1. Fashion and Clothing
Objective 11 & 12

2. The Impact of Clothing
Chapter 56

3. A Personal Statement
The clothes you wear tell people something about you
It is a clue to your personality
Clothing reflects personal values
It can show pride in cultural heritage

4. Cont. Clothing can show how you feel about yourself and your world
Certain clothes reflect depression or show low self-esteem
Remember that clothing only tells a small portion of a person, don’t judge a person solely by what they wear

5. Social Aspects
In the mid 19th century, women were not allowed to wear pants
Clothing is a social symbol
Some places and events have dress codes (set of rules describing required or appropriate clothing)
May be written or have “unwritten rules”

6. Dress Codes Designed to promote a certain atmosphere
Some people dislike dress codes because it does not allow people to express individuality
Some dress codes are very loose and others are restrictive
The issue of a dress code will probably never be resolved

7. Peer Pressure Pressure from friends can act as an unwritten dress code
The pressure to conform to certain standards is very high among teens
Conformity can be healthy like wearing a team uniform but it can also be unhealthy
Buying clothes that are overpriced or not comfortable for your style or taste

8. Clothing and Relationships
As a teenager, you have a huge say in what you wear
Not always are your parents going to like it
Be flexible and compromise to help prevent fights

9. Dressing the Part
There are certain events that require a certain type of clothing
Some situations include:
Job interviews
Weddings and proms
Funerals
Religious services
Multicultural events

10. Cont. Dress for the climate outside Dress for safety
If it is hot, wear loose fitting clothing
If it is cold, cover your head and wear several layers
Dress for safety
Certain jobs require certain dress
Could include: safety goggles, steel-toed boots, bright colors, helmets, etc.

11. Fashion in Your Life Who decides what is fashionable?
What is the fashion industry? – all the companies involved in the design and manufacture of clothing
A designer is a person that creates clothing styles
When a designer’s work becomes popular, others will copy it
This is how trends start

12. Cont.
Even if you do not follow the latest trends, the fashion industry still affects you because you are limited to what they are producing
Designers play on people’s emotions by placing their labels in prominent positions
People buy clothing just because of the label
The fashion industry also decides what people should look like by the type of models they use

13. Wearing It Well
Clothing consciousness is important to a person’s personal satisfaction and success in certain situations
Understanding what influences your clothing choices helps you to make better ones

14. Clothing and the Consumer
Chapter

15. Where to Shop
The store you choose has an effect on the selection, quality, and cost of what you buy
There are several different places to buy clothes:
Department Store: slightly higher prices than other stores, divided into sections
Factory Outlets: run by the manufacturer; generally lower in price; fewer customer services; have high-quality clothes and “irregulars”

16. Cont.
Specialty Shops: sell only one type of clothing; prices tend to be higher
Mail-order Catalogs: convenient but may take awhile to get items; pay for shipping
Resale Shops: secondhand shops that sell items that look like new
Garage, Yard, and Rummage Sales: buy used items for not a lot of money

17. Cont. Flea Markets: low prices and a variety of quality
Art and Craft Fairs: have original, one-of-a-kind designs; expensive

18. When to Shop
Choosing when to shop is just as important as choosing where to shop
Clothes are marketed for different seasons
At the beginning of the season, the prices are at the highest
As the season progresses, prices go down

19. Cont. Sales are also a great time to buy
End-of-Season Sale: sale that is held to clear out merchandise to make room for the next season’s styles
Holiday Sales
Markdowns: reduced-priced items; the longer an item is in the store, the more the price goes down
Special Purchases: items that the store has bought for a lower than usual price

20. Sizing Things Up
In order to buy clothing, you have to know your size range – category you fit into
Female sizes: Junior sizes are all odd numbered (1,3,5,7,9,ect.) and are cut for trimmer, shorter-waisted figures; misses sizes are all even numbered (4,6,8,10, etc.) and are designed for a well-proportioned figure; petites are for women under 5ft. 4in.

21. Cont.
Male sizes: sold in two sizes-boy’s and men’s; pants sold by waist and inseam
Special sizes: clothes made to fit different body shapes like women’s, slim, husky, tall, and short

22. How To Find the Right Size
Sizes are based on measurements of typical bodies
Finding the right size is difficult
Most clothing is marked extra small, small, medium, large, and extra large
It is best to try clothing on before you buy it
If unsure of what size to buy, always buy the larger one

23. Avoiding Pitfalls
When shopping, look for clothes that won’t go out of style
These are called classics
Examples: blazers, pullover sweaters, and polo shirts
Some clothes are popular for short periods of time
These are called fads
Examples: short skirts, oversized sweatshirts, certain shoes

24. Cont. Most closets contain classics and fads
Study magazines to find out what is going to last and what is not
Styles with clean lines and solid colored tend to last longest

25. Taking Care of Clothing
Chapter 20-5

26. Situations to Respond To(Chap60)
1. I’ve decided to buy myself a new winter jacket. I’ve seen a beautiful leather jacket on sale for half the price in one store. I’ve also seen a washable cloth jacket I like in another store, but its price is higher. I think the leather coat is a better buy, since it costs less. My brother however, says it’s not. How can I decide which coat to buy?

27. Cont.
2. When I go to the supermarket, I see a whole aisle of detergents, bleaches, fabric softeners, and stain removers. Some are super strength, others are concentrated, and a few even dye free. How can I make a decision about which products to choose?

28. Reasons for Care Your clothing will last longer
Your clothing will look better
You will save money
You’ll have a selection of clothes to wear

29. General Care
Bathing daily and using deodorant helps keep garments fresh
Air clothing out
Inspect clothing
Set aside dirty clothes
Put away aired clothes – once clothes have dried, put them away

30. Seasonal Care
When seasons change, some people store their clothing until the next season
Stored clothing can become damaged by insects and strong light. To prevent this:
Clean clothes before storing
Prevent moth damage- like wool products
Prevent mildew- make sure completely dry and store in a dry place
Use clothing bags or boxes

31. Simple Repairs
Repairing snags – grasp snag from back with a crochet hook and pull it through the underside of garment
Mending seams – stitched by sewing machine or by hand
Patching holes – use iron-on patches or pieces of fabric (should be hand-sewn)
Replacing fasteners – buttons are most common

32. Cleaning Clothes
All clothes need to be cleaned, but they all have different methods
Always check the care label before washing
Follow directions to help make the clothes last

33. Removing Stains
Blood: soak in cold water and detergent; wash using bleach safe for fabric
Candle wax: scrape off wax, place between layers of paper towels with wax side down and press with iron to melt wax to towels; then wash
Chewing gum: harden by rubbing with ice; scrape off with dull knife; apply pre-wash, rinse, and wash

34. Cont.
Chocolate: soak in cold water; rub detergent onto the stain and wash
Cosmetics: pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover; rub detergent on stain and wash
Grease: sponge with cleaning fluid; rub detergent into stain and wash; use bleach if stain still exists

35. Cont. Ink: Sponge with rubbing alcohol or hair spray, rinse, and wash
Nail polish: never use nail polish remover; sponge with alcohol mixed with small drops of ammonia, rinse, and wash

36. Washing Clothes Cleaning Agents: used to remove soil
Two types: soap and detergent
Enzyme presoak solutions help remove egg, meat juices, and blood
Disinfectants kill bacteria
Water softeners soften hard water
Bleach removes tough stains and acts as a disinfectant
Fabric softeners decrease static electricity and makes fabrics feel softer

37. Washing Machines Used to clean a variety of clothes To use a machine:
1. select water temperature
2. add clothing and cleaning agent
3. adjust water level
4. select cycle
5. turn on the wash cycle

38. Sewing Equipment
Chapter 21

39. The Sewing Machine
The sewing machine is one of the most important pieces of sewing equipment
Joins pieces of fabric together with a lockstitch, a stitch that uses a thread above the fabric to join another thread (the bobbin thread) coming from below the fabric
A tension control devise helps keep the stitches even

40. Cont. Fabric is moved along with the feed dogs
The machine is controlled by foot and knee controls
A handwheel raises and lowers the needle as you begin and end stitching

41. Threading the Machine Every machine is threaded differently
They all have the same basic steps:
1. thread goes from spool to upper tension level
2. from upper tension level to take-up lever
3. from take-up lever down to needle

42. Cont. Thread guides keep the thread from tangling along the way
In order to thread the machine, a bobbin must be wound and inserted
A bobbin is a small spool that holds the bottom thread

43. Types of Stitches
Regular Stitch: medium-length stitch (10-12 stitches per in. or 3-5 per cm.) that can be used for most stitches
Basting Stitch: long stitch used for temporarily holding layers of fabric together and for gathering

44. Cont.
Reinforcement Stitch: short stitch used to strengthen a corner or a point
Zigzag Stitch: sideways stitch used to finish seam allowances, make buttonholes, and sew special seams
Specialty stitches are built into some machines
Used for hems, stitching stretch fabrics, and decorative stitching

45. Machine Needles Two types of needles: universal and ballpoint
Universal or general purpose needles have a sharp point for use with most fabrics
Ballpoint needles have rounded point and are used for knits
The lower the number on the needle, the finer the needle
If a needle becomes damaged, dull, or is rusty, replace right away

46. Caring for the Machine Requires regular maintenance and care
Clean it regularly with soft sewing machine brush
Keep lint away
Oil the machine occasionally with sewing machine oil

47. The Serger The serger is an overlocking sewing machine
It trims, sews, and overcasts in one step
Work twice as fast as a conventional sewing machine

48. Cont. Two basic stitches: overlock and overedge
Overlock stitch is used for seams
It locks the fabric layers together at the edge of the seam allowance, finishing the edges as it stitches the seam
Overedge stitch is used to finish edges of a single piece of fabric

49. Cont.
Used along with a sewing machine; not as a replacement for a conventional sewing machine
Can be used for all seams but not for buttonholes, straight-stitch application for a zipper, and topstitching detail

50. More differences from a Conventional Sewing Machine
Has more threads; can use up to 5 different threads
Loopers: do not have bobbins; loopers are parts that perform as bobbins do on a conventional sewing machine
Cutting knives: use two sharp blades to trim and smooth the fabric to the width of the stitch just before it goes under the needle

51. Cont.
Special Edge Finishes and Decorative Stitching: can do narrow rolled hems and produce blind hem and flatlock stitches
Special Threads: use special threads that are cross wound on cones for smoother feeding
Differential Feed: provides different speeds for feeding the upper and lower layers of fabric

52. Other Tools
Sewing projects not only require a sewing machine and serger, but also many other tools
These tools include: measuring, cutting, marking, pinning, hand stitching, and pressing tools

53. Measuring Tools
Tape Measure
Yardstick/meter stick
Ruler
Sewing gauge

54. Marking Equipment Tracing paper Tracing wheel Chalk
Liquid marking pens

55. Cutting Tools Pinking Shears Shears Scissors Seam ripper Rotary cutter
Cutting mat

56. Pressing and Sewing Equipment
Steam Iron
Ironing board
Press cloth
Tailor’s hem
Sleeve board

57. Other Small Sewing Equipment
Pins: hold pattern on fabric and hold fabric together
Needles
Pincushion: hold pins so that they can’t spill
Thimble

58. Using a Pattern
Chapter 21

59. Now that your sewing equipment is ready, it is time to prepare your pattern and fabric, lay out your pattern, cut it and mark the fabric.

60. Preparing the Pattern
To prepare the pattern, take out the pattern guide sheet
This gives step-by-step instructions for laying-out, cutting, marking, and sewing the item
Use this time to check measurements and to make simple adjustments to the pattern

61. Preparing the Fabric Check to see if the fabric needs to be preshrunk
Preshrink it if necessary by washing it
Find the fabric grain-direction the threads run; straighten if needed or hems will be uneven

62. Laying Out, Cutting, and Marking
When you are ready, the best place to work is in a well-lit room with a large, flat surface
The pattern layout is a diagram that shows how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric
Always layout your pieces before you pin and cut

63. Cont.
Pin any corners
Pin along the remaining edges, smoothing out the pattern as you go
Pins should not interfere with the cutting line
Once pins are in place, use sharp shears and cut along the cutting line
With your free hand, hold the fabric flat
Cut with the grain of the fabric
Do NOT lift the fabric up to cut it

64. Cont. Once the pattern is cut out, then mark it
Use the marking tool most suited for your fabric
Always test first with fabric scrap
Take your time with these steps
This will save you a lot of disappointment later!!

65. Basic Construction Fundamentals
Chapter 22

66. Construction Fundamentals
Once all of the pieces of fabric have been marked, it is time for unit construction
Unit construction is putting all of the pieces together in a specific order
When constructing a piece of clothing, the first thing to do is to find all of the curved pieces and do a stay stitch (prevents the curved seams from stretching)

67. Shaping to Fit the Body
Three different ways to get fabric to fit to the body: darts, tucks, and gathers
Darts are a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point; used to shape curved areas
Tucks are a fold of fabric stitched from top to bottom and used to shape a garment; used down the front of a shirt to give shape

68. Cont.
Gathers are small, soft folds of fabric created by sliding fabric along two parallel rows of machine basting

69. Assembling the Pieces Stitching seams
A standard seam is often called a plain seam and is usually 5/8 in. wide
To secure your seams, begin and end with a backstitch, sew in reverse using the reverse level on the machine

70. Cont.
Additional Seam Techniques help fabrics to lie flat and smooth, reducing bulk
Trimming: cutting the seam allowance in half
Grading: cut each layer of a seam allowance slightly narrower than the previous layer
Clipping: after trimming, clip seam allowances that curve inward
Notching: cut v-shaped wedges on the outside of a curve

71. Finishing Seams
Seams need to be finished to prevent fabric edges from fraying or raveling and give a neat appearance
Methods:
Pinked or stitched and pinked: cut with pinking shears
Zigzagged: sew a zigzag stitch close to raw edge
Clean-finished: turn edge of seam allowance under and sew along the folded edge
Bound: use tape strips and stitch through layers
Serged: use a serger on the raw edge

72. Interfacing
A lightweight, woven or nonwoven fabric that is put between layers of garment fabric to prevent stretching and add extra body and shape
Two different types: fusible (use an iron to apply) and sew-in (sew onto the fabric)

73. Facings A piece of fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment
Usually seen at necklines, armholes, and waistlines

74. More Sewing Fundamentals
Chapter 22

75. Hand Sewing
When threading a needle, cut the thread at an angle to make it easier to thread
Then, hold the needle up against a background so you can see through the eye
Insert the thread through the eye and pull it through
Cut the thread at the desired length and knot it

76. Hand Sewing Techniques
Running Stitch: the simplest stitch and is used to sew seams, basting , and gathering. Form a running stitch by making even stitches about ¼ inch long
Hemming Stitch: a slanted stitch used on bound, hemmed, or serged hemmed finishes

77. Cont. Backstitch: durable stitch used to repair seams
Secure thread at the beginning of the seam. Working from right to left, bring the needle through the fabric to the upper side facing you. Then, insert the needle one stitch back, about 1/8 in., behind the previous stitch and bring it out one stitch ahead. Continue until the seam is complete

78. Backstitch

79. Hems Usually the last step in construction The basic steps include:
1. When marking a hem, make sure to wear shoes similar to the ones you will wear with the garment and have someone mark the hem line with chalk or fabric pen.
2. Fold the hem up, matching the seams, and pin it in place. Then, try garment on again.

80. Cont.
3. Using a sewing gauge or ruler, mark the hem width plus 1/4inch on the hem allowance for finishing. Trim away any excess fabric.
4. Once the hem is marked, finish the edge with fusible web, machine stitching, or hand stitching using a slip stitch or hemming stitch.

81. Closures Buttons and Buttonholes
Two types of buttons: sew-through and shank buttons
Sew-through buttons are buttons that have two or four holes in it
Shank buttons are buttons that have a built-in shank, or loop, on the back (don’t have holes)

82. To Sew a Button Sew-through button:
1. Secure the thread to the underside of the garment at the button location. Then, bring the needle up through the fabric and one hole of the button. Lay a toothpick or a large pin on top of the button between the holes. Bring the needle over the toothpick and down through the second hole. Do this several more times.

84. Cont.
2. End stitches with the needle and thread under the button between the button and the garment. Remove the toothpick or pin, and wind the thread several times around the thread UNDER the button to create the thread shank. Push the needle through the underside of the fabric and secure it.

85. Cont.
Shank button:
1. Secure the thread to the underside of the fabric at the button location. Sew a shank button in place with several small stitches through the shank and into the fabric. Secure the thread to the underside of the fabric.