HAIRSTYLING THE CLIENT WILL OFTEN JUDGE YOUR WORK BY THE FINISHED STYLE CLIENT CONSULTATION 1ST STEP TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION ALL YOU LEARNED IN CHAPTER 14: FACE SHAPE, HAIR TYPE AND LIFESTYLE

FINGERWAVING ALL THE RAGE IN 20’S FINGERWAVING- ART OF SHAPING HAIR USING FINGERS, COMBS, IN TO AN “S” PATTERN

FINGER-WAVING LOTION TYPE OF HAIR GEL OR LOTION THAT MAKES HAIR PLIABLE TO KEEP IT IN PLACE MADE FROM KARAYA GUM DILUTE FOR FINE HAIR GOOD LOTION DOES NOT FLAKE WHEN DRY APPLY: HEAVY SIDE FIRST

WAVES ARE CREATED: HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL AND DIAGONAL HORIZONTAL-sideways and parallel VERTICAL- up and down the head DIAGONAL- slight angle

Pin Curls Pin curls are basis for patterns, lines, waves: wide range of hairstyles Work best when hair is layered Smooth tightly wound ribboning Alternative to wrapping

Parts of a Pin Curl Base – stationary foundation of the curl; area closest to scalp stem-sec. between base and first arc; gives curl direction and movement Circle-forms the complete circle; determines width and strength/wave

Mobility of a Pin Curl Stem determines mobility or movement Classified as no stem, half stem, full stem

No Stem Pin Curl Placed directly on its base:minimum mobility Produces tight firm, long lasting curl

Half Stem Pin Curl The circle is placed half on and half off its base Permits movement; gives good control to hair This square base is half stem curl circle ½ base Stem

Full Stem Curl Allows for greatest mobility Curl placed completely off base Full freedom or mobility; used to give hair direction Curl sits completely Off its base

????????????????????????????? The first step in the hairstyling process should be? What is shaping the hair into S formations used for? How would you create a horizontal finger wave?

Answers Client consultation Finger Waving Parallel ridges around the head Describe the type of pin curl that give firm long lasting curls No stem pin curl

Shaping for Pin Curl Bases SHAPING-section of hair molded in a circ. Movement in preparation for the formation of Pin Curls Shaping are open or closed Begin pin curls at the open end (convex side

Open Center Curls

Open Center Pincurls open center curls produce smooth even waves

Closed Center Pincurls Get small towards ends Closed center good for fine hair If fluffy comb out is desired Width of the curl determines size of the wave

Curl and Stem Direction Curls FORWARD Curls turned toward face Reverse –away from face Stems Downward stem Stems can go up or down Clockwise with hand of clock Counter clockwise

Pin Curl Bases and Foundations Square Base- curly styles: no vol. Rectangle- upsweep effect usually on side area Arc-half moon or C shape:nape area Triangle –front facial- prevents splits or breaks

Pin Curl Technique Ribboning- forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb Creates tension

Carved or Sculptured Curls Pin Curls sliced from a shaping Formed without lifting the hair Using tail comb gingerly pick up piece of hair, ribbon it, and form a curl

Designing with Pin Curls Skip waves – alternating ridges and curls Ridge Curls- curls placed behind a ridge

Cascade or Stand-Up Pin Curls Can use any base Good for height or volume The size of curl determines height Stand Up Pin Curls

Double Prong Only yes No

Stem Mobility Full stem curl No stem curl Half stem curl

Roller Curls Used to create the same effect as stand-up pin curls However, have the some advantages over pin curls: Faster way to set the hair, holds 2-4 stand-up curls in 1 roller Hair is wrapped with tension Gives a stronger and longer lasting set Rollers come in variety of shapes & sizes Gives more creative possibilities

Parts of a Roller Curl The Base The Stem The Curl The part on which roller is placed The Stem Hair between the scalp and 1st turn of the roller Gives the hair direction and mobility The Curl Also known as the circle The hair that is wrapped around the roller Determines the size of the wave or curl

Choosing Your Roller Size The relationship b/t the length of hair and the size of the roller will determine whether the result will be A C-shape A Wave A Curl Roller Size + Length of Hair = Curl Result

One complete turn around the roller C-Shaped Curl One complete turn around the roller

1 and ½ turns creates a wave

Two and a half turns will create curls Full Curl Two and a half turns will create curls

Roller Placement On Base Also known as full base Gives full volume when sitting on base Achieved by: Overdirecting the hair ( higher than 90 degrees) in front of the base Roll the hair/roller down to base Roller should fit on the base

On-Base Roller: Full Volume

Roller Placement Half Base For medium volume Roller sits halfway on its base and halfway behind the base Achieved by: Holding the hand straight up (90 degrees) Roll the hair straight down

Roller Placement The least volume Roller sits completely off base Achieved by: Holding the strand 45 degrees down from the base Roll the hair down in same direction

Off-Base Roller

Roller Direction Start with the end in mind! Downward directional wrapping gives movement and style in all directions and still maintains volume To reduce volume: Bring movement closer to the head Use indentation curl placement The point where curls of opposite direction meet, forming a recessed area Seen in flip styles and bangs (fringes)

Hot Rollers Used ONLY on DRY hair Heated electrically or by steam Great time saver in the salon Follow same setting patterns Allow rollers to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes! Curl is weaker than wet set, but stronger than a curling iron

Velcro Rollers Are not allowed by the state board in some states because they are difficult to clean Used for clients that want more body than a round brush but less volume than a hot roller or wet set Used ONLY on DRY hair Using on wet hair will snag and pull the hair Need to stay on the hair for only 5 to 10 minutes Follow same setting patterns but no clips are needed Mist the entire head with hair spray, and then place client under hooded dryer This gives softer set to the hair

Hot Rollers

Velcro Rollers

Indentation

Comb-Out Techniques Became popular in the 50’s and 60’s Two Types Women liked that their sets would hold for a week Two Types Backcombing –or- teasing, ratting, matting, and French lacing Combing small sections of hair from the ends to the scalp Shorter hair will mat at the scalp forming a cushion or base Backbrushing –or- ruffing Used to build a soft cushion or to mesh 2 or more curl patterns together Gives a more uniform and smoother look