1. Facial and body cosmetic massage
Dr. Sintija Strautiņa- Strēle,
Linda Zeltiņa
CIDESCO International Riga School of Cosmetics
November 24,2011

2. Massage
Massein (from Greek language) – to press with a hand, to knead.
Massage is a measured mechanical effect to a patient’s/client’s body with a therapeutic, cosmetic and relaxing impact.

3. History
Massage is one of the most ancient ways of treatment. Already for ages in various cultures it has been used for strengthening of human physical and mental health.
The origins of the most ancient massage can be tracked in China in year 2698 b.c., there were medical schools and schools of gymnastics, where doctors gained the necessary knowledge of massage
The basics of contemporary massage were established by Peter Ling
( ).

4. Massage is performed with:
hands
feet
apparatus
water
special brushes
cold
stones
etc.

5. Massage is having effect :
Physiologically. Massage is having effect to a human body as a mechanic irritant.
Psychologically. Major part of the clients perceive massage as a pleasant touch giving a sensual feeling of comfort and relaxation helping to appraise one’s body.

6. Physiological effect of massage
Humoral- mechanically and directly affecting the tissues a formation of histamine, acetilholine and other biologically active substances is favoured
Neuro-reflective- mechanical irritation is perceived by the receptor apparatus in skin, muscles, tendons, cords and internal organs transforming the mechanical energy in a buck fever energy. Flow of impulses from afferent nerves reach the cerebral cortices and thereby induces reflector response reactions of the skin, muscles and internal organs.
Mechanical- tissues are compressed and moved thereby inducing an acceleration of intercellular fluid, lymph flow and blood circulation.

7. Completion of Client’s body analysis and assessment sheet
Name, surname
Date of birth
Address, phone number
Medicine taken
Contraindication:
Acute skin diseases
High or low blood-pressure
Varicose veins
Recent operation
Pregnancy
Heart diseases
Epilepsy
Diabetes
Haematomas
Skin bruises

8. Completion of Client’s body analysis and assessment sheet
Occupation
Assessment of muscle tonus
Posture assessment
Skin condition
Cellulites
Fat deposits
Stretch marks
Weight, length, body mass index
Selection of massage zone- massage performed at a particular area of the body or a massage for the whole body
Recommendation for body treatment at home and at the beauty saloon

9. Constitutional types of the body
Ectomorph
Mesomorph
Endomorph

10. Celullite
Aesthetic, cosmetic defect that visually looks as an “orange peel”- a dimpled appearance of the skin.

11. Localised areas of cellulite
Hips
Buttocks
Thighs
Upper arms
Abdomen

12. Stages of cellulite 1st stage
Lymphostasis in subcutaneous adipose tissues. Skin is even, smooth without any changes in color. It takes longer time to heal hematomas and skin bruises. For diagnosing it is recommended to use thermographic films.

13. Stages of cellulite 2nd stage
Chronic lymph stasis, venous stasis. Alterations of skin relief. Dimples are more apparent at muscle tension. When touching, a lower skin temperature is observed.

14. Stages of cellulite 3rd stage
Chronic lymph stasis, venous stasis, a deteriorated microcirculation. Local to a diffuse fibrosis in the subcutaneous fat layer - micronodules, which can be palpated. Skin is dimpled and looks like an “orange peel”. Skin is cold by touch. When pressing on separate thickening areas, one has painful sensations.

15. Stages of cellulite 4th stage
Cellulite is apparant also at relaxed muscles. Micronodules are integrated in macronodules. Due to the microcirculatory disorders, the skin in the areas affected by cellulite is cold with a bluish tone. When pressing, one has painful feelings. Macronodules are also called as cellulite stones.

16. Posture deviations
Scoliosis
Lordosis
Kyphosis

17. Indications Preventive measures for all healthy humans!
Skin and muscle trophic disturbances
Celullite
Abatement of oedema
Hypertensic, painful muscles
Local fat deposits, obesity

18. Contraindications:
Bad overall health condition-heart, kidneys and liver failure, fever, acute respiratory diseases, tonsillitis, sickness, vomiting,
Malignant diseases
Acute skin diseases
Dermal mycosis, furunculosis, nettle-rash, angioneurotic oedema,
Lymphadenitis
Joint inflammation
Thrombophlebitis, thrombosis
Blood diseases
Chronic osteomyelitis
Acute pain
Hematoma, acute injuries
Acute ulcer stages
Uterine hemorrhage
Acute gynecological adnexitis
Psychic disorders
Pregnancy

19. Topographical anatomy of the back
Bones
Muscles
Blood-vessels, lymph nodes
Nerves

20. Topographical anatomy of the arm
Bones
Muscles
Blood vessels, lymph nodes
Nerves

21. Topographical anatomy of the pelvis and leg
Bones
Muscles
Blood vessels, lymph nodes
Nerves

22. Topographical anatomy of the abdomen
Muscles
Blood vessels, lymph nodes
Nerves
Internal organs

23. Topographical anatomy of the chest
Bones
Muscles
Blood vessels, lymph nodes
Nerves
Internal organs

24. Effects of massage
To nervous system ( coordinates an integrated activity of all vital functions of the human body):
Reduces activity of sympathetic nervous system
Reduces fatigue, stress and increases the mental work abilities
Improves the transmission of nerve impulse processes.
Heart-blood vessel systems:
Blood flows from the internal organs to skin and muscles
Expand peripheral blood vessels
Improve blood supply to tissues and accelerate capillary blood circulation
Affect the tissue trophicity processes
Facilitate and accelerate venous blood circulation
Facilitate heart work and improve blood supply to cardiac muscle
Reduce blood pressure and decelerate heart rate

25. Effects of massage Lymphatic system:
Speed of the lymph flow in largest lymphatic vessels is four mm/sec. Through the thoracic duct ( ductus thoracicus) all the lymph flows through only six times in twenty-four-hours
Massage empties cells from the end-products of metabolism, reduces lymph stasis and oedema.
Muscle system:
Affects the blood and lymph flow in muscles
Enhances elimination of lactic acid
Restores muscle capacity two to four times (the number of active capillaries increases in muscles). In1mm² of the cross- section of muscles there are opened and functioning 1400 of capillaries
Increases or reduces muscle tone
Most effective are kneading techniques ( petrissage)

26. Effects of massage Joint and ligament system:
Increases elasticity and agility of ligaments
Influences blood and lymph flow in bones and joints.
Most effectively works with friction.
Skin:
Purifies the skin from dead horny cells
Improves blood supply to tissues, increases skin temperature
Affects the venous and lymph flow, decreases oedemas
Improves skin and subcutaneous tissue trophicity
Enhances the activity of sweat and sebaceous glands

27. Effects of massage Respiratory system-
Reduces the frequency of breathing,
Increases the oxygen intake and the carbon dioxide elimination,
Improves the blood and lymph flow in respiratory organs and muscles
Enhances expectoration
Digestive system-
Improves small intestine peristalsis,
Stimulates blood and lymph flow, thereby improving the absorption of nutrients.
Increases secretion of bile
Internal organs are most effectively affected by vibration techniques of massage.

28. Effects of massage Urogenital system- Endocrine system-
Increases the elaboration of urine, mineral salts, urea and uric acid.
Endocrine system-
Improves blood, lymph circulation, activates functional activity of internal secretion glands. Improves self-comfort.

29. Requirements to cosmetician at performance of massage :
Clothes: in a white color, with short sleeves, comfortable, neat, well ironed
Hands: manicured, without nail varnish, short nails
Hair: clean, not falling onto eyes and face during the procedure
Make-up: a light day make-up
Footwear: light, comfortable, neat, on a low heal or without, not making noise
Bijouterie: no bijouterie( also no wedding ring), an exception can be small earrings)
Perfume: no perfume

30. Hand training

31. Necessary materials and conditions for performance of massage:
Couch
Chair
Towels of various sizes
Towels for compresses/ gloves
Movable table
Small pallets of various sizes
Skin disinfection liquid
Skin cleansing lotions (body peeling)
Massage creams and oils
Body masks, creams and lotions
Disposable panties
Auxiliary materials- napkins, spatulas, etc..
Clock
Temperature at premises may not be lower than 20-22°C.
Premises shall be painted in warm tones, filled with pleasant aroma and enjoyable music

33. Preparation of the client for a massage
Client’s analysis and assessment sheet shall be filled in
Clothes shall be taken off ( disposable panties)
Bijouterie shall be taken off
Selection of massage pose
For performance of the back massage , hair band shall be used
Placement of the massage bolsters, depending of the chosen pose

34. Placement of massage bolsters
When lying on back
Massage bolster is placed under the neck curve ( not obligatory)
Placed under the knees – straighten out back/neck /waist, hips and knee joint are placed in a physiological position
When lying on belly
Massage bolster is placed under the feet joints.
When massaging the back, the bolster may be placed under the belly.
Neck and head massage is performed on a special chair

35. Preparation of the client for a massage
Cleansing of the skin
Application of the massage oil or cream

36. Massage oils and lotions
Massage cream
Massage oil
Talc powder
Massage gel

37. Posture of cosmetician

38. 5 basic techniques/methods of massage
Stroking ( effleurage)
Friction
Kneading( petrissage)
Percussion ( tapotement)
Vibration

39. Massage techniques
Techniques of classical massage are performed in a prescribed sequence and manner, that are related to the intensity of action and the depth.
Stroking- friction- kneading- percussion- vibration

40. Stroking( effleurage)
Hand of the masseur is gliding over the skin without shirring it
This is the initial technique of the massage, also performed in between the other techniques and at the end of massage. The emphasis is put on the middle part of the stroking.
Stroking
Comprehensive
Flat
Sublimis
Deep
Simultaneous
Alternately
Continuous
Interrupted

41. Rules:
When performing stroking, palms of the hands should fit tight to the client’s skin
There should be no space between the palm and the skin
Hands should be relaxed
Stroking shall be performed gently, smoothly and slowly in a direction of lymph flow-to the nearest lymph node areas

42. Effect of the stroking:
To get introduced to the client’s body
Exfoliation of epidermis
Improves blood provision to the skin
Improves venous and lymph flow, reduces oedema
Relaxes skeleton muscles

43. Friction A massage technique pushing aside the skin
Performed by fingers and palms

44. Effect of friction :
Increases supply of blood and lymph to the massage area- a warming effect
Loosening cicatrices
Anesthetic
Prepares the skin for the other massage techniques
Improves the agility of joints

45. Kneading ( petrissage)
Effect on muscles
Muscle shall be taken in hands, pressed on, lifted upwards and put in the initial position
Longitudinal kneading- longitudinally cross the muscle fibres
Cross-kneading – cross over the muscle fibres

46. Effect of the kneading:
Induces muscle hyperemia
Enhances elimination of metabolic end-products from muscles- restores muscle performance (reduces acidosis)
Improves muscle performance(muscular endurance, strength, elasticity)

47. Percussion (Tapotement)
- Very intense effect, increases blood pressure, improves blood circulation, lymph flow, improves muscle tone
Performed with palms of the hands, finger tips
Rules:
Shall not be applied if muscles are overworked, exhausted and crampy
Arm wrists shall be relaxed
Shall not be performed on neck, heart area, kidney area, abdomen, spinal cord, joints

48. Vibration
a relaxing effect (reducing muscle tension)

49. Vibration
Vibration possesses a particular reflectory and relaxing efffect
Heart rate is slowed down
Reflectory effect to internal organs- normalizes the secretory and motor functions of internal organs

50. Sequence of overall massage
Back
Backs of the legs
Front of the legs
Abdomen
Chest
Arms

51. Length of massage depends on the scheme of techniques and areas of treatment -20-60-90 minutes.
Course of treatment times a week, treatment course up to 10 visits.

52. Topographical anatomy of face
Bones
Muscles
Blood vessels, lymph nodes
Nerves

53. Facial skin types
Dry
Oily
Combined
Normal

54. Cosmetic facial classical massage
Massage areas:
face;
neck;
decollete area.
Massage length: 20 min

55. Indications: Improvement of micorcirculation;
Enhancement of venous flow;
Improvement of facial muscles tone;
Toning up and correction of facial oval;
Smoothing of small, sublime wrinkles;
Relaxation of client;
Secondary – nutritioning of facial skin, moisturising;
Recommended as prophylactic for clients aged

56. Preparation of facial, neck and décolleté area skin :
Cleansing of facial, neck and decollete area skin;
Application of a hot compress ;
Peeling;
Application of vaposone steamer prior to massage.

57. Preconditions to be observed prior and during the massage :
Creation of comfortable and pleasant environment during the massage treatment (premises, decorations, pleasant music, lighting, air temperature);
Avoidance of discussions with the client during the procedure;
Selection of correct and suitable massage oil or cream;
Precise observance of Langer’s lines and fixation places;
Intensity of massage movements dependence on the skin type and condition

58. Contraindications: Purulent efflorescence;
Dermatitis, eczemas, psoriasis (only with a permission of a physician );
Enlarged lymph nodes;
Herpes;
Acute respiratory diseases;
Recent visit to the dentist;
Cerebral commotion(up to 6 months);
Dizziness;
Dynamic blood circulation disturbances
Neo growths on face(oncology);
Infectious eye diseases;
Allergic reactions to the massage oil or cream.

59. Basic principles to be observed during a massage
Massage shall be performed slowly;
Langer’s lines shall be observed;
Hands shall not be taken off the face, neck or décolleté area during the massage;
Massage movements shall not be applied in the area of thyroid gland;
Joining movements that are performed against the Langer’s lines shall be worked in a gentle manner without moving the skin aside;
Fixation places are performed in a precise manner;
Hand movements are gentle and plastic, fitting close to the face;
Time anticipated for the massage shall be observed – 20 minutes ( together with the décolleté area);
The applied massage oil or cream shall be enough during all the treatment procedure.

60. Short summary Massage is among the most ancient medical therapies.
For prophylactic purposes, massage is recommended to any healthy individual
Massage has an effect on all organ systems of a human body.
Classic massage has five basic stroke techniques (four according to alternative classifications). The strokes should be applied in a definite sequence dictated by the intensity and depth of their effect.
The duration of a massage depends on the selected combination of techniques, the number of treatment areas and may be minutes.
Recommendable times per week, up to 10 times in the massage therapy cycle.
Classical facial cosmetic massage is applied to the face, neck and decolette area and lasts 20 minutes.
The facial massage cycle consists of treatments 1-2 times per week; the cycle to be repeated after 2 months. 

61. Thank you for your attention!