1. Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails
Module 28

2. Editor’s note
All artificial nail enhancements products are based on ingredients from the acrylic family
Sub-branch called “methacrylate”
Two-part liquid and powder enhancement systems
“Acrylic” – general term for large group of ingredients

3. Liquid and powder artificial nail enhancements products based on the methacrylate subcategory
Two-part liquid and powder enhancement system referred to as acrylic (methacrylate) nails

4. Introduction
Acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements created by combining:
monomer liquid
polymer powder
Liquid and powder system

5. Monomer “Mono” means “one” “Mer” stands for “units”
Monomer is one unit called a “molecule”

6. Polymer “Poly” means “many “Mer” stands for “units”
Polymer means “many units” or “many molecules”

7. “liquid and Powder Nail Enhancements”
Applied three basic ways
Natural nail as protective overlay
Over nail tip
Sculpted to extend natural nail using a flexible form
Natural hair brush best to apply products
Sable is best

8. Brush immersed in monomer liquid
Natural hair bristles absorb and hold monomer like a reservoir
Tip of brush touched to surface of dry polymer powder

9. Monomer absorbs polymer – small bead is formed
Bead is carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with brush
Liquid is usually made from ethyl methacrylate monomer
Can contain other monomers used as customizing additives

10. Polymer powder is also made ethyl methacrylate monomer
Polymer powder is made using a special chemical reaction called polymerization
Process
Trillions of monomers linked together to create long chains
Long chains create tiny beads of polymer used to create certain types of artificial nails

11. Special additives blended into both liquid and powder
Ensure complete set or cure
Maximum durability
Color stability
Shelf life
Liquid is picked up by brush and mixed with the powder
Bead forms on the end of brush and quickly hardens
To happen special additives called catalysts

12. Energizes and activates the initiators
Catalyst
Additive designed to speed up chemical reactions
Added to monomer liquid
Used to control the set or curing time
Monomer liquid and polymer powder combined the catalyst helps control the set-up or hardening time
Energizes and activates the initiators
Initiators start a chain reaction that leads to the creation of fantastically long polymer chains

13. Polymerization process begins the second the liquid in the brush picks up powder from the container and forms a bead
Dominos

14. Initiator Added to polymer is called benzoyl peroxide (BPO)
Over the counter acne medicine
Different purpose in nail enhancements
BPO used to start chain reaction that leads to curing (hardening)

15. Some monomers require more BPO than others
Use polymer powder designed for use with monomer liquid
Using wrong powder can create enhancements that are not properly cured
Could increase risk of client developing skin sensitivity or irritation

16. Acrylic (methacrylate) Nail Enhancements using forms
Polymer powders
Many colors
Basic pink
White
Clear
Natural

17. Customized colors – blended
Used alone
Customized colors – blended
Shades of pink
Match or enhance nail beds
Bold primaries
Pastels
Wide range of designs and patterns

18. Supplies for acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements
Acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements created by combining acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid with polymer powder
Acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid
Here’s a tip pp 753 / 901

19. Mix ratio
Amount of monomer liquid and polymer powder used to create a bead
“Dry Bead”
Equal amounts of liquid and powder
“Wet Bead”
Twice as much liquid as powder
“Medium Bead”
50% more liquid than powder
Ideal mix ratio

20. Typically ensures proper set and maximum durability of enhancements
Too much powder
Brittleness
discoloration
Too little powder
Weak
Risk developing skin irritation and sensitivity

21. Acrylic (methacrylate) polymer powder
Choose color depends on methods used

22. Nail dehydrator Apply liberally to natural nail plate only
Avoid skin contact
Remove surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil
Both can block adhesion
Here’s a tip pp 753

23. Nail primer Acid-based primers (methacrylic acid)
Corrosive to skin
Potentially dangerous to eyes
Not used much nowadays
“Acid free” and “nonacid” primer developed in wide use today
Caution box pp 754
Read mfg directions
Refer to MSDS for safe handling recommendations and instructions

24. Acid-based primers Relatively dry brush Using a light dotting action
Carefully dab the brush tip to center of properly prepared nail
Primer will spread out and cover nail plate
Avoid product running into skin
Causing burns/injuries
Read mfg. suggested use and precautions

25. Non-acid and acid-free nail primers
Slightly damp brush
Ensure nail plate is completely covered
Avoid too much product
Running onto skin
Causing skin irritation/sensitivity
Treat 2 -3 nails before dipping back into container
Read mfg suggested application procedures and precautions

26. abrasives Medium grit Fine grit 3 way buffer 180 – 240
Natural nail prep and shaping
Smoothing
Fine grit
350 or higher
buffing
3 way buffer
Create shine for no polish

27. Acrylics can take 24 – 48 hours till peak strength
Coarser grit
Lower grit
Avoid using
Can damaged fresh nail enhancement
Acrylics can take 24 – 48 hours till peak strength

28. Nail Forms Placed under free edge
Used to extend nail enhancements beyond fingertip
Creates additional strength
Extra boxes on PP

34. Nail tips
Pre-formed extensions
Wide variety
Shapes
Styles
colors

35. Nail Adhesive Cyanoacrylate monomers
Each types uses different customized additives to enhance
Set times
Strength
Other properties
Small size bottle
Short shelf life
6 months after date of purchase
Depends on storage and usage

36. Obtain maximum shelf life
Close cap securely
Set upright
Store out of direct sunlight
Room temperature - 60º - 85º
Nail adhesive may harden in tube and need to be thrown away

37. Dappen dish Poured into special holder
Monomer
Polymer
Small narrow openings – minimize evaporation
Do not use open-mouthed jars or containers with large openings
Must be covered with a tightly fitting lid when not in use

38. NEVER pour unused portion back into original container
contaminated
Avoid skin contact with monomer to avoid skin sensitivity or irritation
Wipe clean with acetone
Store in a dust free location

39. Nail Brush
Sable hair
Synthetic/less expensive brushes do not pick up monomer or do not release liquid properly
Avoid overly large brushes –
Hold excessive amount of liquid
Risk touching client’s skin with monomer
May increase risk of developing skin irritation or sensitivities

40. Safety eyewear
Protect eyes from flying objects
Accidental splashes

41. Dust masks and protective gloves
Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation off excessive amounts of dust
Provide NO protection from vapors
Gloves

42. Acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements pre-service
Complete pre-service sanitation and disinfection procedure (ch. 25, pp 672/817)
Wash implements
Rinse implements
Immerse implements
Wash hands with liquid soap
Rinse and dry implements
Set up standard manicuring table

43. Greet client and direct to wash hands with liquid soap and warm water
Perform client consultation

44. Application of acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements using forms
Pages 757 – 761
FYI pp 762
Pages

45. acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements post-service
Make another appointment
Take-home product recommendation
Clean up around table
Clean brush
Store acrylic products
Discard used materials
Clean table - clean and disinfect implements and multiuse tools

46. acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements over nail tips or natural nails
Pages 763 – 766
Caution box pp 766
Pages –

47. Maintenance and removal of acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements
Regular maintenance prevents nail enhancements from lifting or cracking
If lifting/breaking greater risk of infection and other problems
Full and proper rebalance must be performed every 2 – 3 weeks

48. rebalancing
Method for maintaining the beauty, durability, and longevity of artificial nail enhancements
Do not let clients go too long without proper rebalance - more repairs
Nail is thinned down –apex of nail removed – entire nail enhancement reduced in thickness
Procedure pages 768 – 769 /
Caution box page 769 / 917

49. Crack repair Addition of enhancement product to repair cracks
Similar procedure to rebalance
Procedures – page 770 /

50. removal Perform as soon as possible after request is made
Procedure pp
Condition surrounding skin with nail oil/lotion

51. Odorless acrylic (methacrylate) products
Same chemistry as all other monomer liquid and polymer powder
Instead of using ethyl acrylic (methacrylate) – rely on monomers with little odor
Must be used with a dry ix ratio
Equal parts liquid to powder in bead
If too wet – skin irritation /sensitivity
“snowy – appearing” bead on brush
Lift brush and tap gently to remove excess powder

52. Never rewet the brush with monomer
Will dilute the enhancement product already placed on nail
Create wrong mix ratio
Odorless harder more slowly
Creates tacky layer - “inhibition” layer
After hardening – remove using alcohol, acetone or mfg. product
Can be filed away
Avoid skin contact

53. Colored acrylic (methacrylate) powders
Limited only by your imagination
Maintain recipe cards so they can be reproduced
Create customized nail enhancements
Pay a few dollars more for the special service