1. Does Your Saddle Fit? Check your saddle without a numnah or saddle pad 1. Position: Place the saddle on your horses back and slide it back until it stops in its natural position. Do this 3 or 4 times until it stops in the same place each time. 2. Tree: The tree points should be running parallel to the horse’s shoulders. The saddle should be approx. 2 fingers (2") from the scapula (shoulder blade). 3. Seat: The deepest part of the seat should appear to be parallel to the ground. Place a pencil on the seat of the saddle, it should come to rest in the exact area that your seat bones should sit. The deepest point of the saddle should be in the middle of the seat. 4. Withers: I have always used the rule of three fingers clearance between the pommel of the saddle and the withers. Too little or too much space indicates a narrow tree. The saddle should never touch the withers or spine. Diagram: Dr. Nancy Nicholson, Biomechanical Riding & DressageBiomechanical Riding & Dressage

2. Does Your Saddle Fit? 5. Panels: Run your hand under the flap (knuckles towards the horse), back towards the stirrup bars. Is there room to slide your hand in? Or is it too tight? Run your flat hand under the panels (palm towards the horse). In the middle of the panels, is there enough room to put your whole hand in? If so, your saddle is 'bridging.' 6. Pommel/Cantle: Pressure test: If you are on the left side of the horse, place your left hand flat on the pommel and your right on the cantle. Gently, but deliberately, alternate your pressure from hand to hand and see if the saddle rocks. It shouldn't. 7. Length: The saddle should not extend past the last (18th) rib. In the loin area, there is no solid skeletal structure to properly support the saddle. This area is not designed to carry weight and is very sensitive. It will reduce the movement of the hindquarters and make it virtually impossible for the horse to lift his back and collect. Muscle atrophy from a badly fitting saddle. Correct fitting, plus two common problems Thermograph of a horse which has a badly fitting saddle

3. Does Your Saddle Fit? 8. Gullet: Check you can see daylight between the gullet of the saddle and the spine. A too narrow gullet is very painful for the horse since it presses on the spinous processes and nerves alongside the spine. A too wide gullet will sink in too deep next to the spinous processes. 9. Stuffing: Flip your saddle over and feel for lumps and bumps. They should not be too soft or hard and should follow the shape of your horses back. 10. Horse: This step applies constantly throughout the application of all the above steps. If the horse is pinning his ears back, trying to kick etc, he is trying to tell us that he’s uncomfortable. Keep this in mind if your horse tries to get away from you as you approach with your saddle. Horse owners should take these signs seriously and have their saddles checked. Look at your horse’s back without a saddle. Is the topline well muscled? If you see indentations behind the shoulder blade or along the topline it’s time to have your saddle fit evaluated. In checking saddle fit correctly, the saddle fitter should take wither and back tracings for later comparison. They should check the saddle in a static state following all the steps above. Most importantly, to insure a correct fit, the fitter should encourage the rider to be on and make a dynamic assessment. Gullet far too narrow How your saddle should fit your horse Badly fitting saddles cause huge amounts of damage to your horses back, these can easily be picked up during a massage and I am happy to assess the fit of your saddle during your appointment for no extra cost. Please feel free to call or message me any time for advice.