The Fashion Design Segment Chapter 9 part 2

Collection vs. Line Collection: A specific seasonal presentation. A line is a group of styles and designs that are produced and sold as a set of new selections for a given season.

Name Recognition Top designers have specific creative reputations and personal trademarks for which they are known. Perceived difference: the idea that, in a customer’s mind, the items stand out from the others, usually because of image and quality.

Logo A symbol that represents a person, firm, or organization.

Couture collections lose money, but the publicity from designers’ showings keep their names famous and help maintain the demand for other business opportunities.

Secondary Lines The “ultra-expensive” market for couture fashions has dwindled. Designer secondary lines have almost completely replaced custom-made fashions. This is the designer RTW Bridge segment.

House Boutiques Small retail shops owned by designers.

Licensing A legal arrangement whereby manufacturers are granted the exclusive right to produce and market goods that bear the famous name of a designer.

Franchising An arrangement in which a designer grants a retailer the right to use his or her famous name and trademarked goods within a particular trading area.

The Design Process Work on a new line begins 8 months before the selling season ( a velvet dress to be worn in Dec. Work on a new line begins 8 months before the selling season ( a velvet dress to be worn in Dec. must be designed in May) Sportswear design begins a year in advance of selling season

Feb- research fabrics March- work on merchandise plan & group concepts April- select fabrics and prints; work on sweater samples and design bodies May- make final selections Yet, spring line release (when samples are shown to retail buyers) isn’t until September 1. Same line will be in stores in late winter to be worn in spring.

Women’s wear companies produce 4 or 5 seasonal lines a year; spring, summer, transitional, fall, and holiday or resort Men’s sportswear firms also have 4 compared to men’s suits that have just 2!! Children’s wear firms have 3 or 4 depending on the product focus.

Groups: Collections are divided into groups of garments using a specific theme based on a fabric, color, or a particular fashion direction. Styling within the group creates variety, yet carries out the central theme.

1.Dresses * Select an anchor (a bestseller from the previous line with a change of color and/or fabric) *Emphasize a variety of silhouettes (called bodies), sleeve treatments, necklines, and/or other details.

2. Suits and Outerwear *Men’s suits: prime factors in styling are fabric and silhouette; few changes from season to season *Women’s suits can be fashion oriented or classic; provide a wide variety of silhouettes, collar treatments, details and fabrics

3. Sportswear * Pieces designed to be worn together * Blended mix of pants, jackets, shirts, blouses, and tops with a variety of styling features * One garment ties all the group colors together!

Every group must balance fashion and basics. * Fashion pieces give company credibility by showing retail buyers the company is aware of fashion trends * Basics are often what brings in the money to allow them to do the fashion.

First sample garment is the test to see if the design will be successful! The First Pattern: * used to cut & sew the prototype * made in sample size * sample sizes are 7 or 9 for juniors, 8 or 10 for missy, 34 for men’s trousers, and 38 for men’s suits

Step 1: Create Pattern: Pattern-maker can use one of the following methods for making patterns: draping, flat pattern or computer-generated… cut and shape muslin or garment fabric on a dress form Ideal for soft, flowing designs Used mainly for couture dresses and evening wear Three-dimensional Finally, redrawn on heavy paper

1.Basic shapes, such as bodices, sleeves, pants or skirts, are draped and drafted (blocking a set of prescribed measurements on paper) 2.These patterns (once tested for accuracy) become blocks or slopers that can be changed or adapted to each new style by moving darts or seams 3.The flat pattern method uses angles, rulers and curves to change existing board patterns

Pattern maker manipulates small graphic patterns on computer screen with a handheld control device Once finalized, pattern is laid out on the fabric, traced, and cut out by the assistant designer or sample cutter to be sewn into the first sample!

Made by a sample-maker, the best of the factory sewers Factory construction methods must be tested as the garment is sewn Many manufacturers have samples made abroad at same factory where production will be

Next step is to test sample for fit and total effect. Ability to create a good fit is most important skill needed in the development of the garment Must be fitted on a model to test comfort and east of movement

Contains information that guides the production department in figuring out costs and in ordering piece goods (the factory term for fabrics) and trimmings.

Designer develops many designs for each line, which are then edited to leave only successful combinations of fabric, style, and price! May be a reassessment of the merchandise plan Line presentation to sales force right before the scheduled line-release or collection-opening dates

Line presentation cont. * consistent visual image created by a well-developed theme is a good selling tool on both wholesale or retail levels * visual impact makes it competitive once displayed in retail store Duplicates: copies of the sample garments chosen for the line that are made to keep in the showroom

World Fashion Design Centers Fashion is global with important fashion cities in many countries of the world. –New York, Paris, Milan, London, Tokyo, Hong Kong

United States New York is the U.S. fashion capital. Los Angeles is known for Junior sportswear and “Hollywood” eveningwear. Dallas is known for dresses and moderately priced lines. Also, Western Wear.

Miami: known for sun wear and kids designs. The fashion press, movie stars, political figures, and international visitors help to support the fame of U.S. designers.

France Considered the world leader for creativity. Couture fashion businesses are located in “fashion houses”, rather than commercial businesses. Pret-a-porter: designer ready-to- wear.

Italy Fashion leader in the design and manufacture of leather accessories. Alta moda: high fashion design industry.

Great Britain London is Britain’s fashion center. Savile row: top quality menswear and elegant women’s apparel for royalty. BFC – British fashion council Known for tweeds, wools and cashmere.

China and Hong Kong Known for silks and original dress creations. Low-wage contract manufacturing for U.S. and European RTW firms.