS)

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. Student Output Create a limerick using at least 5 of the following words: WindDisturbing Internal Waves Surface Turbidity OrbitalCrest TroughMotion wavelength Show this example: watch?v=k-rN3DGMCsE