Fashion Design Segment

Before apparel manufacturing can take place, the fashion design process must occur.

Each design is created for a specific price range, design level, and target customer.

 Designer = Couture  Custom made  Bridge = “Secondary” lines of well known designers.  Sell for many hundred of dollars  The most expensive RTW produced Price Levels:

 Better = high quality at a reasonable price.  Designers are unnamed on the label  Moderate = medium priced  Well known names  Gap, Levis, Charlotte Russe, Forever 21  Budget = lowest price level  No original designing, made overseas in large numbers

 Collection vs. Line  A collection is everything a designer shows for a specific season.  A collection can have many lines.  A Line is a group of garments that work together.  For example sundresses could be a line, active wear could be a line, and both could be part of a collection for the spring or summer season.

Is the idea that in customers’ minds, the items stand out from others, usually because of image and quality. Designers want their logos recognized. Perceived Difference

The couture collections lose money, but the publicity from designers’ showings keeps their names famous and helps keep up demand for their RTW lines.

 Small retail shops owned by designers. House Boutiques

A legal agreement whereby manufacturers are granted the exclusive right to produce and market goods that bear the famous name of a designer. Licensing

 An arrangement in which a designer grants a retailer the right to use his or her famous name and trademarked goods within a particular trading area. Franchising

 Work on a new line begins 8 months before the selling season ( a velvet dress to be worn in Dec. must be designed in May)  Sportswear design begins a year in advance of selling season The Design Process

 Feb- research fabrics  March- work on merchandise plan & group concepts  April- select fabrics and prints; work on sweater samples and design bodies  May- make final selections Yet, spring line release (when samples are shown to retail buyers) isn’t until September 1. Same line will be in stores in late winter to be worn in spring.

 Women’s wear companies produce 4 or 5 seasonal lines a year; spring, summer, transitional, fall, and holiday or resort  Men’s sportswear firms also have 4 compared to men’s suits that have just 2!!  Children’s wear firms have 3 or 4 depending on the product focus.

 Groups: Collections are divided into groups of garments using a specific theme based on a fabric, color, or a particular fashion direction.  Styling within the group creates variety, yet carries out the central theme.

1.Dresses * Select an anchor (a bestseller from the previous line with a change of color and/or fabric) *Emphasize a variety of silhouettes (called bodies), sleeve treatments, necklines, and/or other details.

2. Suits and Outerwear *Men’s suits: prime factors in styling are fabric and silhouette; few changes from season to season *Women’s suits can be fashion oriented or classic; provide a wide variety of silhouettes, collar treatments, details and fabrics

3. Sportswear * Pieces designed to be worn together * Blended mix of pants, jackets, shirts, blouses, and tops with a variety of styling features * One garment ties all the group colors together!

 Every group must balance fashion and basics. * Fashion pieces give company credibility by showing retail buyers the company is aware of fashion trends * Basics are often what brings in the money to allow them to do the fashion.

 First sample garment is the test to see if the design will be successful! The First Pattern: * used to cut & sew the prototype * made in sample size * sample sizes are 7 or 9 for juniors, 8 or 10 for missy, 34 for men’s trousers, and 38 for men’s suits

 cut and shape muslin or garment fabric on a dress form  Ideal for soft, flowing designs  Used mainly for couture dresses and evening wear  Three-dimensional  Finally, redrawn on heavy paper Step 1: Create Pattern: Pattern-maker can use one of the following methods for making patterns: draping, flat pattern or computer- generated…

1.Basic shapes, such as bodices, sleeves, pants or skirts, are draped and drafted (blocking a set of prescribed measurements on paper) 2.These patterns (once tested for accuracy) become blocks or slopers that can be changed or adapted to each new style by moving darts or seams 3.The flat pattern method uses angles, rulers and curves to change existing board patterns

 Pattern maker manipulates small graphic patterns on computer screen with a handheld control device  Once finalized, pattern is laid out on the fabric, traced, and cut out by the assistant designer or sample cutter to be sewn into the first sample!

 Next step is to test sample for fit and total effect.  Ability to create a good fit is most important skill needed in the development of the garment  Must be fitted on a model to test comfort and east of movement

 Contains information that guides the production department in figuring out costs and in ordering piece goods (the factory term for fabrics) and trimmings.

 Designer develops many designs for each line, which are then edited to leave only successful combinations of fabric, style, and price!  May be a reassessment of the merchandise plan  Line presentation to sales force right before the scheduled line- release or collection-opening dates

 Line presentation cont. * consistent visual image created by a well-developed theme is a good selling tool on both wholesale or retail levels * visual impact makes it competitive once displayed in retail store  Duplicates: copies of the sample garments chosen for the line that are made to keep in the showroom

 Fashion is global with important fashion cities in many countries of the world.  New York, Paris, Milan, London, Tokyo, Hong Kong World Fashion Design Centers

 New York is the U.S. fashion capital.  Los Angeles is known for Junior sportswear and “Hollywood” eveningwear.  Dallas is known for dresses and moderately priced lines. Also, Western Wear. United States

 Miami: known for sun wear and kids designs.  The fashion press, movie stars, political figures, and international visitors help to support the fame of U.S. designers.

 Considered the world leader for creativity.  Couture fashion businesses are located in “fashion houses”, rather than commercial businesses.  Pret-a-porter: designer ready-to-wear. France

 Fashion leader in the design and manufacture of leather accessories.  Alta moda: high fashion design industry. Italy

 London is Britain’s fashion center.  Savile row: top quality menswear and elegant women’s apparel for royalty.  BFC – British fashion council  Known for tweeds, wools and cashmere. Great Britain

 Known for silks and original dress creations.  Low-wage contract manufacturing for U.S. and European RTW firms. China and Hong Kong