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Cutting With a Jeweler’s Saw. Pick up the following supplies: Saw Saw blades Block and clamp (also called a bench pin) Piece of scrap metal Wax (1 per.

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Presentation on theme: "Cutting With a Jeweler’s Saw. Pick up the following supplies: Saw Saw blades Block and clamp (also called a bench pin) Piece of scrap metal Wax (1 per."— Presentation transcript:

1 Cutting With a Jeweler’s Saw

2 Pick up the following supplies: Saw Saw blades Block and clamp (also called a bench pin) Piece of scrap metal Wax (1 per table)

3 Installing the Bench Pin Put the block to your right, with the V angled toward you. About half of the block should hang off the table edge. Clamp the block to the table. Put clamp on the far right outside. If you’re a lefty, reverse directions. Sit to the left of the bench pin.

4 Prepare the Saw When tightening thumb screws, be sure you tighten just enough to hold things in place. Over tightening can strip screws! Be sure top A and bottom C are fully closed. Loosen back B and slide saw so it is fully extended. A B C

5 Stringing the Saw Blade, step 1 Insert the saw blade all the way into top A and tighten. The teeth should be pointing down and away from the saw. The blade should be in front of the screw that holds the plates together. A

6 Stringing the Saw Blade, step 2 Adjust the back B so that the bottom of the blade will go about halfway into the bottom C. DO NOT TIGHTEN “C” AT THIS TIME! Tighten back B. C

7 Stringing the Saw Blade, step 3 Hold the top of the saw frame against the table. Push on the saw handle until the saw frame bends so much that the blade is touching the bottom C. While you are pushing on the frame, tighten bottom C. When you release pressure, your frame should stretch out and pull your blade tight.

8 Check Saw Blade Tightness Pluck the blade like a string. If you get a high- pitched plinking sound, you’ve strung it correctly. If you get a low sound or a rattle, it’s too loose and you need to start over from step #2.

9 Holding your metal securely Make a peace sign, and hold the metal down, keeping your fingers flat. Put the blade between the peace sign. On curves, turn the metal, not your saw. If you are uncomfortable on the stool, use a blue chair. Just put it back at the end of class.

10 Cutting Flatten your metal on the anvil with a rawhide mallet. Hold your metal over the V in your bench pin with your extra hand. Run your saw blade through the wax once. Saw through the metal. Reapply wax when your blade starts to squeak, rattle, grind, or get stuck.

11 How to Not Break your Blades Be sure the blade is tight and the metal is flat. Hold the metal very still. Cut slowly. Hold saw straight up and down. Don’t force the saw forward. Don’t try to cut too sharp a curve. Use long strokes, not short choppy ones. Use the entire length of the blade. Use wax. If you need to remove the blade, saw backwards to work it out (don’t pull straight backwards).

12 When you break a saw blade If it’s long enough, you can shorten your saw and reuse it. When you string your next blade, have a friend check to see that it’s tight enough. Read through the “How not to break your blades” section again. If you break three saw blades, string your saw one last time and call me over before you begin to cut.

13 Piercing Piercing means cutting out a shape from the inside of the metal. Dent and drill a hole in the piercing. String the saw, but slide the metal onto the saw blade before tightening bottom C. Metal will hang from saw blade. Cut from the inside of your shape.

14 Returning Your Saw Putting your saw frame away correctly prevents us from losing pieces and getting saws tangled up. Remove your saw blade (since you buy them). Tighten top A and bottom C. Loosen back B and slide saw frame as small as it goes. Tighten back B. Return your saw to the correct tote tray laid out in neat rows.


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