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Modifications to the Lionel 0-6-0t Switcher

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Presentation on theme: "Modifications to the Lionel 0-6-0t Switcher"— Presentation transcript:

1 Modifications to the Lionel 0-6-0t Switcher
By Joe Foehrkolb Baldwin Forge & Machine Baldwin, Maryland

2 The Lionel 0-6-0t Lionel introduced their new 0-6-0t tank engine in mid-2004 and after examining it at the Fall TCA meet in York, I purchased one with the idea of converting it to 2 rail scale operation. The following photos and text describe and show what I have done to this model to make it into a unique little steam era switcher for a scale 2 rail layout.

3 Lionel Electronics I removed all of the Lionel electronics as well as the smoke piston and gear from my model. The engine only smoked when it was moving fast and the loco seemed to bind at times in reverse with the smoke piston connected so…I removed the smoke piston. You can sell the electronics and parts to a Lionel repairman and recoup some of the cost of the engine!

4 Drivers The first job I tackled was replacing the Lionel 3 rail drivers with a new set of 48” drivers utilizing lost wax brass driver castings from Precision Scale Co, (PSC) Drivers were machined in my shop with 12L17 alloy steel tires. The Lionel axles were hardened so I made new axles from 5/32” drill rod. The Lionel axle bearings and worm gear were retained.

5 Rods and Crankpins The Lionel side and main rods were kept on the model but I installed new crankpins machined from 1/8” drill rod in the driver castings. The Lionel crankpin screws had oversized hex heads and I decided to do away with them. I think the smaller 0-80 crankpin screws look better. You may have to ream the Lionel rods slightly to accept the 1/8 crankpins if you use 1/8” rod as I did.

6 Basic Loco w/ PSC 48” Drivers

7 Rods with New Crankpins

8 Electrical Pickups I made my electrical pickups for the insulated tires on the left side of the loco by drilling 1/4” brass bar stock and inserting Kadee coupler springs and small brass plungers to contact the driver tires. The brass bar is insulated from the frame with thick fish paper. A 2-56 nylon screw holds the front pickup in place. The double rear pickup attaches to the original 3rd rail shoe pickup point that is already insulated.

9 Electrical Pickups A 1/16” brass rod connects the front and rear pickup blocks and is held in place with 0-80 flat head screws. I made a small socket from a piece of brass tube and heat shrink tubing that fits over the 1/16” rod and connects via a short piece of wire through one of the original speaker holes to the left side motor brush.

10 2 Rail Pick Ups

11 Wiring Plug to Motor

12 Brake Cylinders The Lionel frame casting has brake cylinders in relief cast into its sides below the locomotive cab. I decided to mill these low relief details off and replace them with PSC loco brake cylinder and clevises, The clevis hanger was made from 3/16” square brass stock and screwed to the frame with 0-80 screws utilizing two of the holes in the frame where the sound speaker was.

13 Brake Shoes Brake shoes were made up from some old Kemtron (now PSC) brass castings and hangers formed from 1/32” x 3/32” Special Shapes flat stock. They are attached to the frame between the drivers with x 1/4” long hex head screws. A small tubular spacer about inches long keeps the hanger and shoe at the right location on the driver.

14 PSC Brake Cylinder & Shoes

15 Rear Foot Boards Because of the Lionel hi-rail coupler swing, Lionel omitted foot boards on the rear of the loco. I made mine up using some Detail Associates flat brass stock. I pinned the foot boards to the model with tiny brass brads sold by a doll house supplier called the Houseworks. Drill a No 71 hole and drive the pins in! Add a drop of super glue and you have a permanent joint.

16 Rear Foot Boards

17 Kadee Couplers There is plenty of room to attach Kadee couplers to the front and rear of this model. I used Kadee 804s on this engine to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit when coupling to a metal car with metal wheelsets. If you leave the top plate off of the Kadee box, the coupler height is just about perfect when mounted.

18 Whistle & Sand Dome Lids
I changed the Lionel whistle to a Kemtron whistle with lever and added a 0.008” brass bell rope. A small handrail stanchion was added to the rear sand dome to support the rope. The sand domes were drilled 1/16” in the center of their tops, flattened with a file, and brass lids, turned on the lathe were glued in place. The little handles on the lids are brass pins from Houseworks.

19 Safety Valves I also added two safety (pop) valves to the top of the steam dome. These were brass turnings from All Nation (now Babbitt).

20 Whistle. Pops & Dome Lids

21 Air Pump, Governor & Piping
A single stage air pump, pump governor and cooling piping with brackets were added to the left side of the smokebox. All of the castings are available from PSC.

22 Air Pump & Fittings

23 Headlight & Steam Generator
I removed the original Lionel oil headlight with a razor saw and installed a new headlight bracket, headlight and steam generator in its place. This change does a lot to alter the appearance of this model. Numbers on front of the smokebox plate are photo engravings by Wilbur Epperly.

24 Headlight, Generator & Numbers

25 The Finished (almost) Loco

26 Conclusion I hope this presentation inspires you to try your hand at modifying one of these little locos. I would be happy to assist you with any machine work required to accomplish this conversion but encourage you to do the detailing yourself and create your own unique model…HAVE FUN!

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